The F/W 2026.27 Show Schedules...
Originally posted by Spacemiu@Sep 8 2004, 03:13 PM
it's cute, not my style but cute, the croped velvet jacket with bow is very nice
it seems very Rebbeca Taylor influenced though
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Who is this model?Originally posted by kimair@Sep 8 2004, 01:52 PM
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Perry Ellis: Let’s hope that, between them, the folks at Public Clothing Company and Perry Ellis International have the good sense to keep this thing going, because with Patrick Robinson directing women’s wear for the label — whether destined for better, contemporary or both — it has the building blocks for a major success story.
Robinson jumped out of the gate a year ago with an ultragirly better collection, its frivolity and vintage-y eccentricity tempered by a clever utilitarianism. So clever, in fact, that one might miss it, which was apparently an issue for the various suits involved, who feared too much fashion and too little of the same-old, same-old that typically sells in better departments. The argument goes that better is no place for even the minimal trappings of frou. But then, those ladies can’t buy what’s not there, so why not give them the chance to doll up a bit?
That said, this collection definitely has a contemporary look, which suits Robinson just fine — and he maintains he’s got the retail ammunition to fuel his upscale ambitions. “Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys [New York], Harvey Nichols — have all been interested,” he said during a walk-through of his presentation on Tuesday. “I see this next to Marc by Marc [Jacobs].”
Surely this effort could facilitate such an elevation. Robinson continued the collection’s feminine identity while moving deftly from the overt vintage attitude of the last two seasons. All pasteled, ruffled, brocaded and, yes, chinoed, the tight lineup of just 18 looks offered a do-it-your-way bounty in mixed colors, textures and even a few boyish touches. A very Perry sweater and ruffled shorts looked “Pretty Baby,” and the pink velvet-sashed white silk dress, ultraingenue. But the appeal here shouldn’t be limited to the underage set, since many of the skirts, pants and small jackets could easily swing toward chic, albeit young, matron types. Either way, it worked beautifully.
Robinson said that he had halted negotiations to focus on his day job, but that he wants to “start talking again tomorrow.” Discussions had focused on his employment switching from Public Clothing to P.E.I., which has not produced its own women’s collection since Jacobs’ infamous grunge collection in 1993. That company would produce a Robinson-designed contemporary collection, Perry Ellis Signature, which would look essentially like the one shown on Wednesday. Public Clothing would produce a better line under Robinson’s direction that would, he promised, reflect the same sensibility. “I’ve worked in a pyramid,” Robinson said. “The top would definitely trickle down. Everybody says that, but what usually happens is that all of the fashion gets stripped away. I won’t do that.”
Originally posted by softgrey@Sep 8 2004, 07:28 PM
it's at an awkward pricepoint and is a hard sell...not expensive enough to be designer...but too pricey for contemporary... it's hard for a store to know where to place it...and i don't think the investors want to do high end so much...but more mass market...i also think they want a faster return on their investment...but it does take a minute or two to revive a brand from near extinction... patrick will have the last laugh i'm sure...anyway...everything seems to be worked out for now...
yay!!! patrick...!!!
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I wish Patrick continued success.

The artful mix is a hallmark of modern fashion, but it can be a perilous approach. One too many vintage references and the whole effort crumbles into thrift store pastiche. There is no danger of that happening at Perry Ellis, where Patrick Robinson showed yet another strong collection that showcased his skill at making oddball combinations work as persuasively sophisticated sportswear.
Once again, Robinson wisely opted for a small walk-through presentation, with just 18 looks on a band of fair-haired models, all bee-stung lips and Pre-Raphaelite tresses. He merged retro and modern, regal with humble, and played strict masculine tailoring (a skill he refined while working for Giorgio Armani) against giggly, sweet femininity. Robinson put a matelassé mustard bolero atop jean-tailored khakis, or a filmy black ruched blouse against a dense jacquard pencil skirt, or a royal-blue top with lime-green beading over a taupe skirt covered in ribbon. Workaday seersucker and polished cotton countered richer materials like jacquard, velvet, and chiffon, while shapes were simple and wearable: plenty of variations on the pencil skirt, neat full-leg trousers in crisp fabrics, and tops cut close but not skintight, accented with a touch of seventies-era peasant chic in the pintucking and embroidered touches. Plenty of designers can throw together some pieces and call it fashion; the difference (and the delight) at Perry Ellis is watching Robinson turn that into a realistic, wearable proposition.