JW Anderson Menswear F/W 2023.24 Milan | the Fashion Spot

JW Anderson Menswear F/W 2023.24 Milan

My least favorite collection from JW Anderson in a while. Felt really perverse in a non-fun Demna, almost creepy way + I HATE those frog slippers. The only thing I like was the deconstructed aviator jackets. OFF TOPIC (and I apologize) but JW's fascination with young, twinky boys is as odd as Ludovic's (at least the former doesn't have a nsfw IG account that allowed submissions from guys...at least not that I know of).
 
I really wish he had presented more pants, without them this collection feels just too weird. It's a shame, because it has enormous potential, even if some ideas are relatively awkward. My personal highlights were the reedition of the FW 2013 shorts and the printed t-shirts, they are actually interesting.
 
I am very bias regarding JWA because I love a lot his work at Loewe and with his eponymous he is at least pushing the menswear. It is not conservative or street wear. I appreciate the fact that he is embracing male’s fragile side, that he incorporates a fun light part to how men can dress.

Menswear is still very limited and this season proves that so far.
 
I’m kind of admirative of this kind of super pretentious/ Uber intellectual vision of HF.
It’s like a pastiche, a hyper-intellectualisation of a trunk show.
There are very great banal pieces that are commercial in the most simple and effective way and around that, there’s something that feels like Robert Altman’s RTW movie with the models parading naked…With a global approbation of the crowd because the supposed intellectual intention behind it is bigger than the actual result.

At least it looks well made.
 
It's a commercial collection presented extremely. These clothes still look believable and make sense in everyday life once you take them off the runway.

I'm loving all the outerwear, especially the leather ones because they are so eye-catching. The accessories and styling added a nice fun touch to the collection.

Tbh I don't mind wearing this collection in real life. With trousers of course :P.
 
Nice to see some leg hair on the runway. Those boots also show off some great calf definition.

It's Anderson being Anderson. Just him seriously taking not being serious very seriously in that fashion school kind of way. Funnily enough, he's also doing what most of these schools hate: making commercial, sell-able pieces.

Not for me in the end as I'll never fully get it, but I can't deny that he has his finger on the - or at least a - pulse when it comes to his marketability. Just a couple more pairs of pants, Mr. Anderson.
 
Well those panties look nice. At least it's giving something. But at the same time I'm already bored and roll my eyes reading the show note. I'm sure it's high concept but rather prefer seeing actual clothes on the runway.
 
Weird that folks have a problem with the casting…when 98% of the designers use « twink » models. It’s the norm these days… Sadly.

The collection…well very CSM Master level. Uber-pretentious. Some designers like Margiela can turn a plastic bag into a top and it works because it was poetic/rough/bold at the time. But JW Anderson turning a pillow into a top is mediocre…

Same thing with the fabric roll : amazing at Maison Martin Margiela. Pathetic at JW Anderson.
 

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