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Deleted member 141309
Guest
I may start this by saying that I have always been fascinated by the connections of luxury and fashion, and recently graduated with a published thesis on the topic of dream of luxury, and it made me wondering, in an emotional and non-scientific or statistical sense – is there actual luxury in fashion anymore?
With all the bloggers, handed out pieces, all the advertising and the approaching death of print, I see fashion in fruition, but luxury is having its last breaths. Is digital and overmarketing killing it, transforming it or we just haven't reached the change yet?
I cannot help remembering, when I was a teen, my mother would take me to a high-end boutique and we could spend hours there - flicking through the garments, talking to the SAs, to the store owner, and then we'd be invited to the private area and have speciality desserts and coffee. The last such encounter I had was at Prada back in London, and I only got a coat and a pair of shoes, nothing too crazy or too expensive (quite basic pieces). These days, I admit it, I prefer to shop online - it is more convenient and cheaper (for some reason), they do include presents and cards, and mail, but there is no luxury to it, it is too dry, too cold.
While Vogue and the company weren't niche, I didn't see every third Instateen or a TikTok person pose with its issues and take pictures of it on the coffee table. It seemed more sacred. And I do know it - of course, it was primarily the rich who were interested, but these days - it is not exclusive, being a simple showreel of editorials or shallow articles (Where is good writing outside of 5 new lipsticks for summer? I know it is in Vestoj with Anja Cronberg or in The Gentlewoman, but still.)
Then, the trading, vintage, and reselling appears. It is all fuelled by the brands that not necessarily create knock-offs (Zara, H&M), but mid-level ones that created rather different pieces, but still heavily inspired, and with much better pricing and not necessarily always worse quality to add. In 2020-2021, there is a whole wave of new luxury niche online stores where art and design students sell their works (APOC Store and so on, easily found).
Of course, we cannot stay away form the fact that luxury became a dirty, filthy, disgusting word. It is no more aspirational to be extravagant and luxe, it is seen as shallow, demonstrative, and, for some reason unknown to me, shunned upon. I doubt the reason is it being the financial divide only - it has always been there.
Is luxury, and fashion, has to be elitist to be luxurious and not omnipresent? The brands build the hype and sell like hotcakes, the sales always go up and so do the revenues, defeating the purpose of luxury already. What the affluent ones do for it? Dom Perignon does not cut it, Bottega Veneta can be found cheaper or knocked off easily, and nobody, except the expert, would truly tell. You can find tons of promo codes and offers to stay in the best hotels, and the true uber-luxury of yachts and planes... It is a different kind, not the one I am talking about, where you can reach and touch it.
What do you think? Where is this going? Is there luxury in fashion, or has luxury became too fashionable? Do we need to slow down, or what, you think, will actually happen?
________
TL : DR – I was young and got emotional looking at the shows, often actually wanted to buy Dries Van Noten and was happy to do so, these days even the majority of things seem "meh" and even getting a Balenciaga coat does not even seem like an event. How can we fix luxury fashion?
I love this place for the discussions we can have, it would be lovely to have input and to talk about the topic. Frankly, this is the only place I have left online where fashion can discussed in-depth at all.
With all the bloggers, handed out pieces, all the advertising and the approaching death of print, I see fashion in fruition, but luxury is having its last breaths. Is digital and overmarketing killing it, transforming it or we just haven't reached the change yet?
I cannot help remembering, when I was a teen, my mother would take me to a high-end boutique and we could spend hours there - flicking through the garments, talking to the SAs, to the store owner, and then we'd be invited to the private area and have speciality desserts and coffee. The last such encounter I had was at Prada back in London, and I only got a coat and a pair of shoes, nothing too crazy or too expensive (quite basic pieces). These days, I admit it, I prefer to shop online - it is more convenient and cheaper (for some reason), they do include presents and cards, and mail, but there is no luxury to it, it is too dry, too cold.
While Vogue and the company weren't niche, I didn't see every third Instateen or a TikTok person pose with its issues and take pictures of it on the coffee table. It seemed more sacred. And I do know it - of course, it was primarily the rich who were interested, but these days - it is not exclusive, being a simple showreel of editorials or shallow articles (Where is good writing outside of 5 new lipsticks for summer? I know it is in Vestoj with Anja Cronberg or in The Gentlewoman, but still.)
Then, the trading, vintage, and reselling appears. It is all fuelled by the brands that not necessarily create knock-offs (Zara, H&M), but mid-level ones that created rather different pieces, but still heavily inspired, and with much better pricing and not necessarily always worse quality to add. In 2020-2021, there is a whole wave of new luxury niche online stores where art and design students sell their works (APOC Store and so on, easily found).
Of course, we cannot stay away form the fact that luxury became a dirty, filthy, disgusting word. It is no more aspirational to be extravagant and luxe, it is seen as shallow, demonstrative, and, for some reason unknown to me, shunned upon. I doubt the reason is it being the financial divide only - it has always been there.
Is luxury, and fashion, has to be elitist to be luxurious and not omnipresent? The brands build the hype and sell like hotcakes, the sales always go up and so do the revenues, defeating the purpose of luxury already. What the affluent ones do for it? Dom Perignon does not cut it, Bottega Veneta can be found cheaper or knocked off easily, and nobody, except the expert, would truly tell. You can find tons of promo codes and offers to stay in the best hotels, and the true uber-luxury of yachts and planes... It is a different kind, not the one I am talking about, where you can reach and touch it.
What do you think? Where is this going? Is there luxury in fashion, or has luxury became too fashionable? Do we need to slow down, or what, you think, will actually happen?
________
TL : DR – I was young and got emotional looking at the shows, often actually wanted to buy Dries Van Noten and was happy to do so, these days even the majority of things seem "meh" and even getting a Balenciaga coat does not even seem like an event. How can we fix luxury fashion?
I love this place for the discussions we can have, it would be lovely to have input and to talk about the topic. Frankly, this is the only place I have left online where fashion can discussed in-depth at all.