Prada F/W 2025.26 Milan

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Loved it. A very niche reference, but the collection reminded me of Elaine May in 1971's "A New Leaf"

I don't know that movie, but I was reminded of Monica Vitti in Michelangelo Antonioni's "Il deserto rosso".
The hair and some looks give very "industrial's wife losing her mind in northern Italy".

 

[tds]

My biggest problem aren’t the clothes but the casting. Get rid of the teenagers tattooed lazy drugged girls and put some WOMEN there

There’s not budget this time around? Set was the same of menswear, even Fendi could afforded some old names

It’s very lazy, Miuccia have a name, know it will sell effortlessly

I liked the fur, eyewear, footwear and some skirts

 

[reese06]

really loved this.

No tea no shade but this whole little section especially the look before it gave me bushwick transplant girl who is trying to cosplay as Carrie Bradshaw, meanwhile she looks like she had a manic episode while getting dressed

With that said, I thought some of the clothes were fine but there was no REAL fashion proposition like miuccia used to do back in the day. Too many ideas here and no real message. She is always a standout at outerwear though

 

[Creative]

Dull. Lifeless. Poor. Mediocre. Void.

Prada for me is like John Galliano or Nicolas Ghesquière. They can try to be cool, creative, current… but they are not. They belong to another era. Whatever they do now feels soulless and not even 1/10 of what they used to be.

They are geniuses and we love them for that, but their collections after 2010 feel like they lost it and will never get it back.

 

[proseccotabis]

My biggest problem aren’t the clothes but the casting. Get rid of the teenagers tattooed lazy drugged girls and put some WOMEN there

There’s not budget this time around? Set was the same of menswear, even Fendi could afforded some old names

It’s very lazy, Miuccia have a name, know it will sell effortlessly

I liked the fur, eyewear, footwear and some skirts

an interesting point you raised about casting
I thought the same as you and thought it was a deliberate choice to cast literal teenagers tattooed looking insane and asking them to have no character on the catwalk. again, as a metaphor to everything that is happening in the world right now, dull and maniac like.

 

[Frederic01]

I love the whole twisted bourgeois thing that 50% of this collection had. It felt very Prada. All the futuristic / Raf stuff was redundant though and should have been edited out. Those looks were dragging this into Raf Simons Collection territory.

Also, the footwear and the jewellery could have also really added a strong point of view to this collection if it were done properly. Both of those categories have been pretty lacklustre at Prada in the last few years. I can see why Prada fans are buying up big on vintage Prada shoes / jewellery / accessories in response to this.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I liked the idea of the collection, very Miu Miu Fall 2007 indeed with the messy hair and ill-proportioned/fitting everything, coupled with the carpeting and the scaffolding it gives a very eerie abandoned grand old state vibe HOWEVER the actual garments came out looking very “Pretty in Pink” where a girl with a passing knowledge of sewing grabbed some mid-century clothes from her auntie’s wardrobe and created some ungodly new concoction. The dresses worn with jeans are very maternity wear.

In fewer words, this collection could use some (quite a lot of) cleaning and tightening up. As a statement on the mad-house state of the world, it’s fine but in the past Prada made some similar statements with some method to the madness, and that is exactly what I’m not seeing here. It’s intriguing but not pretty to look at.

P.D: I did like the black sack dresses with some interesting moth-eaten detailing, the runway itself was cool.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Overcalculated ugliness...which Raf seems fond of. The oversized skirts are actually the most interesting parts of this collection, but they're styled in the WORST ways possible.

 

[Frederic01]

Also, some of those childrenswear-esque dresses and silhouettes reminded me of Miuccia's personal history, and this :

She [Miuccia] paid a visit to the Ferrari sisters, on Via Bigli, who are Milan’s most exclusive tailors of children’s clothes, and had dresses and coats made to order, scaled up to her size and with “corrections,” such as a bigger or smaller collar than the one that was there. She commissioned the Ferraris to create her wedding dress, too, and even though she mostly wears her own designs now, on occasion she still places an order there, and also at shops such as Cirri, in Florence, which she says makes the best sailor dresses around. You can trace her love of children’s clothes in some of the details that she likes to include, such as smocking, and in the way she uses undergarments modelled on children’s underwear.

NEWYORKER

 

[neogrotesque]

I like it, but I do desperately miss the Prada shoes of yore. The footwear is an utter snooze these days.

Add to that the accessories and bags and even the textiles. Ever since Raf joined all the fabrics look like paper and there's been a severe lack of surface embellishment. The true Prada woman always loved a little bit of retro whimsy imo

 

[Lorenzogi]

I loved the men's collection but this is atrocious. Getting angry even looking at this filth.
No woman is misogynistic enough to want to pay for this ugliness.

 

[fashionsavvvvvy]

I am neutral about this but why do i feel like the collection is small (less looks) despite it’s not?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Weirdly enough, this looks more like a Marni collection than the current one, but it still seems so empty spirited.

Since Raf came in, I can’t get over the shift there was with the fabrics. Even in one of Miuccia’s lesser collections, the textiles were still enriched with a strange beauty and were textural delights. Everything now looks like cardboard. I can’t bloody stand it. It emphasises such an impersonal touch to the idea of the Prada woman it really becomes as offensive as it is oppressive to look at.

 

[FashioNarrating]

This is quite the antidote to Fendi's "Look how luxe and classy ЄvЄrything is here" show and I kinda dig it for that, as an approach. It's rather bold in its refusal to servvve obvious richness on former supermodels or just some easily digestible bread & butter that becomes ubiquitous during every recession. I dislike chunks of it (some of the color choices are plain unappealing, they could've done without some of the carryovers from the menswear and there is a number of rather questionable skirts), but the black opening section, the mixed-fur jackets and the standout closing look are rather confident in their "this-is-all" sparsity. Actually, I wish Miuccia and Raf left the florals, little pastel zip jackets, pajama shirts and random jewelry attempts aside and dared to keep the collection - the men's as well - centered around stark wool smocks, suits and coats in dark colors with some brooch-like embellishments and killer footwear, similar to how Miuccia already did for Fall/Winter 2009 and scored a hit at the time.

 

[jeanclaude]

Well, I think this is starting to verge into Demna´s territory...no more "ugly chic"; but ugly for the sake of ugliness.

I love the carpet. I´d love to see a fitted coat made of it.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I'm chile tea