Super-slicked black fringes and headscarves at JW Anderson
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Super-slicked black fringes and headscarves at JW Anderson
Show Report
ANZEJ DEZAN | 17/06/2012
A scarfed model was holding on to his A2-sized sketchbook during JW Anderson's spring/summer 2013 show at the Institute for Contemporary Arts. Like he was going to take out his pencils and start drawing right then and there - the barely-detectable gesture was figurative of what yet to come.
There is no one that does artistic with a whiff of the androgynous quite so well as JW Anderson. Initially a menswear designer, he only started designing for women two seasons ago due to popular demand. The feminine chip on his shoulder surfaced once again in a myriad of bohemian, Seventies-art-scene-inspired menswear looks.
From the baby chick-yellow statement opening look, all the way through the searingly pink asymmetrical blazer with a diagonal panel running down the front, to the vicious looking teddy bear print, this was no feast for the shy. A two-piece suit was replaced by either matching shirts, closing in the back, or vests and seriously elongated bell bottom trousers, most stunning in ribbed knitwear.
The famous hexagonal shapes from his previous summer menswear collection were replaced by paint blotches and an abstract floral-like motif in black, grey, white and turquoise, mounted on a translucent surface. And while these may sound questionable in terms of wearability, it was the camera appeal of platformed open-back sandals and the pinstripe "Elvis suit" that will make sure they feature in all the glossies next summer. JW Anderson is an acquired taste, but one that always leaves us craving more. More of what comes out of his sketchbooks, more designs and certainly more individuality.