Lutz Huelle S/S 2018 Paris
- Thread starter donyan
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yes , all WWD , sorry
Phuel
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There’s a light.
The refinement and restraint in a modern deconstructive approach that’s challenging and skillfully presented. Unique and gorgeous clash of textures and graphic design. Oh my god— there is a light. Imagine that… Not a single editorial-bait, nor InstaBait… And not an obnoxious logo/monogram in sight. The idea of designer clothes being design driven… Blows the minds.
All the lessers with their sloppy DIY patchworked basics and InstaBbaiting, that as eugenius pointed out on that other thread— looks like reference by a 2 minute google search, can’t even come close in his wildest dreams.
(Get rid of those jeans with the block cut-out please.)
The refinement and restraint in a modern deconstructive approach that’s challenging and skillfully presented. Unique and gorgeous clash of textures and graphic design. Oh my god— there is a light. Imagine that… Not a single editorial-bait, nor InstaBait… And not an obnoxious logo/monogram in sight. The idea of designer clothes being design driven… Blows the minds.
All the lessers with their sloppy DIY patchworked basics and InstaBbaiting, that as eugenius pointed out on that other thread— looks like reference by a 2 minute google search, can’t even come close in his wildest dreams.
(Get rid of those jeans with the block cut-out please.)
Sarah Mower on Vogue Runway
'The term streetwear has acquired a lot of routine, humdrum associations since it ended up becoming synonymous with hoodies, sweatpants, and trainers. Lutz Huelle, however, is pushing dressing for the street quite another way—his collections elevate practical, weather-resistant clothes to the level of elegance. “I wanted something imposing and exaggerated, but to work out how to wear it to go vegetable shopping or whatever,” he said. “I asked myself how to make clothes for every occasion, but not in the sense of red carpet occasionwear.”
The result, shown in the semi-outdoors, under the colonnade of the Paris bourse, was a collection which smartly balanced couture references with a sense of the cool. After working on shoulder lines in a show positively reviewed by Vogue Runway’s Nicole Phelps, Huelle said he wanted to push volume downwards this time. He ended up with a jacket shape that had wide, flounced sleeves, which inevitably echoed Cristóbal Balenciaga—as did the cocoon-y “bomber” later on—but he made certain to style them in a manner not limited to evening. “It’s actually really practical, weatherproof mackintosh material,” he said of the opening jacket. “The rain would splash off the sleeves!”
If there was something familiar about Huelle’s capturing of street elegance, maybe it’s because he used to work for Martin Margiela, the man. Something about his casting, and the minimal strands of crystal earrings worn by an interesting, mixed-age group of women had that vibe. Lutz as a brand doesn’t aim to be highbrow deconstructionist, but Huelle’s discipline is to make something which is concise and useful out of not very much—a balance of soft, plissé tunic dresses, cut to swirl in motion, worn over narrow pants, and a strong series of outerwear, skillfully patch-worked in denim, lace, brocade, and utility quilting.
Like so many others this season, Huelle worked on the trenchcoat—itself a classic Margiela subject. The best Lutz version was a fusion of tan raincoat and silver-and-black brocade with matching narrow trousers, which came off as a modern suit. The enthusiasm of his audience—which practically tipped over the steps of the bourse—attested to Huelle’s cult status among a European crowd. It’s about time his work was picked up more widely."
I think she hit the nail in the head here, and while this, for me is not his strongest collection ( that was last FW) he seems to finally get the recognition he deserves.
'The term streetwear has acquired a lot of routine, humdrum associations since it ended up becoming synonymous with hoodies, sweatpants, and trainers. Lutz Huelle, however, is pushing dressing for the street quite another way—his collections elevate practical, weather-resistant clothes to the level of elegance. “I wanted something imposing and exaggerated, but to work out how to wear it to go vegetable shopping or whatever,” he said. “I asked myself how to make clothes for every occasion, but not in the sense of red carpet occasionwear.”
The result, shown in the semi-outdoors, under the colonnade of the Paris bourse, was a collection which smartly balanced couture references with a sense of the cool. After working on shoulder lines in a show positively reviewed by Vogue Runway’s Nicole Phelps, Huelle said he wanted to push volume downwards this time. He ended up with a jacket shape that had wide, flounced sleeves, which inevitably echoed Cristóbal Balenciaga—as did the cocoon-y “bomber” later on—but he made certain to style them in a manner not limited to evening. “It’s actually really practical, weatherproof mackintosh material,” he said of the opening jacket. “The rain would splash off the sleeves!”
If there was something familiar about Huelle’s capturing of street elegance, maybe it’s because he used to work for Martin Margiela, the man. Something about his casting, and the minimal strands of crystal earrings worn by an interesting, mixed-age group of women had that vibe. Lutz as a brand doesn’t aim to be highbrow deconstructionist, but Huelle’s discipline is to make something which is concise and useful out of not very much—a balance of soft, plissé tunic dresses, cut to swirl in motion, worn over narrow pants, and a strong series of outerwear, skillfully patch-worked in denim, lace, brocade, and utility quilting.
Like so many others this season, Huelle worked on the trenchcoat—itself a classic Margiela subject. The best Lutz version was a fusion of tan raincoat and silver-and-black brocade with matching narrow trousers, which came off as a modern suit. The enthusiasm of his audience—which practically tipped over the steps of the bourse—attested to Huelle’s cult status among a European crowd. It’s about time his work was picked up more widely."
I think she hit the nail in the head here, and while this, for me is not his strongest collection ( that was last FW) he seems to finally get the recognition he deserves.
