Luar F/W 2023.24 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Salvatore]

Poor man’s Balenciaga by Demna.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ That's being too kind, Salvatore. There's such an exhausting, reductive level of Demna-wannabes out there that it’s become expected— but not on this sloppy level of 1st-year student craftsmanship.

It’s so poorly-constructed and ill-fitting that all the looks resemble mangled, walking sleeping bags. It’s very evident that he’s immensely driven by his ego rather than any design talent: Maybe he's better off as an assistant stylist to Law Roach. Why these types lack any sense of self-awareness, humility and patience to hone the very needed hard-earned discipline of tailoring/dressmaking before anything else just shows their hunger for fame and fortune— and with that “graphic design is my passion” monogram plastered everywhere to boot LOL

 

[Salvatore]

He’s connected to Law Roach ? That explains everything.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Lately I dont understand NYFW

 

[LadyJunon]

If the construction wasn't so repulsively sloppy, I'd actually like this collection.

Out of morbid curiosity, I had a look to see what they actually sell under the website and it's essentially just counterfeit Chiquitos and logoed ties. A couple of their stockists sell a few heavily discounted basics and logoed t-shirts, but most of them just do bags.

Even Jacquemus is more well-rounded as a brand than this.

 

[GERGIN]

I question some of the people I follow on IG who are praising this person “he’s the most anticipated show of NYFW!” .

Agree with everyone stating he’s a poor mans’ Demna-Balenciaga. The taste level of New York fashion is quickly getting worse!

 

[MulletProof]

Lately I dont understand NYFW

Lately? .. I frankly do not understand why NYFW even exists. Most fraudulent and corrosive event in fashion. It's the entrance door for all the scammers, D-list celebrities, talentless hacks, influencers, 2-item label "founders"/"girl bosses", bottom-feeders, p*rn stars/escorts playing art hoes and other social climbers to pay their way into a relatively secure platform in the industry, receive validation and slowly migrate to other decent areas where they can truly taint whatever good is left and with long-term effects. Look at the f*cking Row, Kanye and the Kardashians.

If NYFW would cease to exist, shows like this one and all of these people acting like starved dogs wanting to get in (as mentioned in the Vogue review)... where would they go? they would have to do the absolute worst to earn their way into more competitive cities where talent is still mildly relevant: get an education and think about design.

And yeah, unless the Law Roach mention is a joke (can't think of a better insult lol), that does explain everything about this show and again, it's NYFW in a nutshell.

Also.. I'll pretend I never saw what he's wearing but.. his neck?, can't change the cards we're dealt but yes to the game we play: go Kayan, get a neck ring.

 

[Bugsy]

These women look like someone rolled them up in carpet. Anti-fashion. Fugly = f-ing ugly!!!!

 

[Machinegumm]

I'm in awe of any designer who can make 5'11 models look frumpy. Truly a talent.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Look 2 is not that awful, not wonderful but it gave me false hopes. I don’t know if the styling -and garments are worst in the music video hot babe section or in the homeless Quasimodo one…it’s very sad seeing these people wanting to “innovate” and “disrupt” but looking at these it’s evident they couldn’t design their way out of a wet paper bag.

The trashy logo reminds of Baby Phat or something equally repulsive.

 

[MulletProof]

it’s very sad seeing these people wanting to “innovate” and “disrupt” but looking at these it’s evident they couldn’t design their way out of a wet paper bag.

Yeah. They’re just too lazy and intellectually challenged to understand that you cannot disrupt anything before mastering it. This is why McQueen was good at what he did, and the Japanese of course.. you need to fully understand something in order to challenge it.

Also the idea that you should disrupt anything in fashion lol: fashion is a suburban mall at this point, just a bunch of old, meaningless chains and the sad businesses that want to be like the chains (cough.. this). The most revolutionary thing anyone can do right now is to build and create and to do so outside the established parameters (including the fashion week AND show templates).. to understand it and yet reject it completely, but the idea alone is too scandalous and turns anyone into a diehard conservative because.. actual hard work + they’d get busted.

 

[LadyJunon]

The most revolutionary thing anyone can do right now is to build and create and to do so outside the established parameters (including the fashion week AND show templates).. to understand it and yet reject it completely, but the idea alone is too scandalous and turns anyone into a diehard conservative because.. actual hard work + they’d get busted.

Lots of digitally native brands often skip the fashion show and deliver straight to the audience, which is pragmatic, even if it does, these days, eventually lead to a dried-up market-obeying business instead of a liberated designer.

That said, the concept of having 40+ models wear divinely elegant clothing while walking through far-flung locations, accompanied with dramatic music, dynamic cinematography and no physical audience whatsoever is just too seductive for me to outright reject.

Fashion week itself, however, can burn.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

There’s like 2 or 3 okay pieces in all of this. The rest is a reductive mess and once again makes me ask why is this here?

If you’re going to make references to other designers, you really need to hone your skills and discipline to make it your own. This is not that. Like Laquan, the mood board/designer inspirations is as clear as blue skies.

 

[Phuel]

That said, the concept of having 40+ models wear divinely elegant clothing while walking through far-flung locations, accompanied with dramatic music, dynamic cinematography and no physical audience whatsoever is just too seductive for me to outright reject.

Fashion week itself, however, can burn.

Yes.The fashion dream and ideal standards of the highest should never be abandoned, nor lowered in high fashion. It’s because it has been lowered so low it’s non-existent, that fashion is at the state it is in currently.

I hope that he really didn’t use such tired terms as “disrupt” and “innovate” when he’s blatantly picking up Demna’s old scraps from Seasons past LOL People that use lazy buzzwords like “disrupt/patriarchy/colonial” to manufacture urgency to their formulated fluff already reveal themselves as having absolutely nothing of substance worthy of “disrupting” and “innovating". It’s all as corporate as the supposed hierarchy that they’re phantom-challenging. Put that faux-rage marketing into some night courses to better your skills at tailoring/dressmaking. Or hire people who can do better.

I knew someone in my senior year at a high school that sewed her own clothes; she even made her own suits. She had no training, and just followed store-bought patterns. And her initial suitings has the exact look as these— with its uneven, puffy, puckering fit, and lopsided structure as these designs. But she learned and got better. In 2023, her beginner’s slop would qualify to show at NYFW as a professional label. Why the CFDA/IMG/NYFW has absolutely no standards anymore by allowing the likes of Christian Cowan/Tia Adeola/Luar showcase is such a hilarious and pathetic sign of the times.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Raul was doing these kinds of clothes YEARS ago when Demna still worked for Vuitton and Raul was one half of Hood by Air and still showing in underground nightclubs.

I was there.

But yes, they were shoddy then and they're still shoddy now.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ That makes this all even more obnoxious and intolerable. Over a decade and he’s still on the level of amateur sewing. Wow.

 

[LadyJunon]

Raul was doing these kinds of clothes YEARS ago when Demna still worked for Vuitton and Raul was one half of Hood by Air and still showing in underground nightclubs.

I was there.

But yes, they were shoddy then and they're still shoddy now.

It's quite shameful when the copy is better executed than the original. I bet Martine Rose feels like sh*t too.

 

[MulletProof]

Lots of digitally native brands often skip the fashion show and deliver straight to the audience, which is pragmatic, even if it does, these days, eventually lead to a dried-up market-obeying business instead of a liberated designer.

That said, the concept of having 40+ models wear divinely elegant clothing while walking through far-flung locations, accompanied with dramatic music, dynamic cinematography and no physical audience whatsoever is just too seductive for me to outright reject.

Fashion week itself, however, can burn.

Yeah it’s a problem if you find the current establishment too incompetent that you feel the need to skip any presentation and directly cater ubereats-style.

Theatricality, music, spectacle, commentary, showmanship, arts involvement, etc are not exclusive at all of the current monopoly established by some corrupt gatekeeper committee in each of the four main cities. You also don’t need a ‘a trail’ of 65 looks, or to even think in ‘collection’ terms, let alone rely on ‘ambassadors’, give any meaning to a ‘front row’ which suggests seats.. and, why seats really? haha why are you limiting movement among the audience?. Art, industrial design, other similar expos and fairs for other similar showings, they move cities and allow visitors to move as well and definitely do not show as a series of parades lmao. Do I have a specific idea in mind? no, because there shouldn’t be one but to use an example of someone who’s lately been able to override some of this is Olivier.. it remains ‘magical’ but he doesn’t really need the parade, collection and sitting audience format and definitely not models. And I say ‘some’ because he still needs to show in Paris and complies with the calendar.. you can’t go too wild on your own. It needs to be a solid collective that openly shuns the system but that it also challenges and demoralizes it (so showing in some filthy warehouse/nightclub/restaurant is not it either lol..).

This won’t come from anyone of the currently employed generations anyway. Maybe with the children of millennials..