Even after a near-sleepless night partying with friends and an early morning helicopter flight to Trieste, Diesel owner Renzo Rosso seemed to be loving it all — catching up with the young designers at the Hotel Riviera on the city’s coast line, the thrill of searching for new talent and the knowledge of actively shaping their futures. “Supporting new designers is part of our DNA,” Rosso said. “We now list 55 designers working at Diesel and we grow thanks to their pure, new and always-fresh creativity.” It is this quest for creativity that spurred Rosso to endorse the International Talent Support program four years ago. Every year, the ITS Diesel Award grants $3,000, or 2,500 euros at current exchange rates, and produces five pieces labeled with the name of the winner, which are sold at main Diesel stores around the world. “We are not looking for experienced designers,” Rosso said. “We believe in grooming [creativity], and when you discover new talents, they are faithful and loyal to you.” Barbara Franchin, director and project supervisor of EVE agency, which organizes ITS, said designers this year sent projects revolving around death and its symbols, such as skeletons, closed mouths, covered heads, red stitching or, entirely on the other end of the spectrum, flowers and butterflies, as well as “a downpour of denim, which works well in so many different ways, is not too costly and can be produced anywhere,” she said. Franchin said that she was proud of the relationship built with the fashion houses and that a number of previous contestants were working for Dolce & Gabbana, Yohji Yamamoto, Versace and Moschino, among others. Organizers said the number of applicant designers this year grew to 700, from 70 countries and 174 schools around the world, compared with 460 in 2002. While ITS introduced a photography award sponsored by MINI International this year, Rosso said he was planning on adding awards for the interior design and accessories categories, including jewels, next year. ITS Four was held July 14-17 and, on the last evening, the 21 finalists staged a runway show presenting a selection of their collections. The winners were announced after the event: Marcus Lereng Wilmont of Denmark, who studied at the English Royal College of Art and School of Fashion & Textiles, won the Collection of the Year Award and $24,000, or 20,000 euros. His men in skirts blended European tailoring with Eastern tradition. Fine wools, leather and silks contrasted with exotic materials such as horse hair, metallic embroidery threads, embossed heraldry and antique buttons. Israeli Eli Effenberger took the Special Jury prize grant of $6,000, or 5,000 euros, and the Maria Luisa Award — a dedicated window at the Paris Maria Luisa boutique — with her striking illustrations and oversized kimonos made from Victorian tailcoat suits. The Diesel Award went to the German Christoph Froehlich and his deconstructed men’s wear pieces. I-D Styling Award, Ingeo Sustainability Award, WGSN Best Portfolio and Le Book Award were the other prizes granted by ITS. “It was a great and comprehensive collection, ready to be shipped to stores,” said Franco Pene, chairman of Gibò, who was one of 18 jurors, along with designers Antonio Berardi and Antonio Marras, Diesel creative director Wilbert Das, John Galliano studio head Elisa Palomino and Maria Luisa Poumaillou, owner of Maria Luisa boutique. Berardi said this contest was “much needed” at a time when “older designers don’t leave space” and Milan looks old. “Miuccia Prada is the only one that always pushes the boundaries and doesn’t play safe,” said the designer, who has decided to start showing in Paris in the fall. “There is an amazing level of design, with students [overturning] preconceptions related to their birth place. You would never guess in a million years the nationality of the Indian designer [Neelanjan Ghosh] by looking at his collection, as there’s none of the expected ethnic traits or embroideries.”