Faust,just had closer look-you know Branquinho and Demeulemeester are not all I see in this....there's even a nod to some early stuff from Thea and Justin of Preen(probably why I love the jewellery bits) in the second row of images you posted. Also,reminds me of Haider Ackermann a bit as well. So in that sense,there is indefinitely alot of comparisons to be made with this. Dunno,what that's about exactly but it seems a departure of his A/W collection,to be honest.
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Nicolas Andreas Taralis S/S 06 Paris
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softgrey said:
yea i know your are...you do tend to take a lot of things perosnal i've noticed...
well, considering i'm a fashion buyer...and that's my job having studied fashion marketing...i'd say there is a rather large market for rock and roll influenced clothing, skinny jeans etc...especially considering the media shoves it down these young girls throats in all their glamour magazines...with pictures of kate moss wearing very similar styles to what we see here...infact, it's quite funny...i was listening to radio 1 the other day, and they have this big fashion gossip thing each week...and she was harping on about skinny jeans...in black...and how alllll the girls must head out too topshop and buy a pair straight away...with a nice little cardigan to go with them...
so yes...beleive there is a market for it...but then there is market for any type of clothing...but that's a completely different arguement altogether!
does that answer your query? which I may add, was put forward in a very rude, agressive manor which i do not appreciate...
or would you like me to go into further detail to allay your ill feelings with this collection at 12:21 in the morning for me...
the question is, does Nicolas want to establish himself as an innovative designer...or a brand...considering he has already done very well elsewhere before establishing his own label...i feel he is well within his rights to make clothing that has a proven track record of selling...maybe he wantsto establish the brand and the financial security of his business before branching out and producing a line of clothing which is more personal to him...which would opperate within a more niche market perhaps...
and softgrey...you asked who would buy this? well...you don't have to look much further than the 6/7 or so people in this thread alone who have stated they love it...that should answer your question really..
and softgrey...you asked who would buy this? well...you don't have to look much further than the 6/7 or so people in this thread alone who have stated they love it...that should answer your question really..
metal-on-metal
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Well damn.
softgrey
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...hot damn...
jhaime...thanks for the thoughtful reply...
i honestly was looking for your opinion...
i've been trying to figure out what you like and why because it seems so differnt from my point of view...
so i confess to singling you out for that reason...
but i sincerely do not mean it in an aggressive manner...
i guess that's just the italian 'passion' in me...
please forgive me...
i do forget what a big influence and celeb kate moss is over there...
she's not nearly as big over here...she's just a model here and americans are more celeb obsessed for the most part...they don't worship models so much...
don't ask me why...
...**
it does look very much like her style...
but as you said yourself...
wouldn't the young girls who are so influenced by her going to run down to topshop and get this...?...
is there really a large enough designer market for these goods to justify a new label doing this...?....
isn't it a very narrow market to begin with and aren't there already enough labels doing this who are barely getting by themselves...?...
**and i mean this from a business standpoint...
is this really a smart business venture?...
ps-you could have taken your time to answer btw...
you didn't have to reply in the middle of the night if you didn't want to...
adorefaith
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you'd think what is put on the runway would eventually end up on the streets...
and here it looks like what's on the street has just now ended up on the runway...
the skinny jeans....
dark colors...
ankle boots....
leggings under shorts tucked into boots...
off the shoulder shirts...
and some of it is almost 'disco' looking....
that shimmery sequiny silver lame stuff....?!...
..
i really dont like this.....
the big grey cardigan type thing with a hood is fun.....
other than that they look like trendy young fashion victims....
and here it looks like what's on the street has just now ended up on the runway...
the skinny jeans....
dark colors...
ankle boots....
leggings under shorts tucked into boots...
off the shoulder shirts...
and some of it is almost 'disco' looking....
that shimmery sequiny silver lame stuff....?!...
..i really dont like this.....
the big grey cardigan type thing with a hood is fun.....
other than that they look like trendy young fashion victims....
Diamond & Pearls
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buyers
last year for his first show collection the collection was smaller with around 15 looks, and have a look on his website to see who he sold the collection too, it's not really that bad to sell for a first time to Barney's NY, Celux, Maxfield, Ikram etc....
softgrey said:
last year for his first show collection the collection was smaller with around 15 looks, and have a look on his website to see who he sold the collection too, it's not really that bad to sell for a first time to Barney's NY, Celux, Maxfield, Ikram etc....
that's ok softgrey, I like your straight forward attitude...you just say it how it is, which is good...I didn't realise you were italian though...just thought you were a new yorker through and through...dont ask me why I assumed that? lol..
If you're asking me who I would think the exact market for this type of clothing would be for, I would put put it in the category of rich students, between the ages of 16 & 24...possibly college students between the ages of 16 & 19...who work part time, pay no rent, no board, live at home and have a total disposable income...
Hairdressers, make-up stylists, 'it' girls...footballers wifes, well off wifes between the age of 25 & 35...
basically, women who have money, but can still only manage to buy what's currently in the general highstreet shop...collen mclaughlen, age 18 (wayne Rooneys gf) would be a marvellous example of that...
The whole skinny jeans with rock star style anckle boots hasn't really hit britain that hard, yet...so I think spring may become the time this fad will be at its foremost...
personally, i dont mind too much...i think girls in skinny jeans or leggings look totally hawt...however, guys in drainpipes...well, i don't think there's as much as an appeal...
If you're asking me who I would think the exact market for this type of clothing would be for, I would put put it in the category of rich students, between the ages of 16 & 24...possibly college students between the ages of 16 & 19...who work part time, pay no rent, no board, live at home and have a total disposable income...
Hairdressers, make-up stylists, 'it' girls...footballers wifes, well off wifes between the age of 25 & 35...
basically, women who have money, but can still only manage to buy what's currently in the general highstreet shop...collen mclaughlen, age 18 (wayne Rooneys gf) would be a marvellous example of that...
The whole skinny jeans with rock star style anckle boots hasn't really hit britain that hard, yet...so I think spring may become the time this fad will be at its foremost...
personally, i dont mind too much...i think girls in skinny jeans or leggings look totally hawt...however, guys in drainpipes...well, i don't think there's as much as an appeal...
Diamond & Pearls said:
First collection is never a problem for a Dior Homme assistant. EVERY Dior Homme assistant has been hyped up the wazoo. The question is whether those store will keep buying. I personally saw several pieces of his at the Barneys WAREHOUSE sale for next to nothing...
peacelover142002
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Review from style.com:
PARIS, October 5, 2005 – Nicolas Andreas Taralis is a relative newcomer whose promise extends far beyond his interesting pedigree (which includes a stint with Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme). Not only was his front row well stocked with prominent editors and retailers, but standing-room guests lined the wall and snaked behind the light rigging all the way to the door—where the clothes, dimly lit to begin with, must have been plenty hard to see.
In a spring season of multiplying dresses and diminishing returns, the 30-year-old Canadian focused—with rigorous precision—on pantsuits. These he proposed as cropped jackets paired with full trousers complete with front pleats or, in a younger take on the theme, superskinny jeans. They were paired with fine-jersey tees in white and gray, which trailed silvery streamers and sashes. A pleated silver lamé dress, strung from the neck halter-style and loosely tied at the waist, showed that Taralis can also do pretty. And as for draping: When he arrived on the scene a year ago, he showed the kind of capes that are just now making their way into other collections. For spring, he's moved on to ponchos. His finale, which was striped with black and silver beads, had the kind of off-hand cool and notice-me luxe that would make a more experienced designer wish he'd thought of it first.
– Nicole Phelps
PARIS, October 5, 2005 – Nicolas Andreas Taralis is a relative newcomer whose promise extends far beyond his interesting pedigree (which includes a stint with Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme). Not only was his front row well stocked with prominent editors and retailers, but standing-room guests lined the wall and snaked behind the light rigging all the way to the door—where the clothes, dimly lit to begin with, must have been plenty hard to see.
In a spring season of multiplying dresses and diminishing returns, the 30-year-old Canadian focused—with rigorous precision—on pantsuits. These he proposed as cropped jackets paired with full trousers complete with front pleats or, in a younger take on the theme, superskinny jeans. They were paired with fine-jersey tees in white and gray, which trailed silvery streamers and sashes. A pleated silver lamé dress, strung from the neck halter-style and loosely tied at the waist, showed that Taralis can also do pretty. And as for draping: When he arrived on the scene a year ago, he showed the kind of capes that are just now making their way into other collections. For spring, he's moved on to ponchos. His finale, which was striped with black and silver beads, had the kind of off-hand cool and notice-me luxe that would make a more experienced designer wish he'd thought of it first.
– Nicole Phelps
peacelover142002
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i like this - even though its very simple.
tricotineacetat
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Phew, I´m finally back from Paris and this was the first topic that seemed easy enough for me to apporach this evening ...
The show for Nicolas was indeed really badly produced, starting from several buyers and supporters being left outside of the location (I hope they will fire the doorman who refused to let the Bonmarché head buyer inside to see the show) to the even more horrible fact that some of the clothes were not delivered in time so that they could have been shown on the runway - which ultimately explained why he sent out so many off-the-shoulder/cut-off t-shirt and jeans looks that ultimately could have been customized by a teenage rockchick.
The main strength with Nicolas Andreas is without doubt the strict tailoring that he learned during the days at Dior Homme as an assistant to Hedi Slimane. If you closely inspect one of his exquisite dinner jackets, it´s bascially the same careful attention to the fit as with Dior Homme, which definitely sets him apart from most of the emerging womenswear designers of the moment (Véronique Branquinho would be a suitable mention after the previous discussion). For S/S 2006, he had a particularly successful shawl-collared Spencer, cut slightly longer in the front that came in a selection of elaborate fabrics, from a black-on-black 18th century floral jacquard to chintzed silk or shiny silver lurex. All of these options were rich, yet refused to fall into the same category of "pretty" and "womanly" that other designers seemed to articulate these days, and that was a delightful sight in my eyes. There was an aggressive feel about his glam rock gear - but it was consistantly articulated, from his unusual selection of fabrics (fabrics with a chintzed sheen, waxed and oiled surfaces, black-tinted pretty florals, sturdy canvases and glitter-y silver lamés), to his takes on the Perfecto and old-fashioned military jackets (and their decoration in particular) that made the whole story very authentic and audible.
I won´t deny that there is need of improvement in his collection - he´s been doing well with all the pieces that are adapted from the menswear, but he still has to refine his draping and dressmaking skills, as some of his grecian pleats (as executed in a knee-length silver-lamé skirt) didn´t look all too flattering on the body. Until then, he might be the one who addresses that kind of woman that used to shop at Helmut Lang, that certain kind that wants to look sleek, rather than pretty or frilly - as well as skinny boys (mainly Japanese and some other few fellow TFS people) that appreciated the darker side of Dior Homme, something that Nicolas helped forge back when he was still one of Hedi´s hands.
...The show for Nicolas was indeed really badly produced, starting from several buyers and supporters being left outside of the location (I hope they will fire the doorman who refused to let the Bonmarché head buyer inside to see the show) to the even more horrible fact that some of the clothes were not delivered in time so that they could have been shown on the runway - which ultimately explained why he sent out so many off-the-shoulder/cut-off t-shirt and jeans looks that ultimately could have been customized by a teenage rockchick.
The main strength with Nicolas Andreas is without doubt the strict tailoring that he learned during the days at Dior Homme as an assistant to Hedi Slimane. If you closely inspect one of his exquisite dinner jackets, it´s bascially the same careful attention to the fit as with Dior Homme, which definitely sets him apart from most of the emerging womenswear designers of the moment (Véronique Branquinho would be a suitable mention after the previous discussion). For S/S 2006, he had a particularly successful shawl-collared Spencer, cut slightly longer in the front that came in a selection of elaborate fabrics, from a black-on-black 18th century floral jacquard to chintzed silk or shiny silver lurex. All of these options were rich, yet refused to fall into the same category of "pretty" and "womanly" that other designers seemed to articulate these days, and that was a delightful sight in my eyes. There was an aggressive feel about his glam rock gear - but it was consistantly articulated, from his unusual selection of fabrics (fabrics with a chintzed sheen, waxed and oiled surfaces, black-tinted pretty florals, sturdy canvases and glitter-y silver lamés), to his takes on the Perfecto and old-fashioned military jackets (and their decoration in particular) that made the whole story very authentic and audible.
I won´t deny that there is need of improvement in his collection - he´s been doing well with all the pieces that are adapted from the menswear, but he still has to refine his draping and dressmaking skills, as some of his grecian pleats (as executed in a knee-length silver-lamé skirt) didn´t look all too flattering on the body. Until then, he might be the one who addresses that kind of woman that used to shop at Helmut Lang, that certain kind that wants to look sleek, rather than pretty or frilly - as well as skinny boys (mainly Japanese and some other few fellow TFS people) that appreciated the darker side of Dior Homme, something that Nicolas helped forge back when he was still one of Hedi´s hands.
liberty33r1b
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what an interesting collection!!
thanks for bringing this in.
thanks for bringing this in.
tricotineacetat
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Cristofoli Press, Nicolas' Parisian press agent, has got a full length video of the S/S 2006 collection up on their website, http://www.cristofolipress.fr/
There´s also videos and pictures from other designers that they represent, such as Fabrics Interseason, Cosmic Wonder, Mélodie Wolf, Wendy & Jim or Junko Shimada.
There´s also videos and pictures from other designers that they represent, such as Fabrics Interseason, Cosmic Wonder, Mélodie Wolf, Wendy & Jim or Junko Shimada.
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