Chapurin, From Russia With Love
On the March, 2 the latest fall-winter collection of CHAPURIN was shown in one of the halls of Paris Louvre. There were plenty of geometrical constructions which referenced Japanese art of origami or Russian cub futurism, sharp cut of leather coats and dresses heavily embroidered with ribbons and sparkles. Brutal and dynamic, the new version of Anna Karenina was more about a modern image of really tough and confident woman, rather than the tragic story of Lev Tolstoi. Igor Chapurin, a man behind the label, reinvents the image of Russian (and not only her) woman. Preparing his Moscow show, one of the most successful designers in Russia found some time to share some thoughts on fashion, beauty and Russian roots of his heroine.
I was born in Velikie Luki, a small northern town in the Pskov region. I grew up in an amazing family, where everyone was totally addicted to his work. My grandfather was a leading specialist in flax-pulling. He traveled the whole USSR, opening new flax centres. My mother worked in the textile industry. She started as an ordinary cutter and grew up into a chief of the sewing production in one of the biggest jercey mills. My father supplied equipment for this production. Once he made me leave my sport school for art classes and used to bring me huge volumes on the art history on my every birthday. I’d say my interest in fashion design is the result of being part of this environment, of charms of my family’s atmosphere I lived in.
Once I started my career I have always wanted to inculcate in Russian women a sense of taste, to overcome their hunger for decoration. This period is over now. Lots of Russian women want and know how to look good. They became more confident, more independent. They live in the wicked pace still remembering they are women. Maybe this is why emancipation hasn’t become a new ideology for them. Femininity is very modern now.
I often use furs. That’s very rhythmical and textured material. It emphasizes the silhouette and it works with silks, tweed, lacquered leathers and metallic embellishment. Modern technologies lead to countless possibilities of using furs. Russian women love furs and this love affair has really deep historical roots. I see nothing wrong in that.
It’s very common for our country that a man gets noticed only after he got some recognition on the West. It’s true. My victory at the competition, organized by Nina Ricci in 1992, opened very wide perspectives for me. But I saw my future only in Russia. Maybe it’s that I’ve chosen a thorny path. But our country gives much more than, say, Western Europe. Here you can feel yourself an artist, you can create your own school.
After my success in Paris I was invited to join MaxMara. This was a dream come true for a start of significant career. But I declined the offer because I wanted to feel relevant in my own country.
I believe there are no unbeautiful women. Every single woman can be good-looking and sexy and it’s the designer’s goal to underline her beauty. I got this vision of the typical CHAPURIN woman long time ago, she’s self-confident, she’s ambitious and strong. She wants to be the best and she’s ready to achieve her goals. But at the same time she stays feminine and delicate, she has her own style. I am always inspired by the women who surround me. Olga Slutsker is one of them. She’s really confident, feminine and endlessly talented in everything she does. I love grand dames of fashion, Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Irene Galitzine.
For me ‘luxury’ means quality rather than price. Philosophy of CHAPURIN is a philosophy of perfectionists. What can one consider as a luxury? The answer would be different for different society classes, for different people. There is taste, appropriateness, harmony, I think these are the words which define how a person is dressed. As for the kitsch, I wouldn’t condemn it. It’s just one of the ways to behave which widens a palette of man’s choices, therefore, it makes a man more free. It’s hard to say anything I do is kitschy. There are much more important things for me, such as aesthetic perfection and expressiveness of details.
I consider myself an artist of the new millennium and I create collections not only for Russian clients. I try to change the image of Russia which still exists and contains such negative things as vodka, matrioshka and perestroika. Naturally I am a Russian designer but it’s more about my origins, mentality and culture. It always reflects in the titles of my collections, such as Lolita, Anastasia or Russian Dreams. All of them are connected with the Russian theme, but it is always about reconsidered ideas. I am sure there are some universal laws of life, art, behavior and these are much more important than any particulars and stereotypes. One can be Russian still feeling organic within the international world.
This is the second season we’ve been working with the British stylist, Patti Wilson. She’s endlessly talented person and a real fan of her work. Just before the show she doesn’t allow anyone to relax, paying lots of attention to every single detail. She creates very strong and perfect looks.
Movie, music, theatre, history, - everything can be a source of inspiration. I travel a lot and always search for new images during my trips. One of my latest collections was inspired by the East. I created it after my journey to Jordanian, extremely charismatic and delicate country.
Every year I try to take few breaks. I ski in winter and go to the traditional relaxing sea-trip on summer. It’s the way for me to really have a rest and to free my mind form the problems I have saved up during the year.
History of fashion in Russia is pretty short so there are not much real brands here. It’s frustrating to say, but there is a fashion business while there’s no fashion industry in Russia. Russian market is going really hard way. From the one side there are lots of Fashion weeks, lots of discussions on TV and in glossies. Still Russian business doesn’t believe in the existence of fashion industry therefore nobody wants to invest it. Today fashion industry is built not by businessmen or Government (as in the UK), but by fashion designers. As we all know even local buyers prefer to make orders in the European showrooms. This leaves its mark on our work.
I think of myself as a designer of the 21st century, the Russian designer, still I’m the one who lives in a world that’s changing all the time. This is international world by its spirit and aesthetic principles. I create clothing that allows woman to be different, but to stay herself. I try to build a cult brand which will be successful not only in Russian, but abroad as well. We offer our clients products (clothes, interior) which allow them to feel comfortable, still to express their individuality.
Today I woke up thinking about our Moscow show. I really want it to be as spectacular as the show in Paris. I’m sure my team’s going to make it.
I made the right choice in my life because I do what I love and never regret about what I’ve done. I think it’ll be honest if I say that I’m really happy.
Dress Code Magazine, Ukraine
Igor never dissapoints me 
