Luar S/S 2025 New York

Other than heatstroke inducing materials (for which crotch windows seem to be the only relief) and strange fetishistic flights of fancy there doesn’t seem to be much going on, not even sexiness for crying out loud. In short: A lot of mediocre copies of already quite tacky designers.
 
What is this actually trying to say? I don't understand Luar. It makes zero sense and always looks like it's purpose it to just be "there" and nothing else. I want to say it is underdeveloped but I also wouldn't know how to develop it further to make it better or less nonsensical.
 
What is this actually trying to say? I don't understand Luar. It makes zero sense and always looks like it's purpose it to just be "there" and nothing else. I want to say it is underdeveloped but I also wouldn't know how to develop it further to make it better or less nonsensical.
It’s the symptom of modern fashion.

“Designers” are not thinking hard enough…or thinking at all…about what purpose their clothes serve. They’re not concerned with who this is all for - beyond themselves. Their work is really for themselves and their ego.
 
It’s the symptom of modern fashion.

“Designers” are not thinking hard enough…or thinking at all…about what purpose their clothes serve. They’re not concerned with who this is all for - beyond themselves. Their work is really for themselves and their ego.

Remember a time when Latin-American designers would only conjure the most refined and exquisite of standards: Narciso Rodriguez, Victor Alfaro, Sybilla…???

You’re giving someone like him way too much credit by expecting the same high standards that the past generation of American designers worked, lived and breathed by. HIs is all about ripping off the scraps of Demna/JW/Rick Owens, rebranding it with a Bronx ghey attitude to snatch likes/follows on social from children, to sucker sheep into buying plain grey pants/hoodies/tees. At least he’s a tad above someone like Willy Chavarria, whose caricature of the worst of Latin stereotypes would have Narciso/Victor/Sybilla weeping.

I’m convinced that it’s grants that keep this label around. Even investors wouldn’t be this clueless to burn money into this. But if this is all self-sustained because the label is actually profitable, then… good for him. And sadly would indeed be symptomatic of these dire fashion days.
 
Remember a time when Latin-American designers would only conjure the most refined and exquisite of standards: Narciso Rodriguez, Victor Alfaro, Sybilla…???

You’re giving someone like him way too much credit by expecting the same high standards that the past generation of American designers worked, lived and breathed by. HIs is all about ripping off the scraps of Demna/JW/Rick Owens, rebranding it with a Bronx ghey attitude to snatch likes/follows on social from children, to sucker sheep into buying plain grey pants/hoodies/tees. At least he’s a tad above someone like Willy Chavarria, whose caricature of the worst of Latin stereotypes would have Narciso/Victor/Sybilla weeping.

I’m convinced that it’s grants that keep this label around. Even investors wouldn’t be this clueless to burn money into this. But if this is all self-sustained because the label is actually profitable, then… good for him. And sadly would indeed be symptomatic of these dire fashion days.
Remember, this isn't the generation of excellence and beauty, this is the generation of pseudo-intellectual commentaries that are extremely insular and narrow in their appeal. These designers are having their moment, but the second their audience hits 30 and starts lives outside of the subcultural club scene, it's "rebrand-or-perish" for them.
 
Remember a time when Latin-American designers would only conjure the most refined and exquisite of standards: Narciso Rodriguez, Victor Alfaro, Sybilla…???

Totally agree with your assessment of this “fashion house”. IMHO the type of designers that Luar and Chavarria are is very reflective of the obsession with ethnicity that has only become more pronounced with Americans, of course you cannot be a Latino and dress Park Avenue dames in refined shifts like Narciso, you’ve got to go out of your way to “represent” your culture and ethnicity…something which I’d prefer they refrained from doing seeing what has come out of it. You cannot just put out ch0lo chic wares on a runway and call yourself ,not just a designer, but a designer with a conscious and a purpose, especially not when the clothes themselves are so badly made!

One correction though, Sybilla is American born and later in life she naturalized as Spanish. I agree that she’s a designer’s designer that’s taken her fashions to heights way out of these try-hards’ reach.
 
What I’m always confused about that young wave of American designers we have got for the past 20 years is that they put so much emphasis on the idea of culture and tribe but not on quality.
It was already an issue with Alexander Wang 20 years ago (and he hasn’t improved one bit).

So there’s this huge disconnect between brands that are doing decent quality clothes, dressing young professional, selling an aspirational idea of fashion for a lot of people and those brands like Luar and others, pushing that idea of community while delivering terrible quality.
 

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