Moschino S/S 2025 Milan

Can't believe I'm saying this, but this actually makes me appreciate Jeremy Scott.

This brand is only 'good' when it's dumb and childish, which is Scott's main talent. Whenever someone tries to go into a Betsy Johnson or Sonya Rykiel direction it never ends up being very good because it renders the brand unnecessary.
 
why i feel like he is overthinking his collections? its all "quirky" but very serious. if he cant let loose and go all out, i hope he can start introducing staples that people will go to moschino for, maybe that crisp white oversized shirt or the moto jacket and skirt with zip details.
 
With the color palette, reliance on flat shoes, and the shapes it's a little too close to Burton's later years at McQueen :(

I miss the whimsy of Jeremy's collections, this is all a little too serious and lacking in the fun and tongue-in-cheek vibe I always associated with the brand.
 
New Marni meets Comme des Garcon?
I can't believe this is his only third collection, I am bored already
There is no theme here, an extremely unforgettable parade of expensive clown clothes
It is so hard to believe this isn't the same group as OTB Lamo
 
I appreciate his design language but I’m not sure if it fits Moschino. Many looks would’ve been amazing for Marni indeed. I need to digest this collection a bit more.
 
That people here say they miss Scott's antics is only symptomatic of how much detrimental JS's tenure was to the perception of what the brand stands for.
Yes, Franco's work was certainly prone to jokes and a imbued with a tongue-in-cheek spirit but that was not in itself its raison d'être. Like Miuccia Prada after him, Moschino's creativity fed itself from from a short-circuit born out of his love for clothes and, at the same time, an impatience (not to say despise) for the fashion world. His clothes were not crass pranks for the IG crowd, which is pretty much what Jeremy Scott stood for, but well made, fundamentally classic wardrobe staples with a twist, for real people to wear.
I see a lot of this spirit in Appiolaza's approach. He seems to me someone who knows the archive very well, someone who really, really gets Moschino, not just the gaudy part of it.
During JS's years, the brand grew only thanks to the godawful LoveMoschino diffusion line, while not many customers in their right mind spent their money on the tasteless runaway proposals. I hope Appiolaza manages to get the mainline the attention it deserves.
 
I think he really understand the spirit of Franco, that was ironic but subtle and chic never tacky as JS was. With that said I’m a bit disappointed here because his first collection this February was my favourite of the season, while with this one it was difficult to finish it…
maybe is because this season the styling is by Alastair who makes everything so boring
 
I like the collection. Tbh, I like his vision for Moschino as I think he understands the spirit of the brand while giving actual clothes to wear…
I love that he is quirky instead of camp but I think that he needs to work on his presentation.

You can’t show clothes that have some humor and esprit and have such a boring, formulatic catwalk.

He looks like he likes to have fun, I wish he shared that with us too.

I think he should work with Carlyne. It would be interesting to have her in this kind of exercise.
 
I'm really intrigued to see the backs on the inside out/reversed pieces. I hope they photographed them because the live stream kind of didn't capture it well at all :/
 
A lot of these looks seem like love letters to designers that Appiolaza loves and respects but idk how well that translates to creating a look for the new Moschino woman. The graphic text prints are the weakest part of the collection but there's still lots of cute things for everyone.
 
My favorite Moschino used to look like life-sized versions of Barbie clothes, cartoonish, costume-y, but hey at least it was a unique and entertaining addition to the fashion landscape.

This is just.... too kitsch to be good, too serious to "serve camp" as the girls and gays say
 
some good clothes, some questionable clothes, but not much. As Lola said, the presentation needs more life and humor.
 
My favorite Moschino used to look like life-sized versions of Barbie clothes, cartoonish, costume-y, but hey at least it was a unique and entertaining addition to the fashion landscape.

This is just.... too kitsch to be good, too serious to "serve camp" as the girls and gays say
It wasn’t MOSCHINO though. Maybe the intention in terms of entertainment because Franco’s shows were real shows but in terms of fashion, Scott diluted « the essence of fashion » from the brand.
 

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