Neil Barrett ss06 - Milan

kit

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NEIL BARRETT : HITMAN HIP .


From Fashion Wire Daily .


By Godfrey Deeny .


Neil Barrett has always had a unique vision on menswear and with this spring/summer 2006 collection he had a punchy hit. His streamlined and shrunk silhouette is perfectly right for the moment.

Barrett who has a successful partnership with sportswear giant Puma – in tough times like this a pillar for freedom and creativity -- seems to concentrate more and more on making his name a brand by honing his design signatures: case in point, a single-breasted micro jacket which was shown over and over in this collection. Brandishing his name further, we got a striking selection of accessories stamped with Barrett’s esthetic ranging from hats to great looking mens dress shoes.

Staged in a cool Superstudio show space – this season all of Milan’s designers have done their homework and present their collections in AC equipped spaces – Barret changed the seating plan so the models would walk a large X pattern arnound the room, allwoing them to be seen fully by everyone. He started strong by showing his variations of a classic: the tuxedo. Showing razor-sharp jackets with bermuda shorts and accesorizing this with clubby bow ties, Barrett made a serious effort at bringing forward the ultimate staple in a men’s wadrobe. Accessorizing his men with snug gloves gave the show a cool hitman chic look – even if he labored the poitn more than a tad.

Powered by a big club soundtrack with an old-school Yello track as highlight, we also saw one of the best color palettes in Milan - black, chocolate brown, white and navy. Barrett’s models were young and lean looking guys with slicked backed hair and square jaws. But unlike many of his Milan colleagues who prefer to cast a group of star models with strong torsos, over seasons past Barrett has found his particular guy and look resembling a young and skinny Alain Delon.

Milan is full of designers who are adding denim to their runways and so did Barrett. He went as far as working his tuxedo theme in denim and showed a faded wash on stellar shirts, jackets and multi-pocket jeans. It seems like he is patenting a particular cut with a his round leg made with a front dart where a stripe runs from one cuff over the crotch to the next.

Plus Barrett’s selection of woman’s looks were the best he’s produced. One art lady in a shrunken leather micro bomber worn over a staff faille flared skirt made for a sensational image. No wonder Neil revealed to FWD that considering presenting his first fully fledged womenìs show early next year.



Looking good for Neil . :P He certainly deserves it . :flower:





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Thanks for posting, kit. I found the menswear to be seriously underwhelming. Beyond the mononchrome color palette, there's no strong unifying element here...which I guess was the point....but the results look more confused than convincing, imo. Tux jackets with shorts! Biker vests with bow ties! Distressed denim formalwear! :rolleyes: There may be a few attractive individual pieces in the collection, but it's hard to get past the hodgepodge styling...

Interestingly enough, as mentioned in the review, the womenswear is awesome. I'm really excited to hear that he'll be expanding that part of his business in the future, because this is exactly the sort of thing I've been yearning to see. Forget the boys, Neil...we need you...:P:

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Thanks SO much for posting the women's pieces , droogist :heart: . It was SO humid here last night , it took me all the energy I could muster to get the best of the men's up . :blush:

Merci beaucoup , you're a pal . :flower:
 
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this look is :sick:, i'm quite disappointed with neil barrett this season...i usually like his clothes...but not this time...
 
droogist/kit thanks for the photos. The womenswear looks quite nice.
 
not too keen on his menswear (whats it with all those short length trousers )

but... like droogist said, his womenswear is superb (apart from the khaki shorts) including shapes, volume, look (hair & make up) and SHOES , absolutely loved those shoes :heart:


thanks for posting the pictures guys :flower:
 
I'm disappointed, too. F/w was much better. There are still good pieces here, though, but nothing I'd rush out to buy.
 
AlexN said:
I'm disappointed, too. F/w was much better. There are still good pieces here, though, but nothing I'd rush out to buy.

Well, Neil's stuff has never been something to rush out and buy - there aren't really STRONG pieces - just very wearable and edgier than Prada. This collection is very weak, though, indeed.

Lena, I'm glad someone else noticed the women's shoes. I LOVE those in the bottom pictures.
 
thanks for the images! i really love the 3rd dress in post #3...i'm not sure how i feel about the gloves though..seems sort of incongruous to me. i mean, i think i get it, but i would never think to pair those gloves with those clothes.

the menswear is doing nothing for me. there is one outfit in the pictures posted that i like (the tan coat, skinny dark tie and skinny highwater khaki trousers, redhead model) but other than that, it's a bit off for me...suit jacket and shorts? i don't know...
 
droogist said:
There may be a few attractive individual pieces in the collection, but it's hard to get past the hodgepodge styling...

I'm really excited to hear that he'll be expanding that part of his business in the future, because this is exactly the sort of thing I've been yearning to see. Forget the boys, Neil...we need you...:P
I fully agree with you. The womenswear is amazing! It doesn't look like it's something no one has ever done before, but everything just falls into place and corresponds.

I'd definitely leave the gloves at home, fun for on the catwalk, but a "don't do this at home" case off-runway.
 
I actually think that both the womenswear and the menswear are amazing. The styling might be a bit off (gloves :huh: ) but I'd definetly wear a lot of this menswear collection. Same with the womenswear collection if I were a woman...
 
droogist said:
Forget the boys, Neil...we need you...:P:
NO!!! We boys need as much as we can get. :lol:

That look that Amchan posted is so off. :sick: Not sure why the gloves are even there...and those jeans are just awful. :yuk: They make the model look so stocky.
 
thanks for the womenswear pics, droogist...they're great!
 
amchan said:
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this look is :sick:, i'm quite disappointed with neil barrett this season...i usually like his clothes...but not this time...
THe stitching and length of the leg make the model look bowlegged, not a good look on anyone (not even Halle Berry)
 
^Yes, those truly could be the worst jeans EVER.
 
Just to remind (and I said this in another thread, too)--last I heard, Txell Miras was designing his womenswear.
But I could be wrong.
It's a lot more evident in last season's collection, so I'm not positive about this. Anyone else know?
 

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