Louis Vuitton Menswear F/W 2023.24 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[LadyJunon]

It's literally just a continuation of Virgil, but with the emotional capacity of a 2 year old.

 

[mom4etozavsi4ko]

This is the first collection since 2017 that I kind of enjoyed. I`m sorry if I sound rude, but it`s a good thing that Virgil is no longer creative director.

 

[Yasouss]

I think this would've worked with a different set (not sure what the point of a children's room is, its juvenile and borderline creepy....) and not sure why Rosalia is there she's a great artist but she hasn't been associated with LV Menswear to my knowledge. some of the styles were also way overstyled.

 

[IndigoHomme]

For me, nothing has been sense here: an Spanish singer (??), the short film before the show, the tiny set and metallic bags out of context.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

An Instagram oriented collection.

Not customer oriented.

 

[LadyJunon]

An Instagram oriented collection. Not customer oriented.

The designer who made this collection, Colm Dillane, will pretty much be replaced next season, so I can see why he didn't bother to make anything sellable.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[THD96]

I find the whole show is such a waste of resources. Weird live performance, an elaborate set but with no POV, nothing to say.
And for what, typical streetwear merchandise, weirdly constructed tailoring, and shallow attempt to create an emotional moment (the written letters looks)

I only like two looks, the coat and jacket with the eye print, I like the surrealistic feeling of them.

It's insane that they keep operating as if nothing happened. Why do the suits act like it's impossible to hire a new designer? The talent is out there, it's not even that hard to look for it.

"Fantastic Imagination", and yet this collection is still so uninspired.

 

[Lola701]

It’s very « spectacular » but never desirable…
The bags are great but indeed it says nothing. Virgil’s work wasn’t great but his personality and his aura made it matter…Or at least, it was enough to make us pay attention.

Rosalia is more Riccardo Tisci for me but I like her.

I must say that this collection makes me think a lot about the breakdancers in Daft Punk’s Around the World music video…

 

[reese06]

I find the whole show is such a waste of resources. Weird live performance, an elaborate set but with no POV, nothing to say.
And for what, typical streetwear merchandise, weirdly constructed tailoring, and shallow attempt to create an emotional moment (the written letters looks)

I only like two looks, the coat and jacket with the eye print, I like the surrealistic feeling of them.

It's insane that they keep operating as if nothing happened. Why do the suits act like it's impossible to hire a new designer? The talent is out there, it's not even that hard to look for it.

"Fantastic Imagination", and yet this collection is still so uninspired.

IDK, if we are to go by the appointments of recent, this is quite the task these days.

A lot of the pieces individually are quite interesting but as a collection it's all over the place. I'm into that grey suit with the fringe trim detail and find the proportion to be interesting but not too out there for the LV man.

I would like to see a lot of the tailoring and outerwear in person because the textiles look interesting and I'm sure the execution will be more luxe than anything Virgil did.

This will sit beautifully in stores and I would actually be interested in buying some of this if I could actually afford LV RTW. That shearling with the vachetta trim.

I'm into this collection but it's clear they need a CD to steer the ship. I can certainly understand why they are not in a rush and appreciate that they are taking their time. Lord knows they can afford to.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

TOXIC FUME SPEWING DUMPSTER FIRE

 

[jeanclaude]

Toys"r"us fashion line...

 

[kenndale]

LV needs a whole revamp. Men's and Women's are so lost.

 

[TaylorBinque]

This is what happen when you have too much budget with no direction. Like I get it, they want to create a spectacle out of the show but nothing clicks here. The set is impressive but also kind of creepy. (We get it, this year you want to push the trunks.) And the Rosalia, god bless her! That performance was all over the place. It adds nothing to the show. And then the main event. The clothes are just a non event. Even under Virgil, there is always a direction. But here it's just pile of overworked mess. The tailoring is so bad. Proportions are off. And the styling. Oh well...

 

[LadyJunon]

Here's the Vogue Runway review:

BY SARAH MOWER

January 19, 2023

Rosalia jumped on the roof of a vintage yellow car and performed in a super-puffer and XXXL track pants, and Colm Dillane came out on stage in a green bucket hat with the whole menswear team. In between, there’d been a Louis Vuitton menswear collective composite of an event, collaged from Colm’s ideas, the styling contributions of Ibrahim Kamara, a set conceived by the Gondry brothers—and a film by them which went out on LV channels, though was not seen by the audience—in a tent in the Cour Carrée du Louvre.

Attention grabbing communication combined with cult item creation is the giant luxury brand game these days. That’s not just the case with the Louis Vuitton menswear department, of course, although this brand has entered a phase of taking special care over what’s to be done about creative continuity since the tragic loss of the man who uniquely convened such a vast global community around it.

Bringing in Dillane with his can-do, cheerful, collaborative personality, and his Brooklyn self-taught anything-can-be-done hussle is one measure of the company’s will to keep the flame of Virgil Abloh’s legacy burning. In the official phrase, Dillane was “embedded” within the maison—that is, working with Abloh’s remaining studio team. Along with Kamara, they actioned his ideas about re-doing classic menswear suiting and respecting the universal language of track suits, hoodies, and trainers at the same level—and with witty, surreal messaging and references to Black culture to go with it.

Another possibility is that the naive name and hand-drawn artwork of Dillane’s own brand, KidSuper, had a bearing on it. His multicolored child-like paintings of people and domestic interiors were hyper-elaborated into Vuitton patchworked tracksuits and jacquarded onto a suit, formal coat, and a souvenir LV Keepall.

The link there is that Abloh always spoke about the importance of remembering and cherishing the child within the adult—a symbol to him of hope. And that turned out to be the trope that was conjured up again in the set for this show—rooms in a house in which a child had grown up to be a man.

As Rosalia sang, models could be seen behind her rummaging through a Louis Vuitton trunk to find packed-away childhood toys. Program notes detailed the idea of millennial rites of passage, teenage bedrooms, and early memories of playing on computers.

When the models emerged onto the runway at the perimeter of the set, they were wearing mash-ups of classical cuts, suits with twisted middles, and—it being the trend of the season—several long slim tailored coats. Dillane’s input included faces patchworked in leather in neutral colors on LV monogram casual wear, backpacks, and a bucket hat.

The collective nature of the show—some of this, some of that, and a lot of individual items to chat about—made it hard to read as a coherent narrative. Above and beyond that, the maison’s superb ability to innovate wildly luxurious techniques was in no doubt. What might happen next with LV remains to be seen. Dillane’s graffiti in yellow on a gray topcoat seemed to say that: “Blurry Vision of a Bright Future,” it read.

If you actually read in between the lines here, you can see that they literally admits that Louis Vuitton refuses to move on from Virgil. It's pathetic really.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Watching the live stream felt like a fever dream. I had no f*cking clue what was happening and why Rosalia there on top of car then just laying about with all those looks jump cutting in and out of view.

Just felt like a pointless exercise in the end. Surplus to it's own existence.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Here's the Vogue Runway review:
If you actually read in between the lines here, you can see that they literally admits that Louis Vuitton refuses to move on from Virgil. It's pathetic really.

Good for Sarah for being honest yet tactful.

This was a miserable collection and I would hate to have to talk about it when I know the brand is paying the bills.