Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2012

[Prairie]

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed a polished Proenza Schouler collection with a techy edge. A sleeveless snap-up shirtdress with an A-line skirt and drawstring waist was like a chic reinterpretation of a Windbreaker in purple performance nylon, while engineered tweeds in bright colors were used on what McCollough called “our lady jackets,” cut in an oversize constructed shape.

wwd

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

It's funny, this looks like a lot of there usual stuff but I'm always a sucker for their fall clothes I like how it wasn't over-styled with clunky shoes or jewelry. The pumps just pull it all together~

 

[le perla]

It's a good collection, but I expected more. I have to say that the styling is a bit off, the pumps don't go with some of the outfits.

 

[liberty33r1b]

none of this looks very feminin, which I guess was their point. I just really love the luxurious fabrics, but I feel they could have done more with it....

 

[Selfportraitgrl]

Full collection

images via style.com

 

[Selfportraitgrl]

Full collection (cont)

images via style.com

 

[Psylocke]

I love the silhouettes and cuts and the color palette is awesome and it's very reminiscent of their F/W 2010 collection which I loved but the fabric choices make me not like this. I dislike the quilted pieces and I'm not a fan of those drawstrings everywhere (I know Proenza has done that before but to me it just looks cheap). The only true highlights in this collection for me are the turquoise mini dress and the boxy cropped black sweater with the dark green high-waisted skirt (it looks like that could actually be a dress, though?).

 

[lucy92]

i like that green crinkled (brocade?) material they use here.

i think they should avoid using that windbreaker material however. it looks cheap no matter how they cut they garment.

 

[valliaddict]

I really like this!!! The pants are to die for, and the colors are really great!!

 

[Crying Diamonds]

That midnight blue quilted dress is literally the silhouette I think of when I think of Proenza.
I love the volume of the drop-shoulder jackets, I love the textures, I love the palette, I'm less struck by the sort of water-proof dresses, they're more Alexander Wang's territory, but otherwise, to me, this is pushing fashion forward - these guys are unique in the way they design - they have interesting ideas and they match them with an incredible pair of trousers (is that sky-blue pair number four of pre-fall 2012?).
Really enjoy.

 

[Prairie]

They are quoting themselves, aren't they?

 

[helmut.newton]

Love the colour palette and the proportions. And the fabrics / quilting seems new for them. It will be interesting to see how this will translate into their Fall Winter collection!

 

[disco54]

This looks like late 80s school teacher outfits done in weather baloon/ windbreaker material.

 

[get fashion]

Sporty, sexy, modern, bold!
So in love with the shapes and materials, this boys are getting better, it's an amazing collection!

 

[softgrey]

They are quoting themselves, aren't they?

very much so, i agree...

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I like that rich green crinkle fabric too.

 

[Stereo_Flo]

by Mark Holgate​

If you had to essentialize what is terrific—and, to be honest, quite charming —about Proenza Schouler, this would be it. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough can talk you through pre-fall, and say in that offhand way of theirs, of a gorgeous quilted navy collarless coat, one zippered and banded with black, worn over a black nylon taffeta skirt and classic black early 60s spindly pumps, “We were just at Mount Everest, and we were looking at the sleeping bags they use in the Himalayas, so this collection has a lot of quilting. But we’re making it chic . . . and all that stuff.” And there you have it: an airy, light, almost goofy casualness about their creative process, that totally belies just how great their clothes end up being—and the kind of quiet yet deadly serious intent that they bring to the proceedings while they work on them.

Of course, Proenza Schouler’s vista of the world just got a lot larger than that from the top of a legendary mountain this past year. About six months ago they hooked up with Andrew Rosen (the fashion business whiz behind Theory and Rag & Bone), meaning plans for global expansion are no doubt busily being plotted. And if they commence putting that scheme into action, then a collection that is a virtual primer of all that Hernandez and McCollough do so well—which is to say, a kind of pristine, punked-up ladylike mode of dressing, sparked with plenty of sporty athletic detailing—is the way to go.

Given that the guys had just scaled Everest, those references were as carefully placed as a clamp on a rock face, so they didn’t look overdone—rip-cord drawstrings at the neck and waist of the dresses, or belts fashioned out of climbing rope. Elsewhere, they rendered the tweeds that have become their trademark in brilliant (in both senses of the word) color (vivid orange, emerald green) for looser-cut, round-shouldered coats and jackets, worn with tapered pants and nylon shirts. And there was a cool new sporty variant for evening, what they called “mountain jacquard” in that same green or deep purple-blue, for skirts that wrap round the body like bath towels, worn with either a bra top or a chunky sweater. Hernandez and McCollough showed how simple it was to wrap and unwrap that skirt, as quick as the Velcro fastenings on a mountaineering parka. But here, like everything else, it was evident just how much work had gone into these clothes to make them look that good, that easy, and that effortless.

-vogue​

By Nicole Phelps​

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough's recent trek through the Himalayas rubbed off on their pre-fall collection. We can see the magazine photo shoots now: Proenza Schouler girl on the side of a mountain in a nylon and mesh color-blocked shirtdress with bungee cord detailing, and on her feet, rubber-tipped pumps.

As sporty and technical as their reference points were—tweed jackets modeled after mountaineering parkas, button-downs made from windbreaker nylon, quilted coats that took cues from sleeping bags—the collection was quite polished. Here's another good example: The silk jacquard of a matching bustier top and skirt was an aerial view of mountains that they pulled from Google Earth, but looked like it could've been crushed velvet. The Velcro closure on the wrap skirt kept the tech-y couture motif going.

Riffing on house classics is a proven method for the ten-year-old brand. This season's take on their signature bustier baby-doll dress comes with a performance mesh shell and a bungee cord drawstring below the bust. It has starlet-on-the-rise written all over it. Their New York cohort, on the other hand, will be pleased to see their tweedy lady jackets in bright shades of coral and emerald green, as well as a handbag offering in iguana leather, a luxe new material for them that's pricier than python but not quite in crocodile territory.

-style​