Peter Do F/W 2024.25 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[perhydrol]

Yet another modular collection nobody really asked for because I truly don't believe people buy whole Peter Do's collections as a complete wardrobe. And while I get that the brand is small and relatively young, I feel like he's already done and doesn't have anything new to add or say.

 

[Koibito]

I don’t get it. The clothes have nothing to do with Ao Dai (Vietnamese traditional costume) but he named the collection “Ao Dai” anyway.

I thought he had the right move to not hold a show for this lol

 

[philophile]

While this and his last collection have been lacking the creativity he once offered, I do believe he is a very talented individual who is interested in getting better at his craft (his designs are already razor-sharp tailored pieces). I also believe he is a truly nice, caring person which is a rarity in this industry. His designs have already made a huge impact in the fashion world and I appreciate his unique creative vision. I truly believe he will overcome this inspiration block, if that is the case, but maybe it is a deliverate attempt to create timeless basics in a trend-driven and environmentally destructive fashion industry that relies on planned obsolence for maximum profit.

 

[Lola701]

The funny thing about my appreciation of Do’s work is that on paper, I should enjoy it. It’s minimal, menswear inspired and all the bla-bla-bla but I’m still not impressed.

And my issue is always the same: unrecognizable clothes. There’s nothing distinctive about his approach. It could be anybody.

I don’t think people in Paris cares for it but all the buyers are here so it make sense for him to have this platform.

 

[philophile]

And my issue is always the same: unrecognizable clothes. There’s nothing distinctive about his approach. It could be anybody.

Oh, I wholeheartedly disagree. His first collections absolutely stood out from anything created last decade (they still look like the future) and were pretty recognizable, this is exactly why he became so big. He even created his own fabric, which he called 'Spacer' and collaborated with Zaha Hadid, one of the most recognizable architects in the world, who noticed his talent and his architectural fashion designs while she was still alive. That says, at the very least, something.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Feel however you want about Peter Do, but the shoes and accessories are objectively TERRIBLE… maybe I’m biased because I never liked his brand.

 

[Lola701]

Oh, I wholeheartedly disagree. His first collections absolutely stood out from anything created last decade (they still look like the future) and were pretty recognizable, this is exactly why he became so big. He even created his own fabric, which he called 'Spacer' and collaborated with Zaha Hadid, one of the most recognizable architects in the world, who noticed his talent and his architectural fashion designs while she was still alive. That says, at the very least, something.

Given his resume, it wasn’t difficult to stand out in NYFW…
I don’t find his clothes recognizable. I can go to Sandro, buy a blazer two times my size and say it’s Peter Do and nobody would question it.
When I look at a collection I love the idea that I can recognize by who it is.
My respect for Zaha Hadid work will not probably have an impact on my perception on his work.
But you are a hardcore Philophile lol. So I understand that you are rooting for everybody from there.
I’m a soft core Philophile. I’m rooting for Phoebe and Daniel Lee lol (I don’t include Blazy in that school).

 

[philophile]

But you are a hardcore Philophile lol. So I understand that you are rooting for everybody from there.

I had zero clue that Do worked for Céline when first discovered him on Tumblr and his designs spoke to me (as someone with an architectural background).

 

[Kanzai]

I'm a half Vietnamese/Russian myself and was born in Hanoi so i can confirm that none of this sh*t has anything to do with Ao Dai ( one of our traditional garments, the most well known )

 

[UltimateF1]

I'm surprised that he went from so sleek and elegant outfits to such baggy and shapeless menswear. He really had something going on there... I guess he's now fully focusing on Helmut Lang and his brand suffers as result...

 

[philophile]

I'm a half Vietnamese/Russian myself and was born in Hanoi so i can confirm that none of this sh*t has anything to do with Ao Dai ( one of our traditional garments, the most well known )

I was expecting to see something like that, as I love Ao Dai (I own for many years an Ao Dai inspired top by Nanushka, which I will never get rid of). Vietnam has a nowadays an emerging fashion scene, which I enjoy a lot. Traditional Vietnamese fashion is super inspiring and beautiful and I love how some of these brands are translating these garments to a modern, minimalist language.

 

[Kanzai]

^Ao Dai is the costumes that was born in our most recent feudal dynasty. In the previous eras, garments were quite similar to those of China, Japan, and Korea. Sinosphere countries

 

[Kennnnn]

Some of the pieces in this collection look like copies of Hed Mayner's work.

 

[lhhbl]

With the exception of the cuts in the back I acrually really like it and the boy knows how to work a white shirt.
I specially like looks 5 and 25 but I agree that there’s some more identity to be explored!

 

[Gazillion]

A friend of Peter Do's told me that his design had been going downhill ever since he got a European investor and hired some PR guy who knew nothing about fashion design. He's been hanging out with the wrong people.
His early work was so great!! You immediately know it's his design. I hope he won't be the next Dion Lee. not lose himself...

 

[philophile]

A friend of Peter Do's told me that his design had been going downhill ever since he got a European investor and hired some PR guy who knew nothing about fashion design. He's been hanging out with the wrong people.
His early work was so great!! You immediately know it's his design. I hope he won't be the next Dion Lee. not lose himself...

My husband (who knows nothing about fashion) said that this exactly could be the reason. Ah venture capitalism, how not to love it! Oh and spot on regarding Dion Lee. I used to be a huge fan and I have no idea what happened to him in the past year with all that S&M inspired fashion.

 

[tricotineacetat]

My husband (who knows nothing about fashion) said that this exactly could be the reason. Ah venture capitalism, how not to love it! Oh and spot on regarding Dion Lee. I used to be a huge fan and I have no idea what happened to him in the past year with all that S&M inspired fashion.

Hanging out with Gen-Z club kids and riding with them the Y2K bandwagon, that's what happened with him. Isn't that kinda obvious?

 

[philophile]

Hanging out with Gen-Z club kids and riding with them the Y2K bandwagon, that's what happened with him. Isn't that kinda obvious?

I get what you are saying (even though I love minimalist Y2K fashion), but whoever he hangs out with is not telling him what he should design, it's the one handing out the money who makes the rules. It's the sad truth nowadays. This is the reason for the enshittification of everything including even websites or apps like Pinterest and others. Things are no longer produced to serve a costumer or even to efficiently provide a service, they are produced exclusively to increase profit (and the latter does not equal the former), even if it is counterintuitive and illogical.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I get what you are saying (even though I love minimalist Y2K fashion), but whoever he hangs out with is not telling him what he should design, it's the one handing out the money who makes the rules. It's the sad truth nowadays. This is the reason for the enshittification of everything including even websites or apps like Pinterest and others. Things are no longer produced to serve a costumer or even to efficiently provide a service, they are produced exclusively to increase profit (and the latter does not equal the former), even if it is counterintuitive and illogical.

A lot of fashion strategists and trend agencies target Gen-Z as one of the most important customers of today, you need not look further than the success of Demna's Balenciaga and how far his products and influence have spread to understand it makes sense to leverage the commonly known social media channels and influencers to promote an independent designer brand. Dion Lee did that, gifted a lot of his clothes to music/nightlife industry people and uses that as a promotional tool. It's not even an open secret.