Lemaire S/S 2025 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[LadyJunon]

The men's shoes are heinous and the faux-nonchalant choreogrphy is getting old, but other than that, it's a solid collection.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I think the men's is better than the women's this season. But it's all super chic as always.

As an actual Lemaire customer, I'm annoyed only because there are so many items here that I want and can't afford (not that I have anywhere to wear them).

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The faux nonchalance with the raised runway is odd to watch.

Still, it is all so buttery smooth and chic. Missing those jolts of richer or shocking colour though. The tonals are a bit played out but with clothes like these, I can really only complain briefly because it's still all so well done. A very relaxed, gorgeously louche early-early 80s (like Yohji and Armani at around that time).

 

[alwaysademo]

I like the presentation. something rings authentic about the uppity expat feel. i know they've been traveling a lot these past years. the way some models look around, sometimes stop and stare at the audience, 1 woman was caressing the wall as she walks... is refreshing. the clothes are lemaire as it always has been, though as the years go by they feel more lived in, less precious. there's a slow, personal evolution at this brand that is engaging.

 

[PDFSD]

I wish he was still at Hermes would be bit more exciting for the H house and contrast of his own personal line with in structure of hermes is exciting as he grew more confident in experimenting.

I get it about the shoes and for me also the layering is almost anti sensual, where i think the row does much better job at distilling the different layers of dressing for this type of client, even if Lemaire shows more ideas usually i remember the Row more often.

 

[Kennnnn]

A very interesting choice of location for a fashion show. I found the womenswear really solid - compelling and coherent. It's lighter and sexier, a bit more louche.

The best part about it is that you can see these woman just about everywhere - in Paris and Tokyo, naturally, but also Berlin, Shanghai, Melbourne.

The menswear I found less convincing. I don't know if this guy actually exists.

 

[Lola701]

A very interesting choice of location for a fashion show. I found the womenswear really solid - compelling and coherent. It's lighter and sexier, a bit more louche.

The best part about it is that you can see these woman just about everywhere - in Paris and Tokyo, naturally, but also Berlin, Shanghai, Melbourne.

The menswear I found less convincing. I don't know if this guy actually exists.

Your comment is so interesting because I actually see more men following this aesthetic (very French teacher actually) and I know some men who wears Isabel Marant menswear and who are customers of Lemaire…
I know his Lemaire is very successful in Asia but while I love the relatable nature of his work, it’s always about specific pieces for me.

 

[j02215]

It does makes me miss him in Hermes a bit, there’s a certain ease and elegance that’s quite synergistic between them. At the same time, he did not just copy/paste his own aesthetic at another house.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I know this

I like the presentation. something rings authentic about the uppity expat feel. i know they've been traveling a lot these past years. the way some models look around, sometimes stop and stare at the audience, 1 woman was caressing the wall as she walks... is refreshing. the clothes are lemaire as it always has been, though as the years go by they feel more lived in, less precious. there's a slow, personal evolution at this brand that is engaging.

Absolutely!

 

[Alquimista]

I don't know how you people would watch an early 90s fashion show without having a stroke. Models used to be expressive, including male models.

For the runaway choreographers that read us: let the models express themselves. Let they express something other than apathy. Let them pose, take the jacket/coat off.

The clothes are beautiful, tasteful but not my cup of tea. Lol

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[LadyJunon]

I don't know how you people would watch an early 90s fashion show without having a stroke. Models used to be expressive, including male models.

For the runaway choreographers that read us: let the models express themselves. Let they express something other than apathy. Let them pose, take the jacket/coat off.

The clothes are beautiful, tasteful but not my cup of tea. Lol

I seldom watch 90s shows because the videography was awful. Turns and spins like those really required multi-camera video like Alaïa's shows.

 

[disco54]

There is a mid late 80s Esprit vibe in the clothes , those who remember will know what I mean.

Lovely as usual!

 

[Lola701]

I would love to see a more diverse cast from him body-wise because I have the feeling that his clothes would actually fit bigger men or women. I feel like his cut of trousers is more forgiving to shapes…

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I don't know how you people would watch an early 90s fashion show without having a stroke. Models used to be expressive, including male models.

For the runaway choreographers that read us: let the models express themselves. Let they express something other than apathy. Let them pose, take the jacket/coat off.

Amen

 

[jeanclaude]

I am tired of oversized! Laura Ponte walking was a surprise though...

 

[ecnerretneerg]

I think the choreography looks forced and probably awkward to experience firsthand. Its not convincing like Margiela/Hermes or a show cast with street models

 

[Mody]

Why is the duo being referred to as he/him? Is she not involved in design or something? Genuine question.
Because I don't have access to a physical store and have not interacted with the garment in real life, I can only judge the designer on paper. Lemaire and the likes of Lemaire (and The Row), always blend into some sort of unison. They have nice pastel color and have oversized clothes (a lot of time, for the sake of being oversized ). They don't have a unique brand identity that conveys a strong character. It could well be me not educated in a more architectural, art, or creative space with a lot of subtlety.
And since you can achieve this look on a surface level through the Uniqlo U collab, the necessity to actually engage with the conversation presented by a lot of these brands is not there.
However, this collection, especially the womenswear really conveys a strong, fearsome, independent woman who is so sexy and sensual, and who you can see her doing cutting-edge journalism with this collection fitting her perfectly.
As for menswear, I am a bit disappointed that the same energy is not there after the first 2 looks. For the first 2 looks, the struggle of wanting to get them undressed fully or undressed enough is there and it is quite exciting, but the feeling then surely dissipates fast. I think they need to have an overall more mature and sensual cast to add a layer of personality to the menswear.