rockitgirl said:
What is it that stylists look for? I would imagine that the pieces that are sent need to be maybe a bit more overthetop than the pieces that would sell in a store because if they're to be used in pictures they need to solicit the right mood.
True, most of the time we are looking for things that will really "pop" in the photos. I use dresses by one local designer that would make Cavalli blush but they look
good in the pictures. Transparent fabric is good--chiffons, tulle, netting, lace, etc. Volume and larger than normal touches (extra big collars, cuffs, etc.) are also a plus with some photographers. That said, more simple, easy pieces can also be nice, it all depends on the story. Right now I'm really into body skimming pieces.
rockitgirl said:
And when someone contacts you first do you want pictures to choose from or do you want the garments just sent to you at the designers descretion?
Send a query email to stylists you'd like to supply, along with low-res photos of your pieces. If you can get ahold of a dress form, just shoot the pieces on that. Pants can be pinned to the front of the form if it has a pole through the bottom. Don't send actual pieces until you know that the stylist is interested or you'll be wasting postage and might not get your work back.
rockitgirl said:
What types of terms are commonly negotiated and what could a new designer do that would put you off and make you not want to work with them?
You want a contract in writing with the stylist's signature agreeing to send the pieces back by a certain date. Agree on who will pay for postage as well. The stylist can't promise you exposure. Even if he/she shoots the pieces for a certain mag, the editor always gets final choice over what images/stories are accepted. Be reasonable even if your pieces don't get coverage right away. If you're donating the pieces, ask the stylist where he/she expects to use them (e.g. on celebs at events, for fashion shoots, etc.) and in what countries the coverage will be broadcast. No sense in sending your pieces to China if you don't have distribution or a local PR contact there, y'know? That said, it never hurts to just have a few lovely tear sheets (examples of your work shown in a magazine, literally the pages torn out of the issue) in your portfolio. Your local clients will stand up and take notice if a stylist gets your pieces placed in Vogue, even if it's Vogue Greece.
I look for designers who are easy going to work with. I've had some bad run-ins with a bitchy one who told me in her showroom, "Do whatever your want with my pieces, they're like sculpture, you can use them any direction you please," while throwing them on the floor but come the day of the shooting she showed up and freaked out that one strap had slipped off the hanger and made all the models change their pieces to reflect exactly the way that she had personally envisioned them. Which was ugly by the way. In the end the photographer and I waited until she left, re-shot everything and those are the photos that the magazines are interested in.
So I guess what I personally look for is a designer who is communicative, timely with their deliveries, and who doesn't show up on my shoot and style everything herself.
Hope this helps!