Lemaire F/W 2017.18 Paris

[RedSmokeRise]

vogue

 

[RedSmokeRise]

vogue

 

[RedSmokeRise]

vogue

Not as strong as their menswear IMO.

 

[MulletProof]

I loved it.. it has some late 80s type of sensuality that's so subtle and a bit awkward and so reminiscent to me (mostly in mood) of Turbeville's work, old Yohji ads. I like seeing him stay true to elements he's known for and probably feels the most comfortable departing from but still integrating small experiments or new inspiration each season..

 

[HeatherAnne]

He's become very hit and miss in his collections to me.

He's still a master of color, knowing when to interject a plummy purple, sea green, and cerulean blue with a smoky blue.

Some of the sleeker and flowy pieces speak my language, beautifully tailored and great button placement as usual.

The fur clogs (sure to be a hit with the social media crowd), wide ribbed corduroy, and sparkle mesh top can be burned - stat!
​

 

[Not Plain Jane]

isabelle huppert should wear this.

the calm in a storm.

 

[WilhelmF]

Oh I would love Izzy in that white dress at the beginning, for example.

I pretty much like this. I think he is in the same route that everyone is but his output just feels so fresh and focused. His way of presenting it is serene and a bit sensual, very true to him.

 

[Phuel]

That corduroy suit is the dumbest look that’s like some stray runway-bombing from the gimmicky likes of J.W., and Demna that sneaked its way into this collection.

Aside from that mishap, his offering is the perfect antithesis of all these desperately-seeking-attention lessors and fashion-victims that demand gimmicks of the season. He does long, languid silhouettes punctuated by sternness, all in such a no-nonsense manner that still stands out, in the best way possible. Designs that flatter a woman— what a daring concept in this age of flashy gimmicks and forced progression. Except for 6’ tall and size 2 models, and probably Mullet— no woman looks half-decent wearing oversized, droopy shouldered coats and jackets. So refreshing to see Lemaire propose a fuller cut, and even broader shoulders, without anything drooping and sagging: No one, woman nor men, wants to wear anything that suggests… sagging.

HIs pleated and draped pieces, along with the leathers are so light and even utilitarian, and still cut a dramatic silhouette. I’m already saving for a couple of the coats with the Le Samurai spy-collars from his men’s winter collection. His women’s versions are just as dramatic and so accessible. He really gets that balance right without a hint of gimmick.

Thanks RedSmokeRise.