Patou S/S 2026 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

LVMH's Self Portrait

 

[Avonlea]

This is so cheap looking.

 

[Lola701]

This is the problem with Guillaume Henry to me…
He wanted this job. They relaunched the fashion for him and then, he does this.
We are not in 1995 anymore for those suits to be shown…
And I don’t understand what the lace catsuit is doing in the middle of Carolina Herrera’s dresses.

Patou could be their competition (in terms of aesthetic at least) to Giambattista Valli. But after so many seasons, it doesn’t seems like he knows who is his clientele.

 

[LadyJunon]

After SS25 and FW25, this collection looks really dated. Especially, those skirt suits...

 

[Lola701]

Anna was at the show. They are giving their all this season.
Maybe her presence will have an influence and send a message to buyers as Patou depends a lot on wholesale.

 

[oioioi]

Self-Portrait is not my cup of tea but at least very successful in their range of dresses within their aesthetic.
The stereotype of this type of client I don't believe would go to Patou for these items?
Some points it almost looks like a parody, proportions of some of the prints and fits are reminding of some moments in Jeremy Scott's Moschino where he would do a play on 50/60's.
Well at least LVMH have been philanthropic here.

 

[MModa]

Classic looks are not dated. I like the ladylike looks and the return to elegance.

 

[jeanclaude]

Classic looks are not dated. I like the ladylike looks and the return to elegance.

The problem is these are classic looks through 80s lens...that´s why it looks dated.

80s Patou by Lacroix...if he wants to copy from the past, he´d better do 20s and 30s Patou (when the brand was in its peak).

 

[tricotineacetat]

I rarely ever enjoy a gaudy fashion statement but I really appreciate how it’s done here - Some of the dresses are giving that same 80ies Saint Laurent/Ungaro/Givenchy party girl moment also seen in Hedi Slimane’s final Saint Laurent collection - Love the use of black tafettas with the gathered bodices and exploding peplums and bows as well as the florals (in both black and white and pastel colors) used towards the finale of the show.

For a small brand as Patou, wrapping this party dress story up with lace tights and statement necklaces is enough, I’m not certain if customers want to buy shoes from this house, cause they would need to be more competitive and with an identity of it’s own when really, all that’s needed is a sleek pointy toe pumps with a stiletto heel that Saint Laurent or Louboutin already offers.

What I think this collection would have needed is knitwear where instead they used those unforgivable tiny bras where a fine gauge twin set would have provided a better looking alternative.

 

[Alquimista]

Atrocious. He have no idea what the brand is about. I'm not a dogmatic "follow the CODES" believer, but wtf.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Atrocious. He have no idea what the brand is about. I'm not a dogmatic "follow the CODES" believer, but wtf.

Simple, it’s a collection aimed at young women who love the chic of vintage couture from bygone decades of Paris Haute Couture, but with a cheeky take. We have seen a lot of interest on vintage couture on social media lately and Patou taps into this style, with a similar market positioning as Carven.

A lot of the better dresses unashamedly reference vintage Balenciaga, Ungaro, Givenchy. All that’s missing are opera gloves of the kind of hairdos women wore in those eras.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Simple, it’s a collection aimed at young women who love the chic of vintage couture from bygone decades of Paris Haute Couture, but with a cheeky take. We have seen a lot of interest on vintage couture on social media lately and Patou taps into this style, with a similar market positioning as Carven.

A lot of the better dresses unashamedly reference vintage Balenciaga, Ungaro, Givenchy. All that’s missing are opera gloves of the kind of hairdos women wore in those eras.

Very Giambattista Valli but second line
Also the now defunct Red Valentino

 

[Alquimista]

Simple, it’s a collection aimed at young women who love the chic of vintage couture from bygone decades of Paris Haute Couture, but with a cheeky take. We have seen a lot of interest on vintage couture on social media lately and Patou taps into this style, with a similar market positioning as Carven.

A lot of the better dresses unashamedly reference vintage Balenciaga, Ungaro, Givenchy. All that’s missing are opera gloves of the kind of hairdos women wore in those eras.

I don't think the group of young women who want to dress like nancy reagan is that big tbh .

 

[Thefrenchy]

Literally never heard anyone in my life tell me they wear this brand -- and I work in the industry. How are they even operating is a mystery to me.

 

[oioioi]

Literally never heard anyone in my life tell me they wear this brand -- and I work in the industry. How are they even operating is a mystery to me.

There was a small article last week mentioning LVMH are trying to raise capital for Patou as it has reported 30million euros in losses (and profits from LV and Dior covers the loss making brands like Patou, Kenzo, Givenchy).
Their CEO Sophie Brocart departed end of 2024 for Chanel, depends what they're really planning for its next stages.
I saw a couple of times their buzzy pop-ups at Le Bon Marche and the presentation reminded me a bit of Jacquemus in comparison.
Henry has said his idea for Patou is 'a friendly couture brand' at a contemporary price point.