Maison Margiela F/W 2019.20 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[donyan]

it’s s little more restrained. This is a good thing . But i’m still tired of it

 

[Lola701]

Finally! No more theatrics and just beautifully constructed clothes.
I live for the chesterfield or « capitonné » down jackets...The difference is huge when executed by a master (see Virgil!!).

It’s a good collection even if I still feel like John is living in a bubble.
It’s my favorite collection of him so far but yet i’m Not that engaged.

 

[entten]

i hate the bubble hes in right now

 

[TianCouture]

Okay time to end this. Like, now.

 

[dior_couture1245]

What a difference stripping all the theatrics away makes!!

Now that that has been resolved (and it’s so much stronger for it) - I’m realizing what’s missing finally is an element of sensuality. The clothes themselves are, as always, quite strong...extremely well made, inventive and clever. But the shoes bug me here...a bit too Comme maybe? Would have looked better maybe with just the Tabi high heel boots?

Original Margiela was (and is still) really quite sexy in spite of its oddity. This was partially due to the casts - Models were quite different then compared to now and could carry off avante garde clothing with confidence and ease. But overall...in the mix of the challenging, body-morphing proportions, there were just as many looks that were incredibly sensual and sexy and totally believable as a piece to be worn in any woman’s closet.

 

[jeanclaude]

You know it´s Margiela by Galliano looking at the amount of deconstructed trench-coats presented in the collection!

 

[AnaD]

Stripping away the theatrics is a good move, but this show isn't setting me on fire. It's not his best, but it's still good, and at least we can focus squarely on the clothes instead of gimmicks.

 

[Nomar]

Some of this looks heavily influenced by Rei's work.

 

[dodencebt]

I can certainly find a few things I love - the suit with the exaggerated sleeves is the first one that comes to mind - but the collection is mostly leaving me cold. Maybe it's the drab color palette, but I expected something more impactful. Deconstructed trenches aren't enough.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

I wish he could find a more Margiela way to deconstruct. His attempts often end up looking like Comme and Junya, highlighted even more by the shoes and Julien d’Ys hair.

 

[softgrey]

genius...
maybe the best thing he's ever done because it doesn't rely on any bells and whistles...
just very solid design....

this is truly Margiela by Galliano...



I've got a huge respect for Galliano's design talent, but I've never wanted to wear a single piece of it...
that is no longer true...

as for any reference to rei...
to be fair, the margiela customer is the rei customer...
its the same person buying both...
the margiela customer doesn't buy Galliano...or Dior by Galliano...
trying to bring the Galliano customer over to Margiela was always going to be a failure...
this is a much better direction and will appeal to the cult of margiela ...

I'd like to see him continue to explore this direction...
deconstructed tailoring is a great area to focus on, imo...