Jen's latest suffers from having to bare comparison (particularly in that 3rd look) with SS10 McQueen. That's a brave place to go.
Her signature cobweb knits, that she's been rendering just as effectively as Mark Fast over the last couple of seasons, morph nicely into a story encompassing both chainmail and seaweed. An irridescent hard and wet mermaid warrior.
So good conceptual development of signature but ultimately I felt executed half heartedly and a little clumsily.
Generally the collection's themes are delivered coherently although I failed to understand where the horizontal stripe pieces near the end came from. And another winter collection that feels terribly summery.
I thought for a moment of the maximalism of S11 Meadham Kirchhoff but the moment was fleeting before concluding Jen both tried too hard and didn't push the boat out far enough.