Kris van Assche Mens FW 06/07

[purechris]

I like it....the dark mood at the beginning is very good....I like the greys a lot. Something about the white shirt with the black placket appeals to me, but I'm afraid IRL it would be a little too "tricksy" as Baklanyc would say

and while I really like the styling of sweatpants and shirts/jackets on the runway, I can't imagine anybody pulling this off successfully....

 

[.francesca]

i like 90% of it until post #7, starting with the guy wearing the wreath on his head and the half-untucked white shirt and the scowl on his face. then i start to hate it. but thanks for posting!

 

[Ianastar]

I normally really Kris Van Assche....but this is very flat and boring. And the hats in the first few pics......EGADS!!

 

[juzuxel]

To be honest I'm really dissapointed! Some accesories are really fun and I deffinetly need them! But the clothes are really booring.

I was hopping for something really good because last season was kind of nah but I tought that he wasn't sure what do.

 

[henrik]

solid collection imo.

 

[JuiceMajor]

Like this collection!! He is growing!

 

[Bidwell]

The peaceful palestinian looks and the classic tailoring don't mesh into one cohesive collection for me. He's obviously making his bread and butter from suits (which I would buy). The rest is mishmash and ho hum. The tall hats and wreaths in hair do not accessories make in any case.

 

[MulletProof]

utterly pretty.

i love the palette, particularly the blueish shirt in the first posts.

 

[Pastry]

what's the big deal? i think the cuts are too simple to engage anyone's interset in the store....

it's banal..not interesting banal

and the wreaths remind me of baltic pagan history, i like a romantic touch, but i also like it when references can't be pinned down as "folk" or "duke of windsor", and all that...

 

[Spacemiu]

I like it, it's very moody

 

[Djavanjmiles]

I've like everything that Kris has done he's so talented and the clothes have a life of their own kinda and they look so wonderful.

 

[amchan]

like it a lot, but last season was much better!

 

[Fade to Black]

I saw this earlier but didn't comment yet, so here are some of my thoughts:

- Looks like Kris is reverting back to the slim aesthetic he pushed back at Dior..interesting, since during the early stages of the brand he emphasized his fondness for volume and how he would use it to differentiate his brand from DH. Even in a lot of reviews I see people separated the two brands by stating that KvA went for a more relaxed fit. Needless to say, the pants here look fairly well cut, makes more sense than a $1200 pair of hardly tailored cargo pants...

- Some of the styling still feels a bit gimmicky to me. On the runway the outfits on the models look really nonchalantly chic, perhaps deceptively so, but still I wonder how this will translate in the stores since it was the same case with the first season.

- Someone above said suits are KvA's bread and butter, and after three seasons I think it's good he's starting to find his niche, which is separate from the current DH casual/denim driven looks...I wanna see how these suits turn out though, because the ones I tried on from just last fall/winter were nowhere near the level of refinement of Dior's tailoring. The suits actually didn't fit very well, and the shirting, even with the relaxed details, still felt kind of stiff. Interesting to note is how so much of his pieces (especially the suits) were still around in boutiques during sales, didn't seem like it was so well received as initially thought. Overall the collection is decent, could be his strongest one yet but the final test is gonna take place in the stores.

 

[zamb]

really good

 

[kiddokiddo]

I like it, a solid collection, though it could have been more directional and focused...A few looks seem lost in there...But I want the woven cummerbund, and the piped tweed duffelcoat

 

[mdankwah]

i actually really like this

 

[Tacker]

very funny~amazing! interesting design

 

[visconti]

I just noticed that this thread was bumped, so here are a couple of comments and a discussion of one of the shirts.

I think my reaction is pretty much on par with what others noted earlier in the thread. I like the first half quite a bit, but it starts to lose me once it switches to the sweats or more casual looks. It seems he could run into problems becaue, while not necessarily the most expensive on the market, his clothes are a sizable investment and for many (myself included), it would be difficult to justify buying a number of KVA pieces over Dior or similar lines. I prefer this collection to his other four because at least initially, it is less sportswear inspired and closer to the feel of his former employer. I'm not sure what that says about his (or Hedi's) work.

While on vacation over the Summer I picked up what is, thus far, my only KVA item. It's one of the white shirts with a black placket. The cotton has a nice finish to it, but it's slightly frustrating because the construction more or less forces you to wear it unbuttoned like the runway model. This is fine for going out to dinners, but I was also hoping it could double as a shirt to wear to weddings. Unfortunately, the piece of cloth under the collar and containing the top button is entirely white, so if anyone looks closely, it's very obvious that the "tie" is not real. Just another inch of black would've completed the illusion and doubled the number of appropriate occasions. Rather than becoming a real staple of my wardrobe it relegates it to a rather expensive gimmick.

The fit is also comparable to the runway. It's not "perfect" as some of my favorite dress shirts, but this may be intentional. Since it more or less forces you to wear it unbuttoned, a form fitted body may have been too rigid looking.

Although I'm content with it, had it not been one of those "Buy it now or say goodbye forever!" moments I may have picked up on some of the imperfections before it made its way into the closet. The disappointing thing is, I hoped that having it would really drive me to seek out his pieces. Now it's too difficult to dive in without reservations.