Peter Do F/W 2024.25 Paris

[philophile]

A lot of fashion strategists and trend agencies target Gen-Z as one of the most important customers of today, you need not look further than the success of Demna's Balenciaga and how far his products and influence have spread to understand it makes sense to leverage the commonly known social media channels and influencers to promote an independent designer brand. Dion Lee did that, gifted a lot of his clothes to music/nightlife industry people and uses that as a promotional tool. It's not even an open secret.

I completely misunderstood your initial reply, and yeah, definitely agree with you 100%. And it's definitely not hard to notice Dion Lee's connection to the music/nightlife industry, especially in the last year, when his clothes started to change a lot. Furthermore, a big part of Gen-Z really does really have a taste for the grotesque, which is kinda ironic coming from a generation that mentions 'aesthetics' in every second sentence. I guess it's their way to be 'rebels', but I blame it mostly on the Kardashian influence.

 

[Deleted member 141309]

I don’t get it. The clothes have nothing to do with Ao Dai

I can easily explain this one. Ao Dai here means not the traditional costume, it is a portmanteau and a wordplay at the same time of "A Do AI", as in AI + Peter Do + an article "A", because this abomination looks like it was designed by an AI that was fed rejected looks from his previous collections, black Celine clothes and some MGC tulle looks. Then the AI went rogue and produced this collection for Peter, therefore "Ao Dai", or probably "A Do AI". It has nothing to do with Vietnamese traditional and quite elegant clothing.

 

[WAVES]

I’m not super familiarised with his work (need to go refresh my knowledge and check some of his previous ones as I do remember checking his work but… @philophile any recommendation collections wise?

nonetheless, regarding this one I feel like it would’ve been stronger had he worked around the volume and sharpness he offers in some of his designs because either as a styling trick or original conception, all that layering feels rather disconnected, immature…

 

[philophile]

I’m not super familiarised with his work (need to go refresh my knowledge and check some of his previous ones as I do remember checking his work but… @philophile any recommendation collections wise?

nonetheless, regarding this one I feel like it would’ve been stronger had he worked around the volume and sharpness he offers in some of his designs because either as a styling trick or original conception, all that layering feels rather disconnected, immature…

Check out SS2019 , SS2022, and SS2023. Honestly I love them all from 2019 to SS2023. And I agree with you regarding working around the usual volume and sharpness of his previous designs having potentially helped this collection.

 

[WAVES]

Check out SS2019 , SS2022, and SS2023. Honestly I love them all from 2019 to SS2023. And I agree with you regarding working around the usual volume and sharpness of his previous designs having potentially helped this collection.

what an interesting overview of Do’s designs! I had to look at all of the collections available on the website.
very insightful when it comes to understand his line of work.

thank you ever so much philophile for this info!

 

[Nimsay]

Please this is garbage and hardly fashion. Get this alexander wang impersonator his things and send him on his way.


I briefly (swiped through fast) looked at 2019 and Im not impressed at all.

 

[Phuel]

There’s not a hint of any minimalism in his designs nowadays. He’s become so contrived, so overwrought, so cluttered, so forced, so juvenile— like the showoff graduating student who has to cram 30 ideas from 30 coveted legendary designers into a single look. But in the process, not a single fresh proposal, and not a whiff of his own POV. It’s an eyesore, frankly (…except for the male model…)

He was so much more refreshing when he was showing in NYC, and doing his Phoebe’s Celine separates-lite: Solid dressmaking, studied tailoring, with good knitwear. It’s only when he’s forcing some statement signature look that he’s become so directionless, so desperate, so pointless. If he lays off the design-by-marketing committee like this here, maybe he’ll have a POV again. Unfortunate that’s not going to happen since he's so pretentious now.

 

[jeanclaude]

It´s bland; but it is better than whatever he thinks he is doing at Helmut Lang.

 

[YohjiAddict]

^To be honest I don’t know which is direr. Helmut Lang was random and passé, very throwing ideas at the wall to see what sticks (nothing did). This one is more of the same, rehashing ideas from his very limited repertoire in a way that doesn’t excite or ignite desire, for they’re a more diluted version of the garments he made in his more promising beginnings.

Either way it’s clear proof of a limited imagination straining to fulfill the demands of a brand in need of consolidating and a legacy name in need of reviving, failing to do both.