With a subtext referencing rockabilly and punk, Martyn Bal proposes a bold, luxurious Autumn/Winter 2010 collection. Coats in sturdy wools have quilted leather biker sleeves and tough hardware, whilst Bal’s signature sharp cut runs from shirts to oversized tapered pants to create a more fluid and comfortable line. His lean silhouette is contrasted with a ‘jeans’ type attitude - no denims are present, but instead it’s about a mindset where tactile sturdy fabrics offer a more wearable, adaptable take on elegant. Texture is key in achieving this, with washed cottons, graphic weaves, soft leathers, waxed fabrics and vintage treatments bringing new personality to the classic. Details matter, as ever. Zips, raw edges and repeating buttons add rebel undercurrent, in an assertive colour palette of charcoals and blacks. Royal College of Art MA graduate Bal assisted Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme from 2000 to 2003; has designed collections for Versace, and served as director of the menswear studio for Burberry Prorsum. His clothes have an effortless beauty that hold a mirror to a man's inner strength.