Peter Do F/W 2023.24 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[helmutnotdead]

one of the most pretentious things I’ve ever seen.

 

[perhydrol]

351 looks and yet, nothing to be actually excited about. I somehow agree with the review on Vogue Runway that the brand's growth had been to rapid and now they need to go back to their roots. Overflooding us with the looks is not the way, tho.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

How tedious and obnoxious.

It actually defeats his own goals as you can't really see the clothes and no one is going to bother to try.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Like that meme says: "I ain't reading all that."

Frustrating trajectory this brand has taken.

 

[jeanclaude]

Headache inducing. Show us the clothes, not all the stylist tricks you can make with them!

 

[LadyJunon]

Honestly, his first six collections (Spring'19 to Fall'21) were his best. They looked so modern, dynamic and razor-sharp. There was an undertone of sexiness is those collections too, like Jil Sander and Helmut Lang.

The first show took that sharpness and dulled the edges. That collection looked so boxy, heavy and matronly, like an slightly edgy The Row. The two shows after that looked tortured; straps, buckles and strings everywhere, poorly tailored leather suits, those counterfeit Kiss boots he put on every look last season.

Then we have this season, his laziest. In the Vogue Runway article, he actually admitted to taking 20 or so pieces from his permanent offering and styling them to create 300+ looks.

It shows.

One of the look is a model wearing just tights, another is a model wearing a coat backwards (not cut to be worn like that) and 9 of them are topless (breasts covered à la Ann D by LdSS).

And now, he's possibly planning a show in Paris for September? Next to the diversity of large and medium sized corporate houses, niche (semi-)independents and more wild, cool brands, he won't have the strong voice he did in the aesthetically bifurcated New-York...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It's just so bloody fussy and layered. Even the knits/jersey are unnecessarily complicated, despite a lot of them being presented as singular pieces.

There also isn't any emotion in the clothes which makes it tricky with Do's penchant for black. Yamamoto brings so much poetry to his clothes that even a collection in all black has dynamism to it. Same as early Ann. Here everything looks like costume or cosplay where there's no point of view so the clothes have zero presence. Plus, for someone always touted as a great constructor of their garments you barely see any of it because of how flat the fabrics are.

They're a designer that thrives well on social media in similar vein to Jacquemus or Ludovic, but really there's next to nothing beneath the surface.

 

[LadyJunon]

It's just so bloody fussy and layered. Even the knits/jersey are unnecessarily complicated, despite a lot of them being presented as singular pieces.

There also isn't any emotion in the clothes which makes it tricky with Do's penchant for black. Yamamoto brings so much poetry to his clothes that even a collection in all black has dynamism to it. Same as early Ann. Here everything looks like costume or cosplay where there's no point of view so the clothes have zero presence. Plus, for someone always touted as a great constructor of their garments you barely see any of it because of how flat the fabrics are.

They're a designer that thrives well on social media in similar vein to Jacquemus or Ludovic, but really there's next to nothing beneath the surface.

LdSS and Jacquemus can be more 2D in the approach, because they stand out more because they can use colour, the first thing we recognise, to communicate their designs.

Do doesn't have that privilege, working predominantly in black and white, his work would depend on silhouette, shape and texture to say what a colour normally would.

Ann Demeulemeester had a quote in French (paraphrasing here) saying that black can symbolise anything one desires it to, but a black that has nothing to say is a "dead black".

 

[jeanclaude]

LdSS and Jacquemus can be more 2D in the approach, because they stand out more because they can use colour, the first thing we recognise, to communicate their designs.

Do doesn't have that privilege, working predominantly in black and white, his work would depend on silhouette, shape and texture to say what a colour normally would.

Ann Demeulemeester had a quote in French (paraphrasing here) saying that black can symbolise anything one desires it to, but a black that has nothing to say is a "dead black".

Peter is "back to black" like Amy Winehouse sang...back to emptiness.

 

[disco54]

He made outfits for the entire college campus but not one is interesting lol

 

[Deleted member 1957]

I would never click on any look from a 351 look collection.