Louis Vuitton Cruise 2023 San Diego

[LadyJunon]

 

[Norden]

Wow I’m really excited about this! The location is beautiful, just like the miho museum in Kyoto it sets the mood.

it feels like dune meets California. I get flash backs from his balenciaga days. Some of the colors he uses are super close to how moebius used colors in his comics.

aside from wearability I love fashion like this, layered, interesting, a bit grating. It’s just full of ideas and free. Towards the end he takes it a bit back and becomes more street.

 

[JoCaderone]

I love this! What a spectacular show space & strong collection. Definitely give me Dune vibe but I really enjoy this.

 

[Deleted member 119799]

it's all a bit costumey but i love the first group of looks

 

[Lola701]

Quite brutal isn’t it?
I hated the 3 first looks. I don’t think the collection needed that. Those are essentially oversized ball gowns but I’m not sure it was the best idea to show them there.

It was overall a nice show. It feels very Ghesquiere no matter how crazy he wants to be, quite StarWars/Mad Max-ish maybe as a new interpretation of the 70’s/80´s. Once again, very Nicolas as retro-futurism has always been his thing.

I have always loved that concept of clothes as accessories and there was a lot of that in this show. There were some interesting skirts and I love the fluidity towards the end with the nice parkas and embellished outerwear.
I’m excited because except for some obvious pieces, I’m really curious to see how they will translate it in commercial propositions.
The bags and the boots were fabulous! And they added the touch of reality in a collection that can be sometimes out of earth.

I think this is Nicolas’s last resort collection and it make sense that he decided to go with a BANG. The commercial success of his Vuitton has allowed him to do that.
I’m excited to see what his last year at Vuitton will look like.

 

[LadyJunon]

I think this is Nicolas’s last resort collection and it make sense that he decided to go with a BANG. The commercial success of his Vuitton has allowed him to do that.
I’m excited to see what his last year at Vuitton will look like.

His LAST YEAR?! He's the only designer I actually liked at LVMH...

 

[Salvatore]

This was, perhaps, his first collection for Louis Vuitton that I actually really liked. I am a sucker for futurism/sci-fi so this really hit me. I love all of the metallics. Funnily enough, I could see him at Chanel based on this collection and I am not sure why exactly this particular collection made me see that. Honestly I hope he does because Virginie Viard is on my nerves and Nicolas deserves to do haute couture at this point.

 

[tricotineacetat]

His LAST YEAR?! He's the only designer I actually liked at LVMH...

I wouldn't feel so sorry for him to start a new chapter designing under a different brief than the behemoth that is Louis Vuitton, if I had to be honest - Despite seemingly infinite resources at his finger tips to create spectacles like these, I still believe his Rue Cassette Balenciaga shows remain the ones most memorable in his allover body of work. I would love to see him return to something a bit more intimate, either starting his own brand preferably or to move to a house more rooted in Couture than accessories - His Vuitton clothes tend to look a bit too much as if the feel of a handbag was applied to clothing, with stiff fabrications and fancy hardware applied for too good measure.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I think it was too much, way too much. The first looks were absolutely not necessary, some were too heavy and not visually appealing.

My main issue is that the pieces separated seemed really beautiful and exciting but put all together you don't have the luck to really enjoy them, so it feels like a big visual mess. I really enjoyed some looks though, the casting was nice and the set is absolutely great.

My issue is that I wish he was at that precise as he was at Balenciaga. He was pushing forward but yet had things in control while this collection I feel like they just ran out of ideas and decided to compile everything.

At some point, while watching the show, I thought it was more an Olivier Rousteing collection than his.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think it was too much, way too much. The first looks were absolutely not necessary, some were too heavy and not visually appealing.

My main issue is that the pieces separated seemed really beautiful and exciting but put all together you don't have the luck to really enjoy them, so it feels like a big visual mess. I really enjoyed some looks though, the casting was nice and the set is absolutely great.

My issue is that I wish he was at that precise as he was at Balenciaga. He was pushing forward but yet had things in control while this collection I feel like they just ran out of ideas and decided to compile everything.

At some point, while watching the show, I thought it was more an Olivier Rousteing collection than his.

Those ballgown looks at the beginning reminded me vaguely of his FW'06 'archive' show at Balenciaga, with the dropped waists and trapeze silhouette. But whereas the looks in that show were contrasted with a lot of leg and very high platform boots, the results looked a bit droopy here, worn with sneakers.

 

[Overindulgence]

This collection looks like it belongs in the same universe as Loewe S/S 2022 (not pointing fingers, just imagining a whole sci-fi film with these two collections)

 

[Lola701]

His LAST YEAR?! He's the only designer I actually liked at LVMH...

His contract ends next year. No word on if he will renew it for 5 more years (After all, Marc stayed for 15 years). I mean the figures are great and from the whispers, the relationship with the Arnault and Burke is great. But I think he needs another challenge.

I love that he is pushing the Vuitton atelier but his sudden love for gigantism and the fact that he is moving away from pragmatism in the last few years tells me that he could be great for Couture.

And I think that he needs some structure and limits. I don’t expect and neither want him to replicate his Balenciaga or early Vuitton days. I think what he does now is part of his creative journey but I’m ready for something else. He is expanding his aesthetic and at Vuitton he proved that he could manage the weight of such a big machine.

To go back to the show, I think the problem is that it’s Vuitton and it’s resort. At Vuitton, the shoes and bags are the stars because they are the bread and butter. And there are great here but by making them so loud and obvious here seems weird. Because after all, they are the supporting cast.
It’s a bit frustrating because Nicolas can do interesting and wearable. The stuff that ends up in the stores or the website is not devalued or creativity…And it’s weird to see such a non-commercial resort collection. Almost everything here is special-orders ish. It reminds me of the wild days of Galliano at Dior. It’s so loud that you don’t know what to make out of it…
Galliano was more frivolous so, his excess were more digestible in a way.

 

[THD96]

I love it so much that I watched the show twice and that it's rare today.

I just love the fact that no logos/monograms are slapping in our face. He used a very commercial collection to present his outrageous experiment. Nicolas never takes an easy road and I love him for that.

In a way, this collection is like a retrospective of past and future, an exhibition of his Balenciaga days and his whole tenure at LV. I can see him updating a few of his past ideas of his Balenciaga into this collection. Notably, it's the crisscross bra top from S/S 13, the sci-fi of F/W 12, and the draping that reminded me of F/W 09.

I don't hate the first 3 looks, but I feel they should have been closing the show, it could have been more impactful. I love the bags, they're really fun this time, but I don't like the boots, they seem heavy.

The styling still bothers me, but not that much. Some looks can use fewer layers, and I can leave the belts out in some looks. I wonder if I can blame MAS for the styling this time, she has shown that she can do easy styling with PR, so is it MAS or Nicolas's idea for the heavy styling.

 

[Avonlea]

Did he collab with Olivier Rousteing for this collection? Awful.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Though I am still not sure who NG is designing for, I always look forward to his collections for their originality. Choosing to show at one of the only projects Khan finished was a nice touch, and it certainly added a cool backdrop, but the real appeal here is the fabric. Between the crinkled coats (I would guess lamè) and the boxy, sleeves hoodie I was instantly hooked.

 

[Malaya]

The ball gowns at the beginning.....LOL. It's like a hodgepodge of Valli and Pierpaolo. Other than that, I'm digging a lot of pieces here.

It always bewildered me that people were very critical of him throughout his tenure at Vuitton. Yeah there were misses, but even in those misses I thought he had a lot of strong individual offerings, when dissected. It's always been the styling that made his collections hard to digest, IMO.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

His contract ends next year. No word on if he will renew it for 5 more years (After all, Marc stayed for 15 years). I mean the figures are great and from the whispers, the relationship with the Arnault and Burke is great. But I think he needs another challenge.

I love that he is pushing the Vuitton atelier but his sudden love for gigantism and the fact that he is moving away from pragmatism in the last few years tells me that he could be great for Couture.

And I think that he needs some structure and limits. I don’t expect and neither want him to replicate his Balenciaga or early Vuitton days. I think what he does now is part of his creative journey but I’m ready for something else. He is expanding his aesthetic and at Vuitton he proved that he could manage the weight of such a big machine.

To go back to the show, I think the problem is that it’s Vuitton and it’s resort. At Vuitton, the shoes and bags are the stars because they are the bread and butter. And there are great here but by making them so loud and obvious here seems weird. Because after all, they are the supporting cast.
It’s a bit frustrating because Nicolas can do interesting and wearable. The stuff that ends up in the stores or the website is not devalued or creativity…And it’s weird to see such a non-commercial resort collection. Almost everything here is special-orders ish. It reminds me of the wild days of Galliano at Dior. It’s so loud that you don’t know what to make out of it…
Galliano was more frivolous so, his excess were more digestible in a way.

I think his RTW is a result of his of his pent up frustration with not having enough control of the “fashion” at Balenciaga. At least that is my theory as to why his LV shows end up looking slightly “costumey”. I believe he said by the end of his tenure at Balenciaga, he was rarely involved in the actual creative process, and when he was, the suits required more commercial, saleable items to assist in their aggressive expansion plan (this is also why I believe they hired Demna, I could be totally wrong so don't quote me). Given Arnault‘s support and allowance for creativity, I could see him signing a new contract. At this stage of his life- 51- I don't see him starting an eponymous line, though it's not impossible.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I think his RTW is a result of his of his pent up frustration with not having enough control of the “fashion” at Balenciaga. At least that is my theory as to why his LV shows end up looking slightly “costumey”

It’s been 10 years though lol