The Comme and Jil references are understandable— even obvious: Curious if she would agree.
What’s more interesting, is the impression that she may have been looking at Calvin Klein’s triumphant rebranding and comeback in A/W 1992: This offering, with its leather layers of coats and more blocky silhouettes over delicate, wispy sheaths— perhaps not so masterfully executed (LOL), reminds me a lot of that gorgeous Calvin Klein collection. Even the fresh, dewy, just-out-of-the-ocean glistening faces with the hair slicked back reminds me of signature Kate and Christy visages at that Calvin Klein show.
She and this brand is so above the rest of the reductive excess permeating throughout NYFW. It’s by no means great— but she’s reclaiming a bit of the past glories that made NYFW worthwhile, once upon time. I'll take it.