Proenza Schouler S/S 2022 New York

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^I am also getting a lot of Phoebe's Céline. It's not awful, but it's unoriginal. Boring.
 
I still can't believe they've survived the pandemic. Their social media engagement has been dying and they have nothing to say in terms of aesthetic. The clothes can be found literally anywhere else, especially on the second-hand Céline market. The only things they're good at are namechecking and being pretentious.

I know it's predictable and boring at this point, but this collection is just a direct rip-off of Céline. I can see s/s 2015, s/s 2016 and feel the tribal s/s 2014 atmosphere. However, this time they didn't even try to cover it up, everything is so obvious that it hurts. Can we just make a petition to ban them on Vogue Runway? Because it's not even funny anymore.
 
Now i am most loking forward to see if Philo will move on, because these two seem to stuck in what she left behind.
 
the most unfun self serious girl at a dinner party and she goes on vacation and wears this stuff. she's never cool.
 
I don't really care for fringe fest, feels cartoonish most of the times used in collections. Amongst all those dresses, the patterned coats and the suits, particularly the closing one on Binx, were the strongest looks for me. Really good colors.
 
I was just thinking how the pandemic in the last two years has really changed everything, and now coming out of it most of us have totally different ideals, desires and directions we want to focus on. Sadly it looks like fashion has managed to avoid that change completely. Here we are in 2021, doing and watching shows again (did anyone really miss those anyway?) and the designers still present us collections endlessly emulating the Céline look from 2016, just like they did pre-covid. Just how tired and old does that feel?
 
I don't have the sort of encyclopedic knowledge of fashion on the level many people here do, to immediately see the influence (down to the year and season), so all I'm usually reacting to is the most surface-level "is this ugly or not?" "is this wearable or not?" "is this desirable or not?"

With that in mind, I like this. It's not GREAT, but I see quality construction, versatile pieces, and some beautiful color choices. It may very well be derivative, as almost all fashion is (and when designers own the inspiration, it's accepted as an homage or appreciation but when they don't, it's a rip-off, so maybe that's part of the issue, their lack of acknowledgement?) but at least it's not abjectly hideous, like much of what I see.
 
I loved Pheobe's S/S 2014 and F/W 2016 the first time around...5 years down the line it's only these two who aren't capable of seeing just how much the world has moved on.

I see @KINGofVERSAILLES point, it does look well made and harmoniously styled, much more elegant than what we've seen so far (and that's pretty much why they remain in business)...but it's still the fashion equivalent of necromancy, and that has a very unpleasant scent, fashion is like a fruit and all that.
 
KINGofVERSAILLES said:
It may very well be derivative, as almost all fashion is (and when designers own the inspiration, it's accepted as an homage or appreciation but when they don't, it's a rip-off, so maybe that's part of the issue, their lack of acknowledgement?) but at least it's not abjectly hideous, like much of what I see.
Click to expand...

I think the problem might be the complete lack of talent. When Phoebe copied, let's say, Geoffrey Beene's wrap coat for F/W 13, she was able to build a whole collection around that single silhouette without feeling derivative. What's more, it was a one time, she wasn't stuck with the same designer for years. I'm not even going to talk about the research, because obviously her team had gone way further than two clicks on Vogue Runway. With Proenza guys, they just pick looks from Céline (or Ghesquiere's Balenciaga in the past), put them on their moodboard, make some carbon copies and call it a day. It's a complete non-brainer. It's weird, because their s/s 17 collection was a ray of hope. But now, well, I'm curious whether they will move on alongside Phoebe. At this point they're literally a fashion parasite.
 
I mean the problem with the PS duo is the fact that they don't even have their own POV. 18 years in and they have nothing. Not a single signature look or aesthetic. What is Proenza Schouler legacy?

At some point, everybody copied, inspired or homage somebody else works. But when you copy someone else homeworks, put in a little effort and make it your own, it's really not that hard. The fact that I can already recognize the references without even open Vogue Runway is kinda sad for both of them. They want to be the new Céline so bad.They basically have single white female syndrome toward Phoebe.

This collection is inoffensive, nice, currently trendy. It's basically a Zara seasonal collection. Maybe that where they should be at the helm of Zara since that what they looking for their design teams.
 
For me, Proenza Schouler is worn people who tries to appear cool…Even if they are 3 years behind.
Give me Tom Ford everyday over this!

They never had an identity. Ever.
Even the few collections i liked from them were already derivative of other people.

I’m actually more offended by them than by Abloh, Williams or even Alexis Mabille.

No pov, no vision, nothing. A bunch of stuff…

Why would someone who already had the opportunity to buy all of this seasons ago would buy it from them. Even more when they don’t have the cool factor or the aura of Philo?

I’m just wasting my time commenting because I don’t care for their work tbh.
 
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