Lanvin S/S 2023 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[disco54]

Too Milan and its boring

 

[THD96]

I love this collection, my favorite collection from Bruno. The set, and the music help to create a perfect mood for the show.

A big improvement from his previous season.
I like that he is confident enough to step out of his comfort zone and not reply to his usual tricks (childish cartoon prints, garish floral pints, Y2K, Loewe-esque, etc...).
I love the simplicity of the clothes and the subtle hints of Prada throughout the collection.
A perfect balance between casual daytime tailoring with simple evening wear.
I love the menswear, it compliments the womenswear and together they create perfect harmony for the collection. The orange coat is my favorite look.
The styling is a massive improvement this season. Idk if Carlos is still involved or not, I like that the styling decided to keep it simple.

I don't like feathery shoes and in terms of accessories and bags, they could be stronger.

Overall, great job Bruno. He gets better each season, and his final walk shows confidence that he is doing something right for the brand.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I am sure Bruno will be out soon… things between him and his new boss,Siddhartha are not good at all. The latter comes from Theory so it says a lot about how he sees things.

Ludivine Poiblanc is more and more involved in Lanvin yet I don’t know if she styled this collection. (Pretty sure she did)

Speaking of it, very pedestrian, commercial, flat and uninspiring. Someone could say to me it is a Boss or a Cos collection, I will believe it.

 

[WAVES]

what a beautiful collection! the colours were great the fabrics looked amazing, the execution was fantastic!
all those coats and leather pieces looked superb.
the dresses at the end were a good surprise too.

overall, a chic and modern vibe from beginning to end. well done.

 

[perhydrol]

I'm convinced that this third or fourth change of aesthetic during Sialelli's tenure at Lanvin will be his last one. What is more, I actually suspect that he had no creative control over this collection, especially after the resort one, designed by the internal team. Maybe it's not as bad as the horror of Lapidus, but it's absolutely anonymous and could have been designed by anyone for any other house. Such a shame the previous, more eccentric direction wasn't that successful because it felt like a good match for the house of Lanvin.

 

[LadyJunon]

I am sure Bruno will be out soon… things between him and his new boss,Siddhartha are not good at all. The latter comes from Theory so it says a lot about how he sees things.

Does that mean you think he'll attempt to transform Lanvin into one of those very understated, commercial brands? Would that even work in the Paris fashion scene?

 

[LadyJunon]

The Vogue Runway review to explain what happened here:

Lanvin
SPRING 2023 READY-TO-WEAR

By Anders Christian Madsen

October 4, 2022

This summer, Lanvin announced a “reset” focused on aligning its directions for women’s and menswear, and building a contemporary wardrobe for both customers. In the process, the house wants to turn down the volume on the opulence it had been amplifying in recent seasons, and settle for a more subdued glamour. That was illustrated in a pre-collection “overseen” by artistic director Bruno Sialelli in July, but today’s main collection felt more like his definitive—and more personal—proposal for Lanvin’s new market plan. “In the past, we introduced my vision for daywear. Then, we introduced the eveningwear. Now we want to express the idea that we can accompany our audience on a full-day occasion,” he said in a preview.

There were two sides to the collection Sialelli showed in L’Atelier des Lumières, a former foundry on Rue Saint-Maur, the walls of which he bathed in projections of poetic footage created by the film-maker Joshua Woods. On the narrative side, we were on holiday somewhere between the desert of Marrakech and the coast of Casablanca: yellow and blue coats and miniskirts constructed in shiny eel skin, seaweed-shaped embroideries on jackets, and knitted robes de style that bounced like jellyfish. On the technical side, we were between the pristine and the deconstructed: pristine coats, shorts and mini-skirts frayed at the hems, macramé tops meticulously but coarsely handcrafted in silk tubing, crispy cotton dresses, and stone-washed satin coats that played to the same contrast.

Transparent cloqué coats and suits and some of the more prettified robes de style considered, “subdued” would probably be overstating the evolution. But Sialelli did clarify his proposition. Gone were the animated prints, wild art deco ornamentations, and ballroom gestures of previous seasons. In their place, he turned to an earthy palette energized with hits of electric blue and orange, and materials—such as those eel coats, or the plumage that adorned path-clearing ballerinas—that were naturally graphic rather than artificially or animatedly so. Amongst the more complex proposals were some nice options for luxurious tailoring: clean enough to be timeless and sculpted enough to push past pre-collection territory.

Vogue Runway

I feel Sialelli might leave Lanvin soon due to this weird change in aesthetic. Who changes their brand aesthetic TWICE in FOUR years?

 

[Lola701]

The Vogue Runway review to explain what happened here:

Vogue Runway

I feel Sialelli might leave Lanvin soon due to this weird change in aesthetic. Who changes their brand aesthetic TWICE in FOUR years?

It reminds me of the time Galliano was asked to cut back the excess and go back to a more classy direction.
Tbh, while I’m against that types of decision from the suits as it affect the creativity and the leading aspect of a designer, it’s almost refreshing to have somebody today who has that in mind.
This is not a Gen-Z ready type of proposition. It’s weird but Bruno has been the only one who managed to revive Lanvin a little bit. To cut the rise and the ride right now could detrimental in a long term for Lanvin.

The collection was weird. Classy but not luxurious. Surely wearable but a bit boring but I take that over Dior and Chanel…

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Does that mean you think he'll attempt to transform Lanvin into one of those very understated, commercial brands? Would that even work in the Paris fashion scene?

Well every exec wants their brand to be a commercial success. While Bruno managed to have people talk about Lanvin, it is far from being a commercial success, especially with the money put on crazy casting, expensive stylists, advertising campaigns etc.

No it shoes, it bags or any of kind to have some cash back. I just know Bruno and Siddartha are not on the best terms and Bruno is stuck as Siddartha has his budget in his hands. He slightly pushed away Carlos to have Ludivine who he is very close to and fond of. She is the one who styled this show.

 

[Mathewthew]

Well every exec wants their brand to be a commercial success. While Bruno managed to have people talk about Lanvin, it is far from being a commercial success, especially with the money put on crazy casting, expensive stylists, advertising campaigns etc.

No it shoes, it bags or any of kind to have some cash back. I just know Bruno and Siddartha are not on the best terms and Bruno is stuck as Siddartha has his budget in his hands. He slightly pushed away Carlos to have Ludivine who he is very close to and fond of. She is the one who styled this show.

I love Ludivine, I always love her work and worked with her once long long time ago, she was nice and have good sense. I love Lanvin cause Alber's work meant a lots to me and the last four dress is my favourite because I can totally see it's Alber's Lanvin. I'm not a fans of Bruno's Lanvin, cause I just got stuck with the old Lanvin. But it's also sad to saw a talent designer got squeeze like this.