Not being his fan number 1 in the past, I find myself liking his collection again, as with the menswear in January.
It's mainly because I find most looks much simplified, and while still characteristically quirky (or sometimes plain silly - like the taut conic coat), the execution has left behind some of the antics and over-torturedness that plagued a lot of his work in the past.
He's definitely matured as a designer, thanks mainly to his collaboration with Loewe, and it shows.