Nensi Dojaka S/S 2022 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[YohjiAddict]

It looks exactly like 10 other shows this season but at least it's more put together than the NY versions which were very streetwalker-chic.

The third dress is such a poor copy of Balenciaga S/S 2004 though...

 

[Frederic01]

I don't understand the hype around her brand and her aesthetic. She literally has one idea - the slinky dress with the straps and cut-outs. I'm confused as to why this merits a fully fledged show at London fashion week?

What is worse is that this looks like an Anthony Vaccarello show circa 2012. Some of these looks are so derivative of his Spring Summer 2012 collection specifically, I cannot believe it hasn't been called out already.

 

[tatouejeremie]

i don't think there is any true hype around her, just a manufactured one cause she won that price
like all london designers that are trying to build a brand around a gimmick, she'll be gone and forgotten within a couple of years

 

[Fulton St Critique]

For those in the know, why exactly did she win? This is not rhetorical or anything of that nature I am genuinely curious. I understand the vision from a sensuality perspective and freedom of feminine expression but the idea appears very limited upon further investigation. I would be hard pressed to consider this collection or really any of her previous work as “good” or simply “poor”, there is just not enough fashion to go off of. I am combing over these looks desperate for something to speak on. Oversized blazer, ok sure, nice high waisted trousers- yeah, decent tailoring, eveningwear, sure that will do. Maybe I am coming off as cyclical, it is just really hard to pinpoint what defines her work as standout.

 

[jeanclaude]

This season is about tacky cut-outs...they are everywhere, it is like a plague!

 

[bc collector]

I might as well come off clean here and confess that I actually like Dojaka's work and rooted for her even before she was declared winner of the LVMH prize (full disclosure: I voted online for her) and said so in the dedicated thread.

I find this game of looking for references from someone else's work really trite, to say the least, first of all because it's an easy way to pull down pretty much any designer, if you really put your mind into it; but also because ultimately it does not say much about whether a designer as an identity or not and we all know of people like Phoebe or Nicolas who have been caught copying without this undermining their credibility (mind you, with this I'm not implying that ND is the new Phoebe).

In short, as I said in the LVMH Prize thread, she seemed to me the only one worth the attention, amid a bunch of graduate fashion show pieces. It's not just that she has established a very recognizable style in no time (in a way that reminds me of Craig Green in menswear). What I find interesting about her work is the whole idea of owning your own body and the power that these models emanate without a bit of vulgarity.
I hope she will manage to develop a more extended vocabulary with time and make treasure of experiences like the one she's embarking with N.21, these London kids only have to learn from RTW workhorses like Alessandro Dell'Acqua in terms of production skills and balance of creative and commercial appeal.
But this only time will tell and God forbid she turns out like another Sophia Kokosalaki.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

I might as well come off clean here and confess that I actually like Dojaka's work and rooted for her even before she was declared winner of the LVMH prize (full disclosure: I voted online for her) and said so in the dedicated thread.

I find this game of looking for references from someone else's work really trite, to say the least, first of all because it's an easy way to pull down pretty much any designer, if you really put your mind into it; but also because ultimately it does not say much about whether a designer as an identity or not and we all know of people like Phoebe or Nicolas who have been caught copying without this undermining their credibility (mind you, with this I'm not implying that ND is the new Phoebe).

In short, as I said in the LVMH Prize thread, she seemed to me the only one worth the attention, amid a bunch of graduate fashion show pieces. It's not just that she has established a very recognizable style in no time (in a way that reminds me of Craig Green in menswear). What I find interesting about her work is the whole idea of owning your own body and the power that these models emanate without a bit of vulgarity.
I hope she will manage to develop a more extended vocabulary with time and make treasure of experiences like the one she's embarking with N.21, these London kids only have to learn from RTW workhorses like Alessandro Dell'Acqua in terms of production skills and balance of creative and commercial appeal.
But this only time will tell and God forbid she turns out like another Sophia Kokosalaki.

Thank you @bc collector Honestly I did not pick up on that. I don’t mind admitting that either. To jeanclaude’s point what I see when I look at the clothing is more or less tacky cutouts. Full transparency, I did not consider the way in which the placement and shape of said design is done in a method that is not vulgar. I would consider it bordering sensual, yet personable at the same time. I was walking on the West Side last night from Midtown and the amount of crop tops and one-shoulder piece’s exposing the mid drift was truly enamoring. I understand it is just a simple pattern, but the freedom and confidence of these women is striking. I always look for a designer who is of the moment and who is not afraid to slight stray from an established trend or style. It appears it has been in front of my eyes, I just had to look! Thanks for making me think of her in a different light, much appreciated.

 

[jeanclaude]

If she was the winner of the LVMH prize, I really shiver thinking about the clothes of the other finalists...

 

[Deleted member 141309]

Copying and pasting within a context of a collection can be done differently for sure. Here is just see the cutouts and skimpy thing dress straps over and over, I am not sure there is any concept or story at all.

The stockings on Kiki Willems are such an abomination that I demand an apology for my eyes being so insulted. Who thought that is appealing? Who thought that looks sexy or alluring? And in asymmetry too?

The collection itself is totally wearable and okay, but those stockings…

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Why does London look very cheap this season? Maybe we can blame the pandemic. I see around 3 sophisticated pieces here the rest just looks too insta cheap.