The collection doesn’t really find its footing until around look 10, when a sharp, Muglerian suit finally sets the tone. After that it drifts again, and we wait nearly another 10 looks before a second wasp-waist silhouette appears in a luminous, shimmering finish.
In between, the runway is crowded with confusing, half-resolved ideas. Heavy leather drapes weighed down by leather flowers dominate, leaving many looks feeling unfinished and mismatched. The core issue seems to be materials. The weights and fabrics simply don’t align with the intended silhouettes, which undermines the precision and strength of the designs.
Look 33 is the true standout and feels like a must-have that anchors the entire collection. The trench that follows and the sleek tank are equally strong, suggesting what the whole lineup could have been.
The stand out pieces scream Mugler but are not direct dupes.