Louis Vuitton Menswear S/S 2024 Paris | Page 5 | the Fashion Spot
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Louis Vuitton Menswear S/S 2024 Paris

Designers like Nicolas Ghesquiere, Hedi Slimane or Raf Simons have had their opportunities to build houses of their own and decided instead to live handsomely as hired creatives for these brands. Perhaps the urge to aquire art collections and properties they can design is where the greater passion lies the longer they play the game.
Hedi has been consistent in his beliefs since 2001. This isn't anything new. It is only surprising because there is this insurmountable chasm between the consumer and creator perspective. Neither one is morally superior over the other, but it is a mistake for a consumer to judge the creator without being able to understand the creator's mindset. Hedi has said one of the things that motivates him to be a custodian to the grandes marques is because he wants to give a different perspective to something that everybody already knows. An analogy used by Hedi is that he would rather have a position in the government to enact wide sweeping reforms than have his own small independent party. I empathize with consumers who just can't fathom to understand his perspective. There will always be a language barrier between the mindset of a consumer and a creator. While you're allowed to have your opinion, it is very misinformed.

The industry is in a state of revolt and while it's alarming that most opportunities lie in digital markets, I am starting to feel more hopeful that an educated, reflected consumer will be increasingly less enticed by the prestige of big brands the more aggressively they are being marketed.
I'm actually starting to think the opposite is going to happen. I think the grandes marques are stronger than ever. The proof is in the numbers, at the end of the day.
 
I find the whole collection downright ugly. I don't think any of this will look good in three years. And LV bringing in Pharrell to try and make British schoolboy short pants a trend in men's wear in laughable. The accessories are nonsense. The shoes in look 15?! Look 48?!
This makes Olivier look like a master!
 
Hedi has been consistent in his beliefs since 2001. This isn't anything new. It is only surprising because there is this insurmountable chasm between the consumer and creator perspective. Neither one is morally superior over the other, but it is a mistake for a consumer to judge the creator without being able to understand the creator's mindset. Hedi has said one of the things that motivates him to be a custodian to the grandes marques is because he wants to give a different perspective to something that everybody already knows. An analogy used by Hedi is that he would rather have a position in the government to enact wide sweeping reforms than have his own small independent party. I empathize with consumers who just can't fathom to understand his perspective. There will always be a language barrier between the mindset of a consumer and a creator. While you're allowed to have your opinion, it is very misinformed.
Another element to this is scale and time. When one has the budget, hands and caché of a corporate house, they have the opportunity to execute their vision to the higher standards to present to a large audience. On top of that, the right to do so is dictated by a timed contract of 2 to 5 years rather than the immediate success of the previous collection.

Olivier Theyskens is a very good example of this. Despite the relatively large budget he had (funded by the salary at Theory), he produced three collections, SS'17, FW'17 and SS'18 (the show of which was sabotaged by YSL) before the sales of his first collection could actually be cycled in to produce his fourth (FW'18). 2018 and 2019 were good years for him, allowing to move operations out of his apartment and create more and more of his dramatic pieces. The pandemic comes and wrecks this. Luckily at that point, he had the support of Azzaro, giving him the time to switch to his new production model. I'm not sure how successful this approach is, because while I've seen those dresses everywhere, his unexplained absence from fashion week in February was a bit worrying.

I'm actually starting to think the opposite is going to happen. I think the grandes marques are stronger than ever. The proof is in the numbers, at the end of the day.
This is very true, but I'm extremely worried that the proverbial elastic is going to snap or bounce back violently one day.
 
I find the whole collection downright ugly. I don't think any of this will look good in three years. And LV bringing in Pharrell to try and make British schoolboy short pants a trend in men's wear in laughable. The accessories are nonsense. The shoes in look 15?! Look 48?!
This makes Olivier look like a master!
Which Olivier, because one of them doesn't need this to look good in comparison... :rofl:
 
Hedi has been consistent in his beliefs since 2001. This isn't anything new. It is only surprising because there is this insurmountable chasm between the consumer and creator perspective. Neither one is morally superior over the other, but it is a mistake for a consumer to judge the creator without being able to understand the creator's mindset. Hedi has said one of the things that motivates him to be a custodian to the grandes marques is because he wants to give a different perspective to something that everybody already knows. An analogy used by Hedi is that he would rather have a position in the government to enact wide sweeping reforms than have his own small independent party. I empathize with consumers who just can't fathom to understand his perspective. There will always be a language barrier between the mindset of a consumer and a creator. While you're allowed to have your opinion, it is very misinformed.


I'm actually starting to think the opposite is going to happen. I think the grandes marques are stronger than ever. The proof is in the numbers, at the end of the day.

Oh make no mistake, I made peace a long time ago that any one of these designers made the decisions to never go with a solo venture of their own and decided instead to stay within the well-oiled infrastructures of established 'maisons'... unlike their retired predecessors Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang or Jil Sander, who wished to never open their artistic ouevre for cash grab products like logo merchandise, handbag or sneaker lines that attract a totally different audiences. The very thought of excessive celebrity endorsement, generated hype or a show turned into a multi-media spectacle now common place among the big conglomerates would feel wrong for a brand like Dries Van Noten for good reasons.

Olivier Theyskens made an interesting point in an interview some years ago in which the legacy of historic brands and their impact on fashion history becomes changed depending on who owns it. Dior invested heavily to cement the legacy of Christian Dior as one of the most important figures in fashion although his own tenure lasted for a very short time and the New Look was not as groundbreaking as that of Christobal Balenciaga, Madame Grès or Madeleine Vionnet (Andrew Bolton, Pamela Golbin or Olivier Saillard would agree). That is probably why the public interest in Jeanne Lanvin's work decreased when the company went downhill after the departure of Alber Elbaz.

Yes, we are at a time when the omnipresence of the major luxury goods brands have reached a climax. It's a dark mirror to our society as a whole where the gap between the very rich and the middle class is widening more and more. With the quality of leather goods decreasing at houses like Chanel and more celebrities are being appointed as creative directors instead of seasoned design talent, I can only assume an increasing niche demand for "quiet luxury" will form as an alternative.
 
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gfycat.com
 
Myślę, że motyw szachownicy był przesadzony. Za to torby bardzo mi się spodobały.
 

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