Lemaire S/S 2025 Paris

[Deleted member 7575]

Christophe does men's.
Sarah-Linh does women's.

She takes the lead on the rest of the brand's creative direction although they are both involved.

 

[Kennnnn]

Your comment is so interesting because I actually see more men following this aesthetic (very French teacher actually) and I know some men who wears Isabel Marant menswear and who are customers of Lemaire…
I know his Lemaire is very successful in Asia but while I love the relatable nature of his work, it’s always about specific pieces for me.

I agree with you. For some reason, I've never wanted to wear Lemaire head to toe. But taken apart, so many things work with pieces I already have, including from Uniqlo.

Lemaire is apparently successful in Asia, but outside of Japan, I don't know if people really covet anything apart from the croissant sling bag. Even in Tokyo, the only men that seem to follow this aesthetic are the extremely stylish ones who work in design, fashion, creative industries. It doesn't percolate much into a broader audience.

The "merely fashionable" men (with boring day jobs but who like to dress up on the weekends) I know are more likely to wear Margiela, Marni (which is huge in Japan), maybe Celine.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I agree with you. For some reason, I've never wanted to wear Lemaire head to toe. But taken apart, so many things work with pieces I already have, including from Uniqlo.

Lemaire is apparently successful in Asia, but outside of Japan, I don't know if people really covet anything apart from the croissant sling bag. Even in Tokyo, the only men that seem to follow this aesthetic are the extremely stylish ones who work in design, fashion, creative industries. It doesn't percolate much into a broader audience.

The "merely fashionable" men (with boring day jobs but who like to dress up on the weekends) I know are more likely to wear Margiela, Marni (which is huge in Japan), maybe Celine.

It's HUGE in Korea. The only flagship outside of Paris is in Seoul. I think Korea is their biggest market.

 

[Beun]

A very interesting choice of location for a fashion show. I found the womenswear really solid - compelling and coherent. It's lighter and sexier, a bit more louche.

The best part about it is that you can see these woman just about everywhere - in Paris and Tokyo, naturally, but also Berlin, Shanghai, Melbourne.

The menswear I found less convincing. I don't know if this guy actually exists.

As a regular customer of Lemaire's menswear, I am actually drawn to their vision: minimalist and timeless, mid-century inspired silhouettes, muted tones, very comfortable. You feel the luxury when you wear their clothes, because the cuts and fabrics are amazing, and yet it doesn't scream "wealth" to the outside world. Their style translates well for their both French and East Asian customer bases, which is a tour de force as such. "Elegance" is actually something quite difficult to find in the current offer of menswear brands, which are often either too tacky/bling or offer bland and uninspired "quiet luxury". Lemaire manages to sell a vision, a character, a story.

Generally speaking, it's one of their best collections so far. It's nice to see them veer into more explicitly feminine territories for the womenswear. I wonder about these glasses though, they have been showcasing them for three seasons now, and yet haven't started selling them...

 

[tricotineacetat]

By now, they are so firmly established in the building blocks of the Lemaire wardrobe, an unmistakable brand identity and a leadership in their niche that I think they could afford a bit more 'fun' playing around with seasonal gestures to serve as an easy update to an existing Lemaire wardrobe - I always thought of them as fabulous colorists, so to see a collection mostly revolving around neutrals often associated with their style feels a bit like a missed opportunity.

Footwear would seem another easy place to add a different flavor to their established look, with all the subtle western influences, I wouldn't have minded them trying their hands on a pointed toe Santiag boot, I agree that the men's footwear is a bit mehhh if I'm being honest.

All of this is criticism at a high level and the very fact that they managed to build a self-sustaining brand out of the momentum they had where many of their contemporaries failed (Haider *cough*) is testament to the fact they are doing something right. I would like to see where next they want to take their brand, so with two shows a year (if anything), I would be happy to see a bit more of that.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

As a regular customer of Lemaire's menswear, I am actually drawn to their vision: minimalist and timeless, mid-century inspired silhouettes, muted tones, very comfortable. You feel the luxury when you wear their clothes, because the cuts and fabrics are amazing, and yet it doesn't scream "wealth" to the outside world. Their style translates well for their both French and East Asian customer bases, which is a tour de force as such. "Elegance" is actually something quite difficult to find in the current offer of menswear brands, which are often either too tacky/bling or offer bland and uninspired "quiet luxury". Lemaire manages to sell a vision, a character, a story.

Generally speaking, it's one of their best collections so far. It's nice to see them veer into more explicitly feminine territories for the womenswear. I wonder about these glasses though, they have been showcasing them for three seasons now, and yet haven't started selling them...

Amen

 

[Phuel]

I would love to see a more diverse cast from him body-wise because I have the feeling that his clothes would actually fit bigger men or women. I feel like his cut of trousers is more forgiving to shapes…

In theory, perhaps. But the reality is that so much volume with everything offered, is just going to make someone who’s big— look bigger. And someone who’s short, even shorter. Even bodybuilders would look stocky, and drowning in his wears. He’s not as versatile as you’d idealize. Although not tacky as tight, bodycon everything, this exists on the same plane as that extreme.

His women’s still reigns over his men’s because at least there’s a balance of proportions. His men’s is unfortunately settled into a very fuddy-duddy (math teacher LOL) sensibility. I get that many like this look since it’s still quite fashion insider, and it comes from that very modest and gentile1980s Japanese sensibility that’s the trademark of a greater designer like Yohji: Generously-cut silhouettes that flow and drape; fuller pants that taper and rolled at the hem; 3/4-length sleeve; long, voluminous and still light-as-air coats and jackets… I get all that designer-bought “nonchalant” vibe many in the industry covet. I just can’t stand that it ultimately is nothing more than a hardcore 80s vibe that’s co-opted from Yohji by many in working in the creative industry— like Kennnnn mentioned, as their uniform that I find so tedious, even pretentious, in terms of a style.

He does the most amazing navy blue of any brand. I’ll give him that.

 

[jeremydante]

I love Christophe and what he's been able to do at Lemaire. This season is no different. I cannot help but think the greatness he would've been able to bring to Hermes, had he stayed. But then again, his label is doing such deeply cool and timeless things it's so clear what he was meant to do. Love that both genders can glide into the looks and evoke effortless cool.

Was drooling over the stills and just had a moment to watch the full show. Clothes are just as cool in motion as they are still.