MBMJ F/W 14.15 New York

[Marc10]

PS: That's the new name.


style

 

[Marc10]

style

 

[Marc10]

style

 

[Marc10]

style

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Ah, this show was so good; I absolutely loved watching it! Even Marc looked enthralled, sitting as he did, right beside Sofia. lol.

Personally speaking I loved the spirit of the clothes. I'd probably most want to wear the voluminous tutus and jackets at the end, though the bow shrugs are totally sweet and would be a nice addition to a dress and some of the structured separated and knits are very cool. Oh and I really liked the bags and shoes too.

A very nice start for Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier.

Here's Tim Blanks review:

FEBRUARY 11, 2014
NEW YORK
By Tim Blanks

Girl power! The concept was debased by Geri Halliwell's endless, witless proselytizing, but Luella Bartley was happy to revive it after the sensational Marc by Marc Jacobs show today, her first as co-designer with Katie Hillier. (BTW, it will be henceforth known as MBMJ, just like the knee socks said.) There was something so fiercely ninja-pop-militant about the presentation that girl power was the irresistible takeaway. In the recent past, MBMJ's shows have been a neutral parade of girls and boys in vintage-inflected schmatta. Bartley and Hillier ditched the boys. Wise move. We all know girls rule the world, and, minus the draggy testosterone, the collection finally took fierce flight. Back, said Bartley, to its kicky roots. So all the BMX lingo on the clothes—Revolution! Bunny Hop! Twisted! Uprising! —functioned as a goofy manifesto.

The show felt like a consummation of the spirit that underpins the entire Marc Jacobs enterprise. New York born and bred he may be, but Marc himself is infatuated with the nuances of the fashion tribes that have shaped style since the youthquaking sixties. And no one gets nuance like a Brit club kid. So how savvy is it of Jacobs to surround himself with Londoners like Bartley, Hillier, Katie Grand, and Venetia Scott? The first look today—a soldier in Marc's fashion army—was accessorized with pigtails and a single tear streaking the model's cheek. Instantly defiant/romantic, it set the tone for the rest of the show. If some outfits looked Bolshevik apparatchik, others had the knife-pleated, crinolined flair of a Dickens chick, wrapped in a bow. Urchin girls! The poignancy of such creatures gave MBMJ an edgy new life. So did the solid-soled trainers. Attitude starts from the ground up. And this collection had attitude in fabulous spades.

style.com

 

[amak]

finally!!!! a New York show with an authentic voice!!!!!!!! this is so fresh and interesting!!!

 

[TianCouture]

This is sooooo cool! You get such an attitude with each and every look. So strong!

 

[gossiping]

i thought it was such a disappointment i'd not wear any of this

and i used to love these collections (more than his mainline)

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

MBMJ or Hood by Air? None of this felt authentic to me

 

[t-rex]

I'm glad he handed over the reins to Luella and Katie, rather than another guy. There's a crazy small amount of women at the helm of brands!

 

[HeatherAnne]

Those skirted looks at the end are pure Luella goodness, the rest is junk.

 

[Marc10]

 

[StoneSkipper]

MBMJ or Hood by Air?

I was thinking Adidas by Jeremy Scott. It's very tumblr fodder, especially those scarfs (which were done a million times already). I liked the beginning and the bows. LOVED the set and overall presentation.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

yes, the show itself was great i thought.
i think some of the looks need to be deconstructed a bit, or de-stylized, to see the pieces in a more versatile, wearable light. but there are quite a few nice separates here imo.

 

[Scott]

JS? i don't really see that so much as say late 90's early 00's bernhard willhelm. BW is infamous for this heavier,layered approach to kitsch compared with jeremy's 80's bombshell schtick. all the check patterns,giant bows,knee-socks,petticoat shapes….it's all reminiscent of that era in BW's work. that one red tartan dress could have literally come straight from his look-book.

once more,it's a nice attempt but it's so utterly derivative.

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

The last looks are somewhat relevant to the brand but the rest is pure timewaste. The casting is so random as well.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I really agree with her review overall - but particularly with what she says about the styling and about the potential. I highlighted those bits.

Marc by Marc Jacobs’s Imaginative Restart
BY ROBIN GIVHAN

Part of the magic of fashion occurs when a designer creates a fanciful world that is so clearly defined, so utterly detailed, that he or she not only convinces you that it is real — but makes you want to live there.

[...] The new creative team at Marc by Marc Jacobs tossed a lot of imaginative ideas onto the runway at Pier 36 Tuesday evening, but they never coalesced into a singular point of view. Most of the inspiration drew overtly from Japanese comic books with their eye-popping colors, kitschy violence, and kooky characters. But Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier also mixed in full schoolgirl skirts inflated by pleated petticoats and oversize sweaters that looked as though they might have been inspired by a vagabond princess.

The whole thing was a confusing mishmash of ideas; some elements quite pretty, others simply strange and awkward. But all of it was interesting. They made one want to see more. And to be fair, this is only their first season at the helm. It takes a while to create a universe.

As the first models marched along the wide, expansive runway, they resembled pig-tailed superheroes in wrestling boots, moon boots, boxing belts, knee-high socks, and jackets emblazoned with anime characters. Much of the strangeness was in the styling. (Isn’t it always?) Pleated trousers that looked like they might have a beautiful, fluid drape were tucked into knee socks so that they resembled golfing britches.Super-wide belts threw off proportions and made the models look like attenuated ninjas. And, back to the knee socks: Only elementary-school girls actually look good in knee socks — everyone else looks a bit like cougars on the make.

Still, the arrival of Bartley and Hillier immediately gave Marc Jacobs’s second line a jolt of pop-culture camp, taking it from a whimper to a roar. The collection looked younger and quirkier than it has in the past. It had a tough-girl attitude, as evoked by the models who stomped their way around the wide, open warehouse in their graphic T-shirts, martial-arts references, and sarcastic, hyper-feminine riffs.

There was something quietly artful about the old Marc by Marc Jacobs. But it is a testament to the brand’s namesake that he held little sentimentality for the label’s past. Instead, he sat front row and watched this new vision unfold, one that speaks to a consumer who is more global, more defiant and whose artful endeavors are more like to emerge from a computer than an easel.

 

[Pricciao]

Those skirted looks at the end are pure Luella goodness, the rest is junk.

my thought was those tutus can stay where they had to stay in 2009. I'd embrace the sporty suits, can hug them right away.

 

[Scott]

btw,i've been seeing a lot of this up close and it's a complete,unashamed rip-off of bernhard. even the shoes….they look EXACTLY like the signature footwear BW has been designing for several years now for camper! sorry but this is abhorrent…i know nothing is original and that's one thing but i really despise blatant copy-cats and this is a blatant,literal rip-off. but i'm not so surprised coming from the helm of marc jacobs…the man cannot produce anything these days unless it's lifted from someone else's work.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

^ To be honest, and I am ashamed to admit this, but I am not super familiar with the " late 90's early 00's bernhard willhelm" work that you've mentioned, Scott. But I am definitely curious now! Will look it up.

In any case, I do like a lot of this collection, but it's too bad that it's so derivative because it's got a good vibe imo. Maybe they "cited" the right guy?