Khaite S/S 2025 New York

[YohjiAddict]

It’s better than I expected. It feels lighter than their preceding collections, which looked so heavy and cumbersome. There are some cool propositions and it doesn’t feel preserved in aspic like Proenza.

All the experimentation going on with the sheer organza was a risky bet that didn’t pay off, their strength is clearly not flou, most of it looks unhinged.

 

[Drusilla_]

yeah the experiments in texture did not work, there are good looks in there but I'm really not feeling that ....macrame? pompoms? ruching?

 

[Phuel]

The Comme and Jil references are understandable— even obvious: Curious if she would agree.

What’s more interesting, is the impression that she may have been looking at Calvin Klein’s triumphant rebranding and comeback in A/W 1992: This offering, with its leather layers of coats and more blocky silhouettes over delicate, wispy sheaths— perhaps not so masterfully executed (LOL), reminds me a lot of that gorgeous Calvin Klein collection. Even the fresh, dewy, just-out-of-the-ocean glistening faces with the hair slicked back reminds me of signature Kate and Christy visages at that Calvin Klein show.

She and this brand is so above the rest of the reductive excess permeating throughout NYFW. It’s by no means great— but she’s reclaiming a bit of the past glories that made NYFW worthwhile, once upon time. I'll take it.

 

[Delleone]

It´s like a strange mix between Comme des Garçons and Phoebe Philo (Comme des Phoebe?).

You can tell she wanted it all to look avant-garde...but at the end it finished looking derrière-garde.

I’d also add the spontaneously draped black organza bubble that closed the last Balenciaga haute couture outing — la robe “éphémère”.

Ditto Luke and Lucie Meiers folksy forays for Jil Sander.

We could name more.

 

[vogue28]

Must admit I don't know much about Khaite but this feels so much more elevated and refined in comparison to what else is on display during New York Fashion Week.

 

[LadyJunon]

Solid collection as always, but I want the moody presentation back...