LaQuan Smith F/W 2024.25 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

Hmm…
He must be doing something good as he was able to afford Carine for the styling this season. Alex White, Patti Wilson and now Carine, he is playing with the good ones.

Now, it would be better for him to actually step-up his game in terms of design language and taste.
The highs are high because they are simple, effective but the lows are abyssal! Those cheap looking synthetic shiny fabrics, those weird cut-outs, that outdated very 90’s shoulder…It’s not appealing.

He is obsessed by Tom Ford. Now he is working with Carine. It’s maybe time now to be inspired by Carine, to have her looks on the moodboard or to have her part of the creative process to elevate the whole thing. His FW2023 was such a step into the right direction and now this is the second season in a row where we are going backward.

He still looks good and Glamorous. I wish his women looked as glamorous as he think they does.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Dated and amateurish

 

[Nimsay]

Those halter wrap neck tops are kicking his ***. The first red one is problematic but that white one later on the in the show is tragic. It looks like it's warping, rolling the hem and showing the lining, which is so unacceptable for a designer brand. Quanie doesnt understand that top needs darts in the front to make it actually stay in place.

I guess backwards blazers are a trend for NYFW. This collection is very inconsistent but also an improvement. He veers from really tacky trash (the mens zoot suit with red lapels) to a beautiful staple piece that feels like 'Quan - that high slit jersey maxi skirt.

 

[Nimsay]

His look is TF but not really. It's TF through the lense of TV, Film and Music. its like TF YSL when Madonna wore it for her 2004 album. or TF Gucci worn in that movie Blade. It's not direct TF. Its like TF through the lens of stylists or creators who added their own twist to it. Tom would never do huge shoulders like this.

 

[jeanclaude]

It´s like a street hooker trying to be classy...but you can tell she does not know how to do it.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

He needs to understand the power of sex and seduction through simplicity and what can be seen as something more "modest". Covering up doesn't detract from sex, you just gotta know how to play with which he hasn't come to grips with yet. Also another instance of the menswear getting in the way. Not that they're horrible looks, they just don't need to be here and the time spent on them could have been time spent on the main event being the women's wear.

What works does work really well, but there's so much wrong here that it brings it all down. I think he also has a fear of moving away from what he was known for early on because there is still a client for that and doesn't want to lose it, but you just gotta take that risk. Time to move on and develop yourself.

 

[nonfatgoddess]

The only thing that looks almost covetable here is the fur jacket. You could tell the fabrics he used are cheap. So cheap that I wouldn’t be able to see a difference between this and a Forever 21 holiday party collection.

 

[THD96]

He can change all the stylists he wants, and he can get all of Tom's close collaborators but it won't change a thing. The problem is not with the stylists. Alex/Patti/Carine can only do so far but they can elevate good clothes to become great but they definitely cannot bad clothes to become good.

He has to change his POV and his standards in the way he executes his clothes. A great stylist no matter how great they are cannot hide the fault in the clothes.
Frankly, the menswear couldn't be more dated. And the womenswear is revealing but not sexy or sensual.

He maybe has the right attitude but he also needs to have a certain amount of technical skills and knowledge to become great. TF definitely didn't become a legend with just his attitude.

 

[tourbillions]

what drag queens think when they namedrop saint laurent

 

[Urban Stylin]

I saw some promise at the start but unfortunately the mixed bag of some good pieces with some horrible ones threw off the whole thing, He needs to get a quality control team as well as someone to help source fabrics.

 

[Alquimista]

I want him to succeed because he's not another young designer who is so avant garde, who loves the japanese innovative fashions from 40 years ago but his output is very inconsistent.

Yes, the style is here. Clearly he loves TF. But he needs to source better fabrics. The big shoulders, big lapels are more modern Balmain than TF. Some shapes are good but bad fabrics and execution brings them down, and the bad shapes are numerous enough to drown the good ones out.

And until they're good enough, get the menswear out of your women's runaway.

 

[disco54]

Section 8 Tom Ford for the most part but there are some nice pieces, this actual fur coat is the best I have seen in all NYFW and the quality is pretty obvious

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[Urban Stylin]

Gotta give it up to him for bringing in some heavy hitters tho. Didnt realize that apart from one of the strongest casts he also had Baby Face playing as the models walked. Watching it in motion has made me appreciate it more, the movement and sheen did actually add something to the collection though the opening track was a crazy choice where the lady says 'if you dont look at me am gonna beat your *** like a runaway slave' and then a white model walks in! Might be innocent but the visuals are not good.

 

[Phuel]

Hmm…
He must be doing something good as he was able to afford Carine for the styling this season. Alex White, Patti Wilson and now Carine, he is playing with the good ones.

Now, it would be better for him to actually step-up his game in terms of design language and taste.
The highs are high because they are simple, effective but the lows are abyssal! Those cheap looking synthetic shiny fabrics, those weird cut-outs, that outdated very 90’s shoulder…It’s not appealing.

He is obsessed by Tom Ford. Now he is working with Carine. It’s maybe time now to be inspired by Carine, to have her looks on the moodboard or to have her part of the creative process to elevate the whole thing. His FW2023 was such a step into the right direction and now this is the second season in a row where we are going backward.

He still looks good and Glamorous. I wish his women looked as glamorous as he think they does.

Carine styling is why this looks a few stumbles back when he was making confident strides forward. She’s established herself as a titan amongst titans in the industry with her past work of course, but she’s also really way past her due date, let alone prime, in 2024.

What I admire about him is that he’s designing clothes for women that train their bodies hard (or at least pay the premium for a great cosmetic surgeon) to earn wearing such designs; having a big doughy chest and bigger doughier derriere simply won’t do LOL But he’s still way too one-note at this point— both in his love letters to Tom, and to be still marinating in the trashy, tacky stripper aesthetic that he came up from, to be convincing that he’s a worthy contender at the altar of Tom Ford. Rich vulgarity, decadence, and even sleaze is perfectly fine— he’s just not good enough o walk that fine line between refinement and sleaze. And there seems to be a dip in the tailoring that he had vastly improved upon of previous offerings: Why are the jacket hems and the the lapel on the ponyskin suit so puffy and not razor-sharp pressed??? By the 2nd part, it’s a mess, with the inclusion of the ballroom dancing menswear costumes just tipping that trash can to excess. Hopefully he’ll remedy these missteps by the next Season.

Carine and Babyface are not needed. What’s needed are the strictest design/tailoring/material standards if he wants to portray rich vulgarity.

 

[giorrie]

Gotta give it up to him for bringing in some heavy hitters tho. Didnt realize that apart from one of the strongest casts he also had Baby Face playing as the models walked. Watching it in motion has made me appreciate it more, the movement and sheen did actually add something to the collection though the opening track was a crazy choice where the lady says 'if you dont look at me am gonna beat your *** like a runaway slave' and then a white model walks in! Might be innocent but the visuals are not good.

hahahahaha it's referencing Player's club

 

[Nimsay]

How gauche. Quannie needs to grow up.