Mugler F/W 2018.19

[Wintergreen]

Arnaud Lajeunie - Photographer
Alex Harrington - Fashion Editor/Stylist
Jonathan De Francesco - Hair Stylist
Christine Corbel - Makeup Artist
Rachel Chandler - Casting Director
Walter Pearce - Casting Director
Ami Suzuki - Model
Amy Wesson - Model
Debra Shaw - Model
Jess Cole - Model
Vivienne Rohner - Model



WWD

 

[Wintergreen]

Cont.



WWD

 

[Wintergreen]

This is a lookbook for the fall 2018 collection so I'm posting it here. Lovely to see Amy Wesson back.

Mugler's new designer is, according to Vogue, a certain Casey Cadwallader (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/mugler).

 

[dior_couture1245]

Pretty pitiful, if you ask me.

There's nothing here that gives me any kind of feeling that this is Mugler. It's obviously a tricky heritage to take on and make contemporary, but I don't believe it's impossible. There's enough incredibly potent imagery in the archives to play with and freshen up. It's a brand that needs some real stylized choices to be made. There needs to be some kind of drama.

But this looks like a Proenza Schouler to me. Yikes.

The lookbook itself is also so questionable...it's so gallerista and "natural." So self serious. None of those things have anything to do with Mugler. And hiring Debra Shaw and Amy Wesson isn't enough to make me like this. That's a gimmick to distract. It's nothing more than a talking point, gunning for a Vogue write up about the casting.

 

[perhydrol]

^It's not impossible to bring the Mugler's aesthetics into the 21st century and Koma's collections are a good proof of that, they were sophisticated, sexy and sharp. This feels forced and directionless. And making ugly PVC coats in some kind of collaboration in your debut collection is not the best idea.

Have you seen this guy's interview? Because it's... interesting:

I looked at the different eras [of the house]; coming in after David [Koma], what people might want after his time there. His vision was very sexy and evening, very tailored. Before that there was Nicola Formichetti’s time, which was so much about Lady Gaga and sensational pop culture; it was so much about performance. They weren’t really producing the clothes, it was all about the process. For me, when I was working on my project for the job, I wanted to get into Mr. Mugler’s head.

[from vogue.com]
At least Nicola and David had some aesthetic and vision of Mugler. This feels like dead Proenza Schouler rip-offs.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^I felt like Koma's Mugler was extremely cold and clinical and while the clothes may have been more textbook Mugler, they lacked the personality and boldness of Thierry.

It's true Nicola's Mugler was all about Gaga...that was also a miss.

So far, no one has gotten it right.

At one point, many years ago when they first revived this brand, I remember wishing Hussein Chalayan would have been involved. Granted, I'm sure his personal attitudes and perspectives on fashion would have likely turned him away from even wanting that opportunity, but I felt like Chalayan had the ability to use technology and robotics and mechanical contraptions in an elegant and purposeful way with his fashion that it could have been an interesting pairing...Hussein also proved earlier in his career that he was very capable of injecting some sensuality and sexuality into his collections (I don't see that same sexiness in his work anymore, unfortunately), which also would have been an asset had he been matched with Mugler. He was even capable, at times, of injecting some camp and humor into his work, too.

Anyway...that's a day dream. But I think it illustrates the very real possibility of this brand being something compelling again. Management just hasn't been interested in finding someone with a daring enough voice to make it work.

I feel similarly with Schiaparelli. It's a house with so much potential, and it's ended up an extremely one-dimensional interpretation of the house codes.

Watched recently an old Mugler couture collection from later in his career. As is, it's more modern and exciting looking than what's here.

 

[Nomar]

I think this is very interesting and I like the quirkiness of it all. The photos also just gorgeous.

 

[maxlinden]

Useless!

 

[dodencebt]

I actually think this is a fantastic debut collection, down to the lookbook. It may not be exactly in the spirit of Thierry Mugler but hey, times are changing. I don't think there are that many exciting and extremely talented young designers who would make people dream anymore; it's all about individual product that would appeal to as many as possible now. To be honest, I wasn't a fan of neither Formichetti's nor of Koma's vision for the brand so this is already better in my book.

 

[Wintergreen]

Personally I like some of the pieces, that top Vivienne Rohmer is wearing to me is gorgeous. But the Mugler references are too vague and faint.

 

[YohjiAddict]

It looks like a Tumblr moodboard not like a collection for a brand with an actual identity.It just sems desperate, the images themselves are pretty and all but that's not enough to make it seem coherent.

 

[jeanclaude]

The first dress on Debra is the only interesting thing here. He should have focused on developing the rest of the collection at the same level...because an oversized jacket with big shoulder pads mixed with short leggings don´t scream "Mugler" at all...they scream "I am lost".

 

[elle_gb]

I'm kind excited about new design though, it looks different in a good way. Those days are gone I want to see this brand moving forward with new direction but still respect such history.