Nominations for the 2013 Designer of the Year for the "Tiffies"
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Chitose Abe from Sacai
Her designs are among the most widely copied. You see her influence in every collection, yet she manages to stay one step ahead of all the imitators and improve every year, coming up with even more innovative designs while sticking to her very distinctive point of view. She is also very good at the business side of things and has broken out of her native Japan to gain international success.
Sacai Designer Chitose Abe Talks Her Not-So-Overnight Success
by Lauren Sherman
1 Comment
Sacai designer Chitose Abe at her Barneys New York trunk show. Photo: BFA
There are very few fashion insider “secrets” these days. Isabel Marant, COS, and Maje are all brands that flew far under the radar for many years before being exposed by the internet as the next Greatest Brand in the World. And that’s probably a good thing: the more democratic and open fashion becomes, the better dressed we all will be.
The next label poised to receive that sort of sensational attention is Sacai, the Japanese brand designed by Chitose Abe, who spent eight years working for Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe before launching her own company in 1999. Almost five years ago, Abe significantly raised her global fashion industry profile by choosing to show her collection at Paris Fashion Week. Presently, she has modern influencers (Susie Lau in particular) and industry stalwarts (Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld, Susie Menkes) alike singing her praises. In celebration of her newfound fame, Abe visited Barneys’ Madison Avenue flagship on Wednesday to host her first-ever trunk show with the department store.
What I find so interesting about Abe is her ability to take simple silhouettes—a trench coat, a lace skirt, an anorak—and transform them into something…different. I had the opportunity to speak with the designer yesterday about what drives her designs.
Fashionista: What’s your design philosophy?
That’s kind of a hard question. I like things that are classic and traditional, but juxtaposed with something new and fresh.
Can you tell me a little about your design process?
It starts with the fabrics. They’re made from scratch.
Would you say your work is subversive? Your trench-coat dress, for instance: there’s something almost cheeky about it.
There’s certainly a deeper meaning to my clothes, but I’m not sure I would call them subversive. I don’t want to be too conceptual. I want the pieces to be wearable. It’s very important to me.
How has showing in Paris and increased recognition in the US affected your business?
Greatly. Before, the collection was mostly bought by those in the know. Now, a wider range of people are shopping for Sacai.
You spent many years working under Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe. What was the most important thing that you learned from them?
There are two things: The drive to create newness, and the ability to maintain a balance between creativity and business. Business isn’t just about increasing sales. There needs to be creativity in how you structure your business as well.
Can you explain what you mean by that?
Well, for instance, most businesses rush to open a standalone store—it’s an important way to make money. I waited over a decade to open my first boutique until I was completely satisfied with the location, the space, everything. The philosophy is to do things right, not fast.
fashionista.com
Her designs are among the most widely copied. You see her influence in every collection, yet she manages to stay one step ahead of all the imitators and improve every year, coming up with even more innovative designs while sticking to her very distinctive point of view. She is also very good at the business side of things and has broken out of her native Japan to gain international success.
Sacai Designer Chitose Abe Talks Her Not-So-Overnight Success
by Lauren Sherman
1 Comment
Sacai designer Chitose Abe at her Barneys New York trunk show. Photo: BFAThere are very few fashion insider “secrets” these days. Isabel Marant, COS, and Maje are all brands that flew far under the radar for many years before being exposed by the internet as the next Greatest Brand in the World. And that’s probably a good thing: the more democratic and open fashion becomes, the better dressed we all will be.
The next label poised to receive that sort of sensational attention is Sacai, the Japanese brand designed by Chitose Abe, who spent eight years working for Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe before launching her own company in 1999. Almost five years ago, Abe significantly raised her global fashion industry profile by choosing to show her collection at Paris Fashion Week. Presently, she has modern influencers (Susie Lau in particular) and industry stalwarts (Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld, Susie Menkes) alike singing her praises. In celebration of her newfound fame, Abe visited Barneys’ Madison Avenue flagship on Wednesday to host her first-ever trunk show with the department store.
What I find so interesting about Abe is her ability to take simple silhouettes—a trench coat, a lace skirt, an anorak—and transform them into something…different. I had the opportunity to speak with the designer yesterday about what drives her designs.
Fashionista: What’s your design philosophy?
That’s kind of a hard question. I like things that are classic and traditional, but juxtaposed with something new and fresh.
Can you tell me a little about your design process?
It starts with the fabrics. They’re made from scratch.
Would you say your work is subversive? Your trench-coat dress, for instance: there’s something almost cheeky about it.
There’s certainly a deeper meaning to my clothes, but I’m not sure I would call them subversive. I don’t want to be too conceptual. I want the pieces to be wearable. It’s very important to me.
How has showing in Paris and increased recognition in the US affected your business?
Greatly. Before, the collection was mostly bought by those in the know. Now, a wider range of people are shopping for Sacai.
You spent many years working under Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe. What was the most important thing that you learned from them?
There are two things: The drive to create newness, and the ability to maintain a balance between creativity and business. Business isn’t just about increasing sales. There needs to be creativity in how you structure your business as well.
Can you explain what you mean by that?
Well, for instance, most businesses rush to open a standalone store—it’s an important way to make money. I waited over a decade to open my first boutique until I was completely satisfied with the location, the space, everything. The philosophy is to do things right, not fast.
fashionista.com
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softgrey
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Peter Copping at Nina Ricci
Copping has been doing amazing things for the label. The clothes are the epitome of Parisian chic- sexy and strong and utterly feminine...
whilst being thoroughly modern...and unique...
figure flattering and wearable...
The quality of the fabrics and the draping techniques are exquisite. Some of the best clothes on the market today.
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2013RTW-NRICCI
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/2013PF-NRICCI
Copping has been doing amazing things for the label. The clothes are the epitome of Parisian chic- sexy and strong and utterly feminine...
whilst being thoroughly modern...and unique...
figure flattering and wearable...
The quality of the fabrics and the draping techniques are exquisite. Some of the best clothes on the market today.
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2013RTW-NRICCI
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/2013PF-NRICCI
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BetteT
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VOTE NOW! Finalists are posted.
Please cast your final votes during November: http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/346911-vote-for-the-tfs-style-awards-2013/
Winners of the 2013 Tiffies will be posted in December.
Please cast your final votes during November: http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/346911-vote-for-the-tfs-style-awards-2013/
Winners of the 2013 Tiffies will be posted in December.
BetteT
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tFS Style Awards ... The "Tiffies" ... 2013 WINNERS ARE ANNOUNCED!
The Votes are in. Please go here to see the results of the first annual TIFFIES! http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway...ners/#/slide/1
The Votes are in. Please go here to see the results of the first annual TIFFIES! http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway...ners/#/slide/1
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