Louis Vuitton F/W 2025.26 Paris

For being one of the very few designers who still try to make new things, he has become very predictable.
Another "forever stuck in a 80s retro-futurism never ending loop" collection.

In Balenciaga he used to focus in beauty, but in Vuitton he is obsessed with ugliness. Those belted purses from Ferragamo again, but now made of LV canvas...my eyes! And the Visage/New Romantics make-up from look 33 is really a WTF moment...too literal!!
 
I like it.

It's a great show, with a good soundtrack and a beautiful set. The LED screens added a really cool atmosphere to the show. This reminded me of the intimate feeling of his first few years at LV. I think this presentation works best for Nicolas. Quite often big grand specular show make his clothes kinda lost in it.

I think rather than focus on one specific decade or destination, he focuses on the character's eccentric personality, which will make these clothes complete in their own way.
I like MAS styling for this collection. It hits the perfect spot for me. It is challenging but it isn't complicated, it has layers but it doesn't feel overpowered.
There are so many great outerwear this season, it's hard to choose. My favorite looks are the ponchos from looks 22 & 23. I want them for myself. And the 80s bold shoulders were a nice touch.
Great bags ( maybe not the belt bags tho), and great shoes.

Overall, another great outcome from Nicolas.
 
Not better than Fall 2024 but it was a decent collection
 
I find it rather amusing but also a bit telling that the closing outfit in this show happens to be the most streamlined and least busy one - Something that picks up my main point of criticism with Ghesquiere at Vuitton. It got me thinking that a designer who loves a creative challenge as him hasn‘t really done something radicslly reduced to shape and form in a good while and has rather been known for sculptural tailoring than slinky fluidity.

I hope this isn‘t the last chapter in his career and we will see him re-invent himself another time.
 
This is so vibrant. Rather than expanding on a detail, the butter smooth transition between each look with regard to both color and shape feels like an orchestrated chain reaction that can only come from a master, where every slight turn of palm offers something new. The styling/editing lifts everything, at once playful and understated. Rich but light. He's exactly where he should be.
 
Marc can handle it. I often enjoyed his Vuitton, but it was about spectacle as much as it was about design. I don't think anyone could say that he produced a coherent code for the house. Nicholas's Balenciaga was a much different situation—the Spring 2008 collection is case in point: no one could deny that those looks were both from the mind of Ghesquiere, and still emerged out of a deep conversation with the Balenciaga archives. Everything was there, from the structured tailoring to the play on the bolero. Marc neither had that archival depth to work with, because Vuitton is not a legacy house in terms of RTW or couture, nor seemed to be interested in developing a set of core design propositions for the house (and I'm not blaming him here). What we mostly got from his Vuitton was a sort of beautiful, thematic eclecticism.
Out of 17 years of work, what you got was beautiful thematic eclecticism ? You might wanna brush up on your analytical skills.
 
That's a bit of blow to Marc's work I think. He could reference his work, he just chose not to. It's not just Vuitton, he did the same at Balenciaga more or less. Referenced the archives but changed the style.
But Marc didn’t created codes at Vuitton unfortunately. His collections were mostly at the service of a show, neither he defined a certain idea of a Vuitton woman.

The only thing I would want for Nicolas to reference from the Marc era is the Stephen Sprouse. But as he was brought up for his singularity, why reference Marc?
They are so different and their approach to Vuitton is also very much different…

Marc at Vuitton re-wrote a story every season. The same for Peter Copping and Julie de Libran. None of their collections were connected…
 
They should send the money to the hungry and needy homeless people. This is horrible!!! What a waste of fabrics. Noone buys that stuff. They live off bags only. Menswear is even more dismal. Nicolas feels so dated…
 
There are few amazing things but as a whole it feels unfocused, there is no clear message. Nicolas' best collections were created around two or three elements and heavily edited, this is what his LV work lacks. I also hate the shoes. Along with Balmain, Vuitton shows always have some of the ugliest shoes. A pair of simple heels would add air to the heavy silhouettes.
 
Can I ask the permission to copy your comment and stick it in the Balenciaga thread?
You can do whatever you please! But i stand behind that i see so many people in the streets of Paris in Balenciaga, and none in Louis Vuitton.
Hence my opinion :-)
 

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