I thought this was a really interesting article about shopping and luxury brands in Russia and their move away from head to toe designer dressing. It starts off talking about the designers behind Kova & T and then moves on. From Sunday 13/01/08 Guardian.
Meet Dasha Zhukova. Young, gorgeous, ridiculously wealthy in her own right (thanks to her father's massive fortune) and the girlfriend of one of the wealthiest men in the world, the owner of Chelsea FC, Roman Abramovich. Zhukova, 26, is something else, too: a major force in the fashion world. Her label, Kova & T, sells in over 70 stores around the world and Zhukova rides the vanguard of a new style revolution - post-Soviet glamazons with a mission to prove that Russians are the biggest and best luxury consumers on the planet.
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Russians don't do things by halves. In the mid-1990s Russia's nouveaux riches gained a reputation for their fascination with diamonds, logos and head-to-toe 'total-look' designer dressing. Fast forward a decade: sick and tired of its vulgar reputation, Russia's elite wants a makeover. Tom Ford approves. 'Russia is a country with a long history for a great appreciation of luxury and in a sense it's just been put away for a while,' he said recently. 'It is something that's in the hard drive of Russian people, in the same way that it is for Italians.'
So Russian style is being redefined and Dasha Zhukova is leading the backlash against post-Soviet flashiness. Her label (the Kova is from Zhukova, the T is from Dasha's design partner, Kristina Tang) is the 'casual luxury' brand that took the US by storm in 2006. It went on sale here, at Harvey Nichols, at the end of last year.
Zhukova is proud to be Russian but is adamant that she's 'not a stereotypical Russian living in London' - because that's still a negative, vulgar thing to be. Based in London, but constantly travelling through Miami, LA, New York, Paris and Moscow, she speaks perfect English with a transatlantic drawl. 'Moscow is in a state where it's transforming from the overly put-together look to something a bit more casual,' she says. 'That's why my line has done so well in Russia. People just want to wear a T-shirt and a pair of jeans instead of buying the whole look from Gucci's latest collection.'
Zhukova is typical of a new breed of international young Russian entrepreneurs. She has power and influence and a celebrity draw: Camilla Fayed is a friend, Drew Barrymore and the Olsen twins are devotees of her clothing line, Razorlight played at her latest party. She left the USSR in 1990 at the age of nine when her mother Elena, a microbiologist, was offered a job at UCLA in Los Angeles. Her parents split when she was three. Her billionaire father Alexander Zhukov, an associate of Abramovich, continued to manage his property empire between London and Moscow. At school in California, Zhukova met Kristina Tang, daughter of the Shanghai Tang mogul, David Tang, and her future business partner. The pair launched Kova & T in 2005. The label - which includes jeans, T-shirts, miniskirts, leather shorts and strapless dresses - was picked up by more than 50 stores in the US, including Henri Bendel in New York. Last November Kova & T launched in London and will be stocked by Harrods from this coming May.
Zhukova fell into fashion by accident: 'It was the summer after I graduated from university in the US and I started spending time in Russia. The idea for Kova & T came as a result of us doing a charity fashion show in Moscow in 2003. We were trying to find a "clean" pair of jeans we could embellish. We couldn't find any jeans without a very big logo. Once we got into the process it turned out to be very complicated so we thought, "Why don't we try to sell this?"' Dasha Skinny jeans at £100 are a sell-out in Moscow and Kova & T's £80 black leggings have already been re-ordered at Harvey Nichols.
Zhukova has replaced rags-to-riches supermodel Natalia Vodianova as every Russian girl's fashion idol. 'Lots of young girls come in and say, "We just want to look like Dasha",' says Moscow's boutique queen Aizel Trudel, 29. These girls are desperate to feature on Moscow's best-dressed list, alongside such women as Lidia Aleksandrova, the owner of several designer stores, with a penchant for Lanvin and Alexander McQueen; fitness diva Olga Sloutsker, who runs a chain of gyms; Gorbachev's socialite daughter Irina Virganskaya and granddaughter Ksenya; and Polina Deripaska, wife of £8 billion aluminium baron Oleg Deripaska. A new arrival on the scene is Svetlana Medvedeva, Russia's first lady-in-waiting (husband Dmitry is tipped to win the presidential election in March). Medvedeva is a close friend of society designer Valentin Yudashkin and an ardent supporter of flamboyant Russian haute couture.
Many young Russian girls dream of becoming socialites, oligarchs' wives or fashion designers. Kira Plastinina has achieved two of these three ambitions - but at 15 she is a bit young to be married. Her father Sergei Plastinin owns Russia's biggest dairy and juice company and has amassed a fortune of £350 million. Plastinina - dubbed the leading light of the new 'spoilt bratski' generation - opened a chain of shops last year with a gift of £50 million from her father. She is now the official designer for the hugely popular TV show, Star Factory, Russia's X Factor.
With prices from around £50, Kira Plastinina's clothes are aimed at the burgeoning middle class, who shop in Moscow's evolving high street at branches of Topshop, Mango and Zara. Obviously, most of Russia is poor: the average salary is £6,500 a year, according to Russian state figures, but a growing number of young people in the capital earn far more than this. (According to the World Bank, real incomes in Russia have grown by 65 per cent in the past 10 years - but they put the average national income at closer to £2,000.) Young Moscow, however, has a high disposable income: £20,000 a year is considered a respectable salary for a young middle-class professional in their 20s or 30s. Those working for international companies will earn far more. In real terms a salary like this in Moscow goes further than a Western salary of the same amount because many families still own property from the Soviet era and don't pay rent or mortgages.
In this climate Kira Plastinina already sells over 40,000 items a month in her 15 Moscow stores and outlets in 12 other cities across Russia. Her father recently paid Paris Hilton £1 million to attend his daughter's Moscow catwalk show. The company now has its eye on the US and has been watching the progress of Kova & T across the globe with interest.
Meanwhile, in Moscow's shopping malls, Russia's love affair with luxury expands beyond all expectations. 'Until 1997 there was hardly anyone to build a business on,' says Olga Mamonova, vice president of JamilCo, which runs Hermès, Burberry, Ferragamo, Chaumet and Escada in Russia. 'Then our client base was in the hundreds. Now it's in the thousands. But it's not just about money. To buy an Hermès scarf you don't need to be a millionaire. You just need to understand that it is a beautiful thing to own. That is real luxury. Not the price of the item.'
Mamonova is a feisty, beautifully groomed 46-year-old single mother of a 25-year-old daughter and a six-year-old son. She is elegant and understated in a black Burberry tunic dress and fringed cashmere Hermès coat. Over tea in Moscow's Hermès store (served on Hermès china), she explains that she was an English teacher in the Soviet era. Her golden opportunity came when she was approached by a businessman who wanted to set up a consultancy with international connections and needed her language skills. 'Doctors and teachers were working in retail, selling things. My generation was lucky - we were old enough to have specialist knowledge that was in demand but not too old to change our mentality. You could sit and do nothing and wait for someone to do something for you. Or you could do something for yourself. It is not in my character to sit and wait.' The company morphed into Russia's first importer of Levi's. 'I was just in the right place at the right time. As far as the state was concerned, two or three kinds of bread was enough choice for everyone. No one knew what "brands" were. Levi's were too expensive for the state and didn't correspond to their priorities. They were not interested in stupid things like jeans.' Mamonova's company's experience during perestroika with Levi's and Swatch meant that the big brand names came to them in the mid-1990s.
While the luxury market is expanding rapidly, so is middle-class interest in more affordable labels. Last month James, one of Moscow's first multi-brand designer stores, owned by Mamonova's company JamilCo, hosted a catwalk show for Levi's Blue. You Nguyen, designer for Levi's Europe, was there: 'There is a misconception that people are into bling-bling here. They're not any more. Before, it was all about adding rhinestones and gold thread - but that is the old market here. Now it's about quality, luxury, craftsmanship. Brand name is not enough for Russians any more.'