Thanks Scott: Will definitely follow them with interest.
I see it as more Helmut-wannabe. That's not necessary a bad thing in their case-- just that it's clearly Helmut's aesthetic, but cluttered, jumbled and too patchwork-y for my taste. They're obviously great admirers of his body of work, and it shows that you can pick out design characteristics from different collections of Helmut's in a garment of theirs. And in that instance, it's more of a Frankenstein-Helmut that, even when decently executed, it doesn't go beyond a Helmut-tribute. The menswear looks cleaner, more restrained, from what I can sort of see on the site-- although the bigger pics are not available, apparently. It's all very young and I hope they'll mature in time, but right now, although the Helmut-spirit is there, they lack Helmut's ageless, non-contrived, sophisticated innovation.
No one's still able to touch what Helmut has done. For me, anyways. Fashion isn't precious to me, but I do cherish the Helmut pieces I own-- although they're starting to show their wear after all these years. Like a first love, Helmut's irreplaceable to me... so far.