Maison Margiela Haute Couture S/S 2018 Paris

[dodencebt]

vogue.com

 

[dodencebt]

vogue.com

 

[dodencebt]

vogue.com

 

[Benn98]

Lifting the middle finger to Balenciaga yet again! This is what I live for. Abstract, fantasy, eeriness, rounded out by unparalleled creativity. Not mad about the headgear though.

 

[dodencebt]

I think this is Galliano's breakthrough moment at Margiela. Somehow during this show everything came together for me in a way that hadn't since his debut.

The black pieces which are "activated" by a flash are incredibly smart. Most designers would have left them plain and let the idea speak for itself, but here they are so well-designed that they work perfectly in a normal setting while unveiling a great surprise in pictures. Also, the rubberized mint knitted coat is gorgeous.

 

[Benn98]

The charm of it is that it's not just nice to look at, the last 10-odd outfits look very wearable if you're after something more adventurous.

 

[Lola701]

So, it's official, Margiela is a real circus now...

I like it for what it is. I think that it looks fresh, there are some good pieces even if it's a little too trendy, too precious and cartoonish for my taste.

The details are insane and there's always something to look at and this is really in the spirit of Margiela's Couture but i miss the allure of Couture.

I think that going full sporty is a bit meh. It would have been fabulous to use real classic Couture fabrics with this particular show. It would have been beyond fabulous to have this parkas in chartreuse or in ostrish feathers....Or use very raw fabrics like "toile de jute" and do it in a very crafty way.

I think i like this because it somehow reminds me of my all time favorite Galliano for Dior Couture show (which is also one of my favorite collection ever) that was FW 2002. But looking back, that collection almost felt more Margiela than this.

This is a good collection. Is it a highlight? Not for me...

 

[mistress_f]

i'm so happy to have john sparkle my interest in fashion again.
Between the ridiculounsness of vetements and the like & the annoying 'irony' of the alessandro micheles of the world on on one side and the dull boredom of many others on the other, here comes something that doesn't care about trends and it's new and interesting and exciting and fun and exquisite in its details. I'm obsessed with many of these looks, i mean it's not just a gimmick, every piece is interesting in on itself.

 

[StoneSkipper]

I mean, I'm a sucker for holo, so I was bound to like this collection even if it was terrible Luckily, it's terrific. Everything is incredibly well-constructed and creative. Love the bustiers, that one oversized mint coat, and that one black suit.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I think this is Galliano's breakthrough moment at Margiela. Somehow during this show everything came together for me in a way that hadn't since his debut.

The black pieces which are "activated" by a flash are incredibly smart. Most designers would have left them plain and let the idea speak for itself, but here they are so well-designed that they work perfectly in a normal setting while unveiling a great surprise in pictures. Also, the rubberized mint knitted coat is gorgeous.

I absolutely agree, I have been following Galliano's approach to Margiela every season and admiring it for it's distinct inspiration each season that makes it stand out amongst the beige cocoons, but this is for sure his best.
I will go as far as to say this the first collection I have felt excited about for years.
The use of light and ultra-modern fabrics remind me so much of the works of art Ghesquiere sent out in spring 2009 for Balenciaga, where he used treated crin.
It has been known since then and before, that the future of fashion is in the hands of textile manufacturers, this is highlighted by people like Li Edelkoort, Galliano is leading the way.

 

[CholoChic]

Intrincate and full of poetry born in every nook wich makes a splash of colors from darks. Adorable John making always designs from the heart to hearts.

 

[Benn98]

So, it's official, Margiela is a real circus now...

I like it for what it is. I think that it looks fresh, there are some good pieces even if it's a little too trendy, too precious and cartoonish for my taste.

The details are insane and there's always something to look at and this is really in the spirit of Margiela's Couture but i miss the allure of Couture.

I think that going full sporty is a bit meh. It would have been fabulous to use real classic Couture fabrics with this particular show. It would have been beyond fabulous to have this parkas in chartreuse or in ostrish feathers....Or use very raw fabrics like "toile de jute" and do it in a very crafty way.

I think i like this because it somehow reminds me of my all time favorite Galliano for Dior Couture show (which is also one of my favorite collection ever) that was FW 2002. But looking back, that collection almost felt more Margiela than this.

This is a good collection. Is it a highlight? Not for me...

I find your opinion interesting because I kissed Margiela or it's literal codes goodbye the moment Galliano took over. He was never going to abide by those anyway. He's trying to incorporate but his creative prowess is far too imposing.
That said, I do see the 'trendy' fragments as well. Dad sneakers and whatnot, yet it still doesn't come across as insufferable, odd.

I'm personally fed up with literal couture. There's more brands doing that, so the concept is slowly losing its charm.

 

[Melancholybaby]

This collection needs to be seen in HQ. So many incredible details you don't notice at first glance.


vogue.com

 

[Melancholybaby]

vogue.com

 

[Melancholybaby]

vogue.com

 

[TaylorBinque]

What a treat. I will always have a soft spot for John. This collection is very smart, creative and very clever in its message and execution. It's even better to watch the clothes come to live in motion with the flash. Some looks really bring home to his old namesake collections.

 

[dodencebt]

^ The photos I initially uploaded are the HQs from Vogue. I see only a 5% increase of size in the ones you posted above - should there be a big difference?

 

[Melancholybaby]

Oops, I didn't click on your original thumbnails, thinking they were the initial LQ ones Vogue uploads. I miscredited mine as well, they're from vogue.it. Can a mod delete my posts?

 

[simon]

Gagging over this.

 

[Yohji]

I don't even mind if he has turned it into a "circus" because Margiela wasn't terribly exciting after the man himself left. At least Galliano has been given a playground he can, well, play in. He's one of few designers (mainstream, at least) who is doing something exciting at this moment.