The Girls of Jacquemus S/S16
AnOther speaks to Simon Porte Jacquemus about his casting inspirations for the new season, alongside pre-show portraits of the models he chose to communicate his vision.
Text Ashley Simpson
Photography David Luraschi
Last week, in a vast warehouse on the outskirts of Paris, Simon Porte Jacquemus sent a small child (his cousin, Jean) down a circular runway, pushing a gigantic woven red ball of fabric. This was the beginning of his performative Spring/Summer 2016 runway show – a moving, surrealist vision that had models weaving around the runway in hyper-deconstructed, at times pantless, sometimes one-legged, suit-inspired garments – all while the audience, including members of the general public, sat inside the designer’s day-sleep nightmare. Jacquemus related the presentation back to a season of sickness (the red ball was a red nose) and personal struggles, and the abstract interpretation – complete with the designer himself walking the runway with a regal white horse – lent a gravitas to otherwise characteristically playful clothes. The girls in the show, key to Jacquemus’ creation of Breton-inflected boyswear-for-women, were the sort of independent characters who have come to define his aesthetic.
“I don’t have a focus for one girl,” mused Jacquemus after the show. “If I meet a girl, if I like them, I tell them. I don’t have any rules; it’s instinctive. I say, ‘Oh, she’s good.’ It’s very simple. Reactive." Christian Kjaerulf Praksti of AM Casting, the agency behind the curation of Jacquemus’ singular beauties, echoed the designers’s sentiment. “I think that we were looking for a girl that represented the sort of boyishness that Simon had in this collection, and for a sense of character. Each girl is telling a unique story – and each, in her own way, is almost a piece of Simon. There's something very signature to Simon, which is that he wants a girl to have an underlying quality of intrinsic beauty. Even when a girl is a character, he likes her to be uniquely beautiful." Here, we speak with the girls of the show – some teary-eyed, fresh off the runway – to get a feel for how they captured Jacquemus' S/S16 vision, alongside pre-show portraits by David Luraschi.
Madison Stubbington
Song of the moment?
I like to run to Honey, I’m good by Andy Grammer. Yeah, I like that one. It’s catchy.
Hidden talent?
Well, I don’t know about that, but I spend a lot of my life on Instagram. I follow a lot of food accounts, because I like to cook.
Highlight of the season...
I've gotten to be a part of so many great shows; I can’t really pick one. I guess it's all pretty up there in terms of life experiences…
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