+NOIR - Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2016 Lookbook

[runner]

all images from fashionpress


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[runner]

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[runner]

images from fashionpress


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[BerlinRocks]

oh this is all very very nice !
(in the second post especially ... someone is gonna be happy to see this ! )

thank you runner.

 

[softgrey]

oh my...

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[tricotineacetat]

I don't know, really... These photos somehow confirm to me what I was mentioning earlier in another Yohji discussion about all the lines presently existing under the YY brand umbrella to become somewhat the same in terms of the look. I can hardly differentiate what's Y's to what's YY+noir etc. - And to be perfectly honest, I think that some of the detailing, like the asymmetric handkerchief hemlines or mismatched front pieces on shirts and jackets I've seen a thousand times repeated by now. The pieces that stand out for me are the ones with less busy detailing, like the black coat dress in the 2nd post with the single tie fastening on the top or the cobalt blue chinese shirt jacket with those intricately cut sleeves.

I could possibly understand that a lot of the other clothes make more sense in Japan where Yohji is less expensive and distribution a bit wider to really emphasize the need of an accessible ready-to-wear wardrobe that a lot of different people can buy into (hence the insistence on certain shapes of jackets, shirts, trousers and skirts that have always existed in the Yohji universe), but for overseas markets, these pieces are just too expensive to really 'wow' a customer that probably buys into this brand and aesthetic for more than a decade.

 

[runner]

I thought you were referring mainly to all the lines from Y's the other day. now it is certain that your eye differs in interpretation from mine, since it's difficult for me to confuse +noir with Y's.

what you seem to demand is almost what zizek calls event. it's wrong to expect it of someone mature. it's the job of younger generations, as yohji (together with rei) did it 35 years ago.

all the efforts they make could be towards developing relationship with new customers while catering to those who are around "for more than a decade".

 

[tricotineacetat]

I thought you were referring mainly to all the lines from Y's the other day. now it is certain that your eye differs in interpretation from mine, since it's difficult for me to confuse +noir with Y's.

what you seem to demand is almost what zizek calls event. it's wrong to expect it of someone mature. it's the job of younger generations, as yohji (together with rei) did it 35 years ago.

all the efforts they make could be towards developing relationship with new customers while catering to those who are around "for more than a decade".

I'm not asking for spectacles for the sake of it but generally an evolvement of the collection alongside the customer. Jil Sander and Helmut Lang also evolved further from the original story they started in the 90ies, if those businesses consisted only of the building blocks of their wardrobe, customers would have those after few years of buying into those designers. I'm not admitting it is becoming harder to propose something new after being in business for more than 30 years but I thought Jil Sander did beautifully when she came back during her two brief stints back designing her collection. I am also not saying that the runway format is fundamentally important for that but in my previous comment in the rismat thread, I pointed out that Y's seemed somewhat stronger in identity when they still had a show for it in Paris - just as the Yohji femme collection is generally more distinct than the other lines.

 

[runner]

I'm not saying you are asking for spectacles, but that undermining the existing scheme or frame is not yohji's job, since you started to talk about the price differential this time, apparently in the name of the overseas retailer who seems as if all they have were a customer supporting YY for more than a decade. I think deepening is the honest way to go.

as for evolvement and revival, if you had been watching since the 70's, you know he did them far much more than helmut lang and jil sander. he certainly lived more than twice or died a few times already.

again I'm pointing out the difference in perception. for many of the wearers growing alongside YY from "the original story", the Y's identity looked blurred back then.

 

[softgrey]

i think you both make valid comments here runner and tric...
there is definitely some sense of repetition...
but i think that the lines are actually more clearly defined now...

Y's is definitely more casual (with khakis, sweaters and jeans) and +NOIR is more elegant (with jackets and skirts/trousers)...

i can see two different lifestyles represented...
for me, +noir is better suited to my lifestyle and tastes, though i definitely am starting to find pieces that i like from Y's again...

the line i am starting to have trouble with is Regulation- (supposedly based on uniforms)
i think it started out strong but is starting to wander a bit...
i'm a bit disappointed about that...
i want some olive green fatigue stuff and camo and nautical elements...
and lots of hats and belts!

I could possibly understand that a lot of the other clothes make more sense in Japan where Yohji is less expensive and distribution a bit wider to really emphasize the need of an accessible ready-to-wear wardrobe that a lot of different people can buy into (hence the insistence on certain shapes of jackets, shirts, trousers and skirts that have always existed in the Yohji universe), but for overseas markets, these pieces are just too expensive to really 'wow' a customer that probably buys into this brand and aesthetic for more than a decade.

the price definitely is a hurdle...
no doubt...
but i must say this...
depending on customers who have been loyal for many many years is a big risk...
i think it must be the job of the retailer to cultivate new customers for their merchandise and not to simply rely on the old ones coming back...
certainly there are many multitudes of potential customers who do not already own the core pieces which make up the yohji foundation (those types of jackets, for example)...
just because i already bought a few, i don't think he should stop making them...
in fact, i would be confused if he did...
it's important for the rest of those customers who haven't yet got one...

for any retailer- if you know what your pre-existing customers already have purchased because you have been serving them for many years, it would seem to me that you would buy with that in mind and strive to carry items which would go very well with what they already have in their closets...
when i was in retail, we called that "wardrobing the customer"...

anyway- there are a number of looks i like in their entirety...
but i usually find that when they are pulled apart and seen individually, the pieces are actually much stronger than one would suspect based on any look book imagery...

i wish i could see the hats and shoes better...
they look really good...

 

[softgrey]

this is a "wow" for me...
http://forums.thefashionspot.com/at...how i would start the buy on this line... ^_^