Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2024 Shanghai

I think its a fabulous collection. NG has formed a clear concise Louis Vuitton vision. that was not there before. It fits right in alongside French futurism like P Cardin or Le Corbusier. Its supposed to look like spaceship wear. This is what makes sense as a contemporary proposition when you live in a design paradise like Paris. Its like the idea of the Louvre Pyramid. contemporary juxtaposed against iconic.

The finale pieces are just glorious. That graphite silk duchess bubble skirt dress is perfection. The zipped jacket with fur colar was also perfect. The let downs were those biker inspired leather pants. I love the embroidered denim shorts.

Those soft trunk bags are a 10 to me. I love that bunny print so much…the embroidered denim with the fitted orange top is sensational.
 
Last edited:
It's a great collection. And he picks the right location for the show.
What I think was really fabulous about this show is despite being a commercial collection Nicolas still makes it fashionable and fun. He just proved that a pre-collection show doesn't have to be a parade of merchandise, you can make it fun and exciting, I mean if you already make people travel all around the world at least put out something worth their time.

This collection would translate so well into the store. I think the merchandise team can just sell the whole look. MAS did a great job with the styling. It's a great conversation between her and Nicolas, they hit the right spot of elevating the commercial pieces without making them over-complicated.
He covered all the categories so seamlessly. The day wear and outerwears are great, the jacket in look 52 is just scream my name. And the evening wear is beautiful classic but with the Nicolas twist.
And the shoes and bags are cute.

Another hit from Nicolas. Bravo.
 
Not a single look that I like. Most of it are a regurgitation of his past collections. His usual hideous prints. And the first part is so embarrassing to look at...it´s like "hey Nico, you forgot one look!":

006.jpg

prada.com

Those kind of kitsch-y prints and embellishment were already an eyesore when they appeared on duchess satin at Prada many years ago and I was reliefed to banish them from one of my customer's wardrobe when she started to consult me for styling and personal shopping - It's the kind of clothes whose detailing one easily gets tired off, doesn't pair well with anything and therefor usually ends up being that impulsive buy in the back of someone's wardrobe that never sees more than one or two occasions to wear.

I get that, the woman gravitating towards Ghesquiere's Vuitton enjoys her clothes to be capital 'F' fashion but I wished a little bit of the classicism that a lot of designers are feeling these days (best exemplified by what Hedi Slimane's Celine is all about) would also arrive with Ghesquiere sometime - A bit less clashing color and detailing, something emphasizing just the great cut of his clothes. Something looking a little less 'busy' and 'trying very hard'.
 
I love the fun and young feel but dress 3, they should have known better.
 
I get that, the woman gravitating towards Ghesquiere's Vuitton enjoys her clothes to be capital 'F' fashion but I wished a little bit of the classicism that a lot of designers are feeling these days (best exemplified by what Hedi Slimane's Celine is all about) would also arrive with Ghesquiere sometime - A bit less clashing color and detailing, something emphasizing just the great cut of his clothes. Something looking a little less 'busy' and 'trying very hard'.
Is it the case though?
Don’t get me wrong, I like buying statement pieces but the idea is to wear them in my everyday life, not parade as a Fashion person. And because I love the cut of his jackets and pants, I can approach it from a wardrobe perspective.

But I think you touch maybe on the most unsettling thing people have with Nicolas.

At Balenciaga, he gave people a look! Outfits were styled in a very precise but approachable way. That thing was still the case in his earlier Vuitton collections.

Now, it’s maybe more playful, more pieces oriented than outfits, so, the constant clashes can be exhausting.

There are less busy silhouettes in this collection but I don’t necessarily imagine myself wearing them like that even if I love them on the runway.

Wearing the Lauréate boots with a gown, or even buying the Lauréate boots is not something I would ever do.
 
The collection is already available in pre-order on their website, but it's a bit frustating that the most interesting pieces aren't offered, or are heavily modified... Those embroidered denim shorts are rather different than the runway pieces, not bad but much less exciting...
 
Is it the case though?
Don’t get me wrong, I like buying statement pieces but the idea is to wear them in my everyday life, not parade as a Fashion person. And because I love the cut of his jackets and pants, I can approach it from a wardrobe perspective.

But I think you touch maybe on the most unsettling thing people have with Nicolas.

At Balenciaga, he gave people a look! Outfits were styled in a very precise but approachable way. That thing was still the case in his earlier Vuitton collections.

Now, it’s maybe more playful, more pieces oriented than outfits, so, the constant clashes can be exhausting.

There are less busy silhouettes in this collection but I don’t necessarily imagine myself wearing them like that even if I love them on the runway.

Wearing the Lauréate boots with a gown, or even buying the Lauréate boots is not something I would ever do.

But are the kind of clothes seen on the runway and now on Vuitton's website really the ones that allow you to build a wardrobe around or are customers who buy these clothes getting bored of wearing something with loud detailing after a few wears (like those cartoon prints on the bottom of a shift dress, mini skirt or car coat, or the the embroidered pastel pink utility vest and bermuda shorts combo)?

I mean sure, I bet they have a simple wool crepe pant suit in the boutique but when we get to that level of basic, I think Celine gives you better tailored separates that don't feel like the most watered-down version of the runway. I would like to see something for once from Nicolas that's centered around essential garments, things that cut on all the headscratching gimmicks (such as the trail of chiffon poking out from underneath a mini skirt or that off-the-shoulder belt attached to a 60ies shift dress) in favor of updating classics by clever means of pattern engineering.
 
The collection is already available in pre-order on their website, but it's a bit frustating that the most interesting pieces aren't offered, or are heavily modified... Those embroidered denim shorts are rather different than the runway pieces, not bad but much less exciting...
I was browsing through the collection online yesterday. I guess not all pieces are available via online platform. For some pieces you might need to order from the boutique And some might never get produced. They are really pushing the first several looks of the artist collaboration.

Nowadays with social media and more access to the boutiques and contact with some sales associates, I get the chance to see pieces and pre-order lists. What surprises me is that the Vuitton womenswear price seems more "reasonable" vs. those menswear pieces. Overprice indeed, but those Pharrell pieces are charging too high prices with so little design elements...
 
I have realized why I don´t like NG at LV: because he seems obsessed in dressing women as trunks. Big LV trunks with metal hardware, logos; and boxy volumes.

I know it´s Vuitton...but there is no need to be so literal!
there is truth to your point ....even if he was always into over detailed collage/ hybrids off design elements mixed in one piece .....its true he could practice more restrain and refinement ...he needs a dose of hedi´s sharp edited normality ..a touch of Lo-fi even
 
I was browsing through the collection online yesterday. I guess not all pieces are available via online platform. For some pieces you might need to order from the boutique And some might never get produced. They are really pushing the first several looks of the artist collaboration.

Nowadays with social media and more access to the boutiques and contact with some sales associates, I get the chance to see pieces and pre-order lists. What surprises me is that the Vuitton womenswear price seems more "reasonable" vs. those menswear pieces. Overprice indeed, but those Pharrell pieces are charging too high prices with so little design elements...
menswear pieces since Virgil have become part of hype beast culture so reselling LV mens wear have become the norm, so they are capitalizing on this with higher starting prices which creates also artificial scarcity and hype /fomo ----they are selling culture to the culture :-)
 
I just never considered theyre supposed to be trunks…

These clothes go perfectly with hedi celine. Celine basics with a LV statement fish fin zip top. Trop Chic.

I mean thats sort of my formula. Like a sculpture on a pedestal … clean restrained with an avant garde piece crowning the stele.
 
I just never considered theyre supposed to be trunks…

i dont get it. These clothes go perfectly with hedi celine. Celine basics with a NG statement fish fin zip top. Trop Chic.

I mean thats sort of my formula. Like a sculpture on a pedestal … clean restrained with an avant garde piece crowning the stele.
i never seen or know girls or women that mix Hedi Celine with NG LV (it could work thats not what i am saying ), i think its mostly not the same type of woman or girl ...a celine girl or woman has more cross over with ralph lauren idea of luxury and live a sense of reality understood universally as a rich elegance type of idea rooted in euro classicism
 
But are the kind of clothes seen on the runway and now on Vuitton's website really the ones that allow you to build a wardrobe around or are customers who buy these clothes getting bored of wearing something with loud detailing after a few wears (like those cartoon prints on the bottom of a shift dress, mini skirt or car coat, or the the embroidered pastel pink utility vest and bermuda shorts combo)?

I mean sure, I bet they have a simple wool crepe pant suit in the boutique but when we get to that level of basic, I think Celine gives you better tailored separates that don't feel like the most watered-down version of the runway. I would like to see something for once from Nicolas that's centered around essential garments, things that cut on all the headscratching gimmicks (such as the trail of chiffon poking out from underneath a mini skirt or that off-the-shoulder belt attached to a 60ies shift dress) in favor of updating classics by clever means of pattern engineering.
The basic from Nicolas in the Vuitton stores, and some on the website are pretty much in line with what he did at Balenciaga in terms of cut. I can do a minimal monogram tag or detail rather than a whole monogram lining.

But as I said many times, I’m probably a minority in his clientele at Vuitton who buys clothes because they are Vuitton and who want people to let it known it’s Vuitton. I buy his clothes because it’s Nicolas…

A simple thing: I love his shoulders and lapels.

And I totally love the idea of falling in and out of love with some pieces.
I don’t mind a loud print here and there…

I like what Hedi does, I respect what he does but I would go for Hedi for the basic of the basic: a peacoat, a vareuse, a kind of very hard to identify stuff.
The only piece I bought from him was a grey tuxedo menswear suit with a salmon satin shirt.

I actually prefer Hedi menswear on me than his womenswear.

I like the twist of Nicolas’s clothes even if, I must admit that I’m a very simple dresser. I don’t feel like women who are buying his clothes are trying to mimic the runway look.

I love the asymetrical black skirt. I would probably wear it with a flowy blouse.

I was browsing through the collection online yesterday. I guess not all pieces are available via online platform. For some pieces you might need to order from the boutique And some might never get produced.
It’s exactly that.
Essentially, with Vuitton, the best way to acquire a runway piece you really want is to pre-order it with your SA once you have seen the show or went to the Resee.

But with prefall, everything is produced. There are boutiques exclusives, some stores buys specific things, some items are produced in ridiculous limited quantities (2 worldwide). It’s the same for most big brands anyway nowadays.

I must admit that I have stopped the pre-order game. The pressure to purchase is a bit much. I only shop from what is available in stores. The stores I shop from have great selections…
 
I feel like the collection is successful, but hyper ephemeral, disposable. The toy prints are very cute, but novelties. Honestly, that's a me problem at this point lol, LV isn't changing.

I do like seeing some prices straight after the runway, 980 EUR for a t-shirt seems appropriate lol.
 
I think Nicolas Ghesquiere is probably the most underrated designer in the consciousness of today's generation of Tik Tok/IG fashion fans. Either they praise Cristobal's Balenciaga, or they spit on Demna, but Nicolas tenure is absolutely not mentioned. I'm pretty sure they think JW Anderson or Daniel Roseberry are more talented than NG, my *** 🤣.
Even the likes of Martin Margiela Phoebe Philo got more praises than him from Tik Tok crowds lol. They even think Raf Simon is elevating Prada menswear
 
Last edited:
I think Nicolas Ghesquiere is probably the most underrated designer in the consciousness of today's generation of Tik Tok/IG fashion fans. Either they praise Cristobal's Balenciaga, or they spit on Demna, but Nicolas tenure is absolutely not mentioned. I'm pretty sure they think JW Anderson or Daniel Roseberry are more talented than NG, my *** 🤣.
Even the likes of Martin Margiela Phoebe Philo got more praises than him from Tik Tok crowds lol. They even think Raf Simon is elevating Prada menswear

The truth is that he hasn’t had a big wow moment at LV. The collections are good, but they don’t vary much from one to the other. It’s simply not memorable. Sales are so good, that he doesn’t really have to try that hard. It’s easy to tell that he knows he doesn’t have anything to prove. I wish he would use that to his advantage to push fashion forward.
 
Very bold collection. The toy prints, the colors, the shapes are all big statements.

I'm happy Nicolas is not doing quiet luxury (whatever that is), but instead he's proposing a sort of modern maximalist wardrope. It's like Michele's Gucci but without the granny vintage thing. A great option for women who want to look chic without dressing like they're going to a funeral.
 
As much as I loved Ghesquière and as much as he will always be one of my cherised fashion heroes, I never got the appeal of what he has done at Vuitton. It is not chic. I find it quite gimmicky and uninspired. 0 refinement. It is like he doesn't care about fashion that much since he left Balenciaga.

With these big designers from the 00s I feel that once they got super rich, they kind of left fashion aside and started enjoying life.
I agree I think he's a great designer who really sits down and designs sketches but this does nothing for me there are some really nice wonderful things but it was just to Junior. but I'm sure the Chinese and Asian markets will love it.
 
I think Nicolas Ghesquiere is probably the most underrated designer in the consciousness of today's generation of Tik Tok/IG fashion fans. Either they praise Cristobal's Balenciaga, or they spit on Demna, but Nicolas tenure is absolutely not mentioned. I'm pretty sure they think JW Anderson or Daniel Roseberry are more talented than NG, my *** 🤣.
Even the likes of Martin Margiela Phoebe Philo got more praises than him from Tik Tok crowds lol. They even think Raf Simon is elevating Prada menswear
Don't you think its better that way him/his work not being on the radar of Tik Tok crowd, seems everything that get to much tik tok attention get destroyed and distorted and made simplified/banal .....LV sales are doing fine without more attention of tik tok, as its already a hyper visible brand ...and one the of the reasons NG was asked to do LV was to counterbalance this super commercial well know brand with peak high octane dose of dare i say it (intellectual/challenging )forward looking fashion.

JW Anderson output is visually more easy to get the joke by mainstream also he is more clever with communication of product this NG lacks the ads are not giving or adding/twisting the idea of the shows etc

Daniel Roseberry work is Disney creativity easy understood as pretty with some edgy twist.

etc.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

New Posts

Forum Statistics

Threads
212,520
Messages
15,187,851
Members
86,404
Latest member
MoonMoth
Back
Top
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"
<-- Admiral -->