Maison Margiela Haute Couture F/W 2019.20 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[dior_couture1245]

This one is a mess. I don’t like it.

Plus, I am kind of done with humiliating male models on the catwalk in general.

 

[Salvatore]

Galliano and his Maison Margiela is exhausting. And not in a good way. It literally looks like a pile of mess on top of mess. I tried listening to his podcast on this collection and I turned it off within 10 seconds. i strongly feel that he needs to move to a new fashion house.

 

[Benn98]

Is this Artisanal?

I have no bias when it comes to Galliano, I really do like his designs. For me this collection is way stronger than most standard RTW lines which we are seeing from brands doing the best sales and public approval. From the one-shouldered grey coatdress to the end is perfection. Love the colours, and love the jacket cuts.

 

[perhydrol]

I think this was his best collection for Margiela yet, I mean it was wild and raw yet dark and profound in a way, even if in my opinion his interpretation of MM is usually exhausting and random. This time there was a fresh vibe going on, the collection seems more controlled to me and I just love the deconstruction of traditional couture here.

 

[TianCouture]

This is so referential to some of his Dior work, especially the exposed bustier. There's elements I love here, and elements I hate. Overall, I'm left wondering: if he did this at Dior (which in the early years he kind of did), but more high-octane, would it have been applauded or disregarded?

 

[dior_couture1245]

This is so referential to some of his Dior work, especially the exposed bustier. There's elements I love here, and elements I hate. Overall, I'm left wondering: if he did this at Dior (which in the early years he kind of did), but more high-octane, would it have been applauded or disregarded?

Yes. The seamless, exposed nude bustier is straight from the Fall/Winter 2005 Couture show. The Watteau back on some of the dress reminds me of a look from the Madame Butterfly collection. I also see an exact replica of a Fall/Winter 2002 coat - now done in a reflective silver material.

Had this been shown at Dior? But more high octane? I think it would look better for sure.

I’ve said before many times in Margiela Couture threads here that casting, styling and production make a big difference in the way clothes are perceived.

Throw these same clothes on the models of the Brazilian and Russian era, throw it on the iconic mirrored runway, add in a bombastic soundtrack from Jeremy Healy...and it’s suddenly a different thing. If you’re not going to do that, just do a lookbook or a presentation or museum/exhibit style event...where we can see the clothes and marvel at the details and construction.

Because, in my opinion, these “models” (who uncomfortably sprint down the catwalk) and this cramped, dark, claustrophobic setting do nothing for these clothes at all. In fact - they really bring everything down a notch or two.

These creative choices on how the work is presented is as important as the work itself. All the effort put into making such interesting clothes kind of lost...it’s a shame when other choices could have been made. It’s like a director having a great script on his hands...and then wasting it with poor actors and subpar cinematographers, editors and composers to complete the project. Ends up a bit of a waste.

 

[jeanclaude]

I was scrolling like mad looking for this season version of the deconstructed trench-coat...and of course I found it!!

 

[Lola701]

I love this collection but i’m conflicted. As a body of work, this is really great. The cut, the details, the references... It’s marvelous. I think in this collection he has perfectly blend his Dior and his John Galliano line in a modern way, while using elements of the past.

That being said, it’s Margiela and I still don’t get the project, the purpose of that. This will always be my biggest question mark with John’s work at Margiela...

This is part of the whole narrative. Is his work only drive by the expression of creativity and the romance of story-telling (which will explain the always quite pretentious podcast) or does he have the desire to impact people in a deeper way? There’s no emotional connection in his work I think.

And, I hate seeing male models who can’t wear heels, in heels. I guess they might believe it was edgy, awkward and stuff but it’s uncomfortable to watch because it kills the energy of the show.

 

[mistress_f]

oh i love this, all of this. my favorite collection of his in a while.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Not Haute couture to me at all. Feels basic. I am not a fan at all of John at Margiela.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

God I LOVEEE this. So much to look at but like Lola said this really does not make me understand Margiela.

John's work just calls for a more vivid presentation. Set, Models, Music, etc.

I know we're not supposed to talk about casting and models on the main thread but I really do feel like the casting of the awkward male models here really diminished the impact of several of the looks.

Had the finale look been on a Stella Tenant type...things would be different.

 

[bennyboy]

love this collection. wish he could do Galliano more over the house shadow. feels like he stuck inbetween

 

[donyan]

some of it is kinda beautiful but I still don’t understand what and who this is about. There’s lots of technique and experimentation and ideas but for what ? Nobody will ever wear these clothes or am I wrong?

 

[tatouejeremie]

some of it is kinda beautiful but I still don’t understand what and who this is about. There’s lots of technique and experimentation and ideas but for what ? Nobody will ever wear these clothes or am I wrong?

yes they're not even selling it, it's just for entertainment

 

[dodencebt]

I still need time to fully digest it, and initially I didn't like it much (just like last season), but I gave it a second look and I've changed my mind. It's actually much more restrained than most of his previous couture attempts at Margiela and I can't help but love the Dior references mixed with Martin's penchant for exposed nude undergarments and deconstruction.

One thing I instantly fell in love with is the grey one shoulder trench. I'd wear the hell out of it.

 

[YohjiAddict]

The colour palette made this show look really drab and I'm not feeling it as much as some others he's done for Margiela. What I've liked about his shows is his total magpie approach to color and print that makes the whole experience cloyingly exhuberant in the best way possible. That richness you find in his work is really necessary as an antidote to the nothingness we are seeing on the runway but this time he left me wanting more.

 

[AD011620]

I actually like this... It's NOT boring and I am grateful for that. Kind of fun.

 

[Miss Galliano]

thic collection was so fresh and very John ..he is back in the game ! John is marvelous at Margiela Maison