Martine Rose Menswear S/S 2025 Milan

I wonder what the vision for her brand is? Whom exactly is this for and what's the aesthetic she's creating, chasing or conforming to?

Most all over the place collection that I've ever seen.
 
as directionless this collection seems to be its still quite believable and global in a way, these clothes would work in any metropolis imo. i believe she creates for/is inspired by ppl around her idk how to explain but it feels very personal and coming from a genuine way of dressing, its not disconnected from reality (like raf's and jwa's rags). i dont love it but i respect it and understand why this exists

a major ick: the leather chap bermuda shorts and trousers look waaay too similar to spencer phipps' chap jeans
 
Yuck. No straight man would ever wear any of these. Plus, I think she didn’t get the ‘summer’ memo.
 
It’s giving Shock G
shock-g.webp
 
I find this really exhausting. I don't know if the styling would change anything but it's really going for that Bushwick cerebral when really, it's a janky Xuly Bet meets DSquared2 (same as Mowalola, if I'm being honest).

Just there, for the sake of it. Like Bushwick and its heathens. I've never been to NYC and yet Bushwickian aesthetics have been presented to me against my will for years now.
 
This looks like Law Roach trying to squeeze himself (or themselves?) back to everybody's business after he finallyy gets dropped for his relentless self promotion.
 
I guess the whole point of the collection are the fake noses, to make a point in favour of inclusive beauty (which in actual terms means no one's beautiful anymore). Lord...
 
The noses are my favourite styling/beauty gimmick in a long time. Very dream/nightmare logic, like a David Lynch film maybe. I hope we see them at Chanel Couture next.
 

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