Lemaire S/S 2020 Paris | the Fashion Spot

Lemaire S/S 2020 Paris

All the black pieces in all their savoury textures, along with the monochromatic variations of the trench/kimono are as unrepentantly under-the-radar dramatic, sumptuous, plush and lush as I’d expect from him. His no-nonsense, unfussy and still sharply modern sensibility is what makes his brand of design so fresh these days of cluttered gimmicks.

The men’s however, is as as unconvincing and very mall-fashion mediocrity circa 1989 as he’s been stubbornly insisting on for the last handful of seasons. Why can’t it be as graphically strong and refined as the women’s???
 
All the black pieces in all their savoury textures, along with the monochromatic variations of the trench/kimono are as unrepentantly under-the-radar dramatic, sumptuous, plush and lush as I’d expect from him. His no-nonsense, unfussy and still sharply modern sensibility is what makes his brand of design so fresh these days of cluttered gimmicks.

The men’s however, is as as unconvincing and very mall-fashion mediocrity circa 1989 as he’s been stubbornly insisting on for the last handful of seasons. Why can’t it be as graphically strong and refined as the women’s???


I’m in the reverse. Love the men’s but not very keen on the women’s. I don’t think Sara-Linh is a good designer. It’s my understanding she’s in charge of the women’s studio and Christophe handles the men’s.

I liked the womenswear before she got involved. This looks messy, awkward and arbitrary to me.

You might like the men’s more if you see the separate lookbook they shot for it. They styled it a bit differently and then toned it down for the show. Lemaire is probably the only designer I buy at the moment. I like it for myself despite it looking like “80s mall fashion.”
 
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A bit underwhelming; my favourite look is the black top with cascading beads and the final two in grey. Men's was a bit unnecessary...he still does a mens show separately no?
 
That sixth look is just waiting to be the cover of M le Monde, that opening was a master class on all black that Suzanne will surely recognize. The final grey ensembles were absoulutely stellar. I've always liked how his shoes look taller than they actually are. I also liked the menswear, particularly the black and taupe outfits.
 
i am with Mutterlein. Love the men's much more. so clean and chic.
the women's offerings on the other hand are so heavy, suffocating in too much fabric and even a bit frumpy.
 
I have been very underwhelmed with Lemaire's womenswear over the past few collections, I wished he (or his partner) would design the women's in a more straight-forward manner as he does the men's or his collaborative effort for Uniqlo - The long skirt hems and the imbalance of too many oversized fits are not very easy to pull off for a lot of women. The use of chintzed cotton and vinyl lamination feels unfortunate here, the best looks remain the most basic (a fitted T-shirt or tank with a high waisted pant).
 

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